ridesrx
New member
Alright guys, here's the deal with aluminum. I've been in the body business for almost 20 years. And I've been a jobber salesman for 15 years. So I have a little expirence with painting.
First of all, Bulldog doesn't do anything for aluminum. Heck is doesn't even work on painted surfaces, which it was intended for. That bedliner is sticking because of it's own adhesion properties. Not the Bulldog. It's a waste of money.
First, Clean it with a good wax and grease remover. Wipe it on wet, don't let it dry, and wipe back off. This will lift and suspend the grease and other contaminants that are on the surface, and then by wiping it off, you'll pick up the contaminants in the towel. Don't use lacquer thinner for this.
Then sand with 320 grit or 400 grit, blow off with air, and re-clean using the above procedure. Tack it off using a new tack rag. Now your ready to apply a good self etching primer, or a wash primer to the alum. You don't need to cover the alum completely. Two light coats with a five or ten minute flash time is best.
Let that dry completely according to the directions, Then apply sealer and topcoat. The Yamahas I've had with a painted tunnel were a matte finish on my SRX and my SX600r. You can clear them if you wish, but they'll be shinyer than they were from the factory. Or use a matte clear.
Now a urethane clear will be plenty flexible for aluminum. There are plenty of cars out on the road with alum panels on them. Not to mention semi trucks and airplanes. Not a problem with flexability or durability. It won't crack. Even without a flex agent.
You will definately see a difference between a painted surface and a powdercoated surface. Powdercoat is durable, but looks heavy and has a grapefruit like texture. Not a finish I'd like on my machine, but to each his own.
The most important thing to remember is get it clean and free from grease and oil. Then get that etch primer on it. If you don't, it won't last. I could go on , but I'm running out of room.
First of all, Bulldog doesn't do anything for aluminum. Heck is doesn't even work on painted surfaces, which it was intended for. That bedliner is sticking because of it's own adhesion properties. Not the Bulldog. It's a waste of money.
First, Clean it with a good wax and grease remover. Wipe it on wet, don't let it dry, and wipe back off. This will lift and suspend the grease and other contaminants that are on the surface, and then by wiping it off, you'll pick up the contaminants in the towel. Don't use lacquer thinner for this.
Then sand with 320 grit or 400 grit, blow off with air, and re-clean using the above procedure. Tack it off using a new tack rag. Now your ready to apply a good self etching primer, or a wash primer to the alum. You don't need to cover the alum completely. Two light coats with a five or ten minute flash time is best.
Let that dry completely according to the directions, Then apply sealer and topcoat. The Yamahas I've had with a painted tunnel were a matte finish on my SRX and my SX600r. You can clear them if you wish, but they'll be shinyer than they were from the factory. Or use a matte clear.
Now a urethane clear will be plenty flexible for aluminum. There are plenty of cars out on the road with alum panels on them. Not to mention semi trucks and airplanes. Not a problem with flexability or durability. It won't crack. Even without a flex agent.
You will definately see a difference between a painted surface and a powdercoated surface. Powdercoat is durable, but looks heavy and has a grapefruit like texture. Not a finish I'd like on my machine, but to each his own.
The most important thing to remember is get it clean and free from grease and oil. Then get that etch primer on it. If you don't, it won't last. I could go on , but I'm running out of room.
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