I have always'd used a string from center of the front pivit. Scribed a line for both locations. Dropped the center 1/2 the distance than the rear. Never binded???
n2oiroc said:
Mine is a 121" do you have to drop the center pivot point then the rear, also do you set the long steel ruler on the very front mount and drill two holes since mine is a 3 bolt no-action? Thanks
Kinger drop the center hole first, about half of what you are dropping the rear. Then use n20 method of keeping the holes the right distance apart. Go off of the center hole when making the template bar. Maxdlx
Do you need to add drop down plates to both the center and rear or just the rear?
Just the rear. The center is several inch up in the tunnel. If you drop it that far your sled would look like a pulling tracker and drive like sh*t.
I wouldnt drop it more then 1/2 to 3/4" in the center and 1 to 1-1/2" in the rear. It feels tipsy to me otherwise.
That setup works good for maxdlx, but when I ride his sled it feels tipsy to me. But he has it set up for him...Paul is about 50lbs heavier then me?? Was alot worse I am sure with the high rise boss seat.
The last sled I jacked like that was a exciter 2. Same rear suspension (3 point) and it just didnt seam like it made much difference???
I wouldnt drop it more then 1/2 to 3/4" in the center and 1 to 1-1/2" in the rear. It feels tipsy to me otherwise.
That setup works good for maxdlx, but when I ride his sled it feels tipsy to me. But he has it set up for him...Paul is about 50lbs heavier then me?? Was alot worse I am sure with the high rise boss seat.
The last sled I jacked like that was a exciter 2. Same rear suspension (3 point) and it just didnt seam like it made much difference???
50 lbs, your to nice, try like 100 lbs easy. LOL
n2oiroc
New member
i use the front hole, but either one should work in theory. heck, mark it from both and see if it matches!maxdlx said:
Will do, last question did you use the CB perf plates or just get some alum stock and cut one out?
The cb perf plates are made so that you don't have to cut your rear shaft and bushings down. With just flat stock you lose the 1/8 inch on both sides, thus you must cut the shaft 1/4 inch, or flex the tunnel out that far. Maxdlx
n2oiroc
New member
i used the rx1 plates and rear shaft. not a direct bolt on, but they work good and are very sturdy.kinger said:
Viper_Jim
New member
n2oiroc said:
Where can you buy them from? I can't seem to find them online anywhere.....thanks
cb perf they are a sponsor of this site. www.cbperformanceparts.com they aren't shown you just call them and order them 847-344-1457
Viper_Jim
New member
well that explains why I couldn't find them...lol....do any other online dealers sell them>?
n2oiroc
New member
the rx1 brackets and shaft are avaliable from any yamaha dealer or richmotorsports. the cb ones will work just as good and you dont have to go through the trouble of pressing the shaft off.Viper_Jim said:
Mtn perf sells a set, but you need to cut the shaft and spacers for theres. Maxdlx
Viper_Jim
New member
yea, I'd say the cb performance ones sound a lot better to me.....so are they a direct bolt on and nothing else??