What caused this?

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brownmecha

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Jun 23, 2006
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01 SXR 700 I can't figure out why these two rows of cogs (I think thats what they're called) are chewed up! I don't see anthing rubbing, chipped, worn, etc. that would cause this. Anyone have a track for sale?
 

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They look fine I checked them allready. I don't know if there has been any symptoms in the past, I just purchase this sled and have never ridden it. I checked it over, but the exterior, seat, etc. was in such good shape I only inspected the outside of the track (which is decent). Learned my lesson, no preaching! :bash: :bash:
 
my guess is it was hitting something that got messed up on the suspension. they probably eventualy fixe the cause. you might want to ask whoever sold it to you. I'd sugest not getting emotional when you call em, just act like you wan to know what went wrong.
 
I,ve never ridden the sled, so I personally can't say it does'nt ratchet. I,ve spoke to the previous owner (which isn't the original) about this problem allready. He's never touched a thing, or had a problem with it, he states. I have another pic that may show a problem (looks like its missing a set of wheels) but you tell me.
 

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A cross shaft and idler wheel assembly appears to be missing. It is possible that a previous failure may have caused the track damage. That may be why it is removed.

I would try to find a camoplast track new or used that fits your budget and riding style / conditions. There are many good options with newer tracks that are great upgrades from stock.

I would also try to find that cross shaft with wheels. I might even have one of those if I can find it.
 
I see you have adjustable rods. If the rods are extended too far the skid geometry will go incorrect – resulting in either a very tight or very slack track – at a point.

If you have nothing to do – remove both the front and rear shock springs. Not the shocks. Set the sled up on some wood horses so that the suspension is free to move.

Push the skid thru its travel. This will show any problems with suspension geometry with those adjustable things on you have.

What is that chain for?

P.S.

Just had a close look at the picture – I would have a real close look at the drive.

The fact that the idler wheels are missing may indicate he left the stubs on or backwards and they ate the cogs off.

Does the track spin OK? Take the belt off to test.
 
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I've rechecked everything, still can't find a problem. I think the track spins ok considering I have two rows of bad cogs! A couple of the wheels have some play, not what I would call sloppy or anything. The top inner wheels look kinda rough, but no play. I grabbed the driver and shook in all directions(track off the ground), it was tight. A couple other issues I have (I believe there unrelated but better mention) 1 The secondary clutch has a 1/4 inch play horizontally on the shaft (bolt is tight/shaft has no play). 2 The brake rotor seems to have excessive rotational play. 3 The chain seems to have too much play. A manual would be nice to have so I can figure out if these are issues or not. My nearest dealer is 30 min. away, has nothing in stock, and will only order if you come prepay! If anyone has a new or used one for sale I'm interested. Ding, if you have that wheel assembly I'm intersted. Need a track to!
 
brownmecha said:
1 The secondary clutch has a 1/4 inch play horizontally on the shaft (bolt is tight/shaft has no play).
Click to expand...

This is normal on these sleds. You should confirm the alignment to make sure it's in 'spec' but this should not be an issue.


2 The brake rotor seems to have excessive rotational play.
Click to expand...

Rotor is keyed to the jackshaft so if there is play.....have a closer look and make sure the hub is rotating seperate from the shaft.

3 The chain seems to have too much play.
Click to expand...

Sleds with reverse have what will feel like excessive chain play because of the reverse gearing set-up. If you have reverse.....
 
secondary will have play, the chain has an adjuster towards the front of the chain case , loosen the lock nut, finger tighten, reset lock nut, DONE!
 
Check ebay for manuals, there are usually a couple for sale. I wouldn't say they're cheap but not list price either. Ronnies http://216.37.204.202/yamaha_oem/yamahasnow.asp is good place for parts. Even if you don't buy from them you get good detailed drawings, part numbers and pricing. Check TY's classifieds for good use parts. I've had nothing but good experiences buying used parts from TY members. Good lluck and enjoy fixing up you new sled. Remember it's the journey not the destination that has the most to offer.
 
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your extra rotational play is caused by a worn key that locks the brake hub onto the jackshaft. had this same problem on my srx. the key takes a pounding because when you lock up the track during hard braking that key takes alot of the force as it is what holds the brake disc from rotating on the jackshaft wich is connected to your secondary. if you replace it you'll find it'll be pretty badly grooved on one side. doesn't look like much when you hold it up to a new key but it can translate into more than an inch of rotational play measured at the outer edge of the brake disc.
 
Thanks for all the help. I ordered a Clymer's manual from Borders books today. That should help things.
 
the wear spot in the middle of the track suggests the track was run loose or the cross shaft broke and was run for some distance.use some jv weld on your key way to weld it in place on your shaft just make shure the exsess amount after you place it is wiped off.than slide the rotor on to keep it in place while it drys.
 
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