SRXSPEC need your advice!!

nosguy

nosguy

New member
Joined
Mar 20, 2006
Messages
6
Age
45
Location
Ruthven, Ontario
Hi Allen, its me Nelson, I'm the guy from Canada that bought your Heel Clicker grass drag set-up for my 2000 SRX 700. This is what you sent me and told me to do.

40-10 Heel clickers with engagement notch
Red and silver spring.
46-41 advant-edge helix
silver secondary spring
133.8 main jets
#50 pilots
19/40 gearing

I ran the heel clicker fully loaded (4 gram bolt with 3 washers on tip, 3.3 gram bolt with 3 washers in middle and 2.3 gram bolt with 6 washers in the heel---64 grams total weight) with the red spring, 70' on the secondary, fuel screws 1 1/2 turns out. Sled ran great, does not bog out of the hole but my best pass (500' grass) was 6.451et @ 72mph 1.657 60' . Sled was running around 8600rpm minimum. I know the et is slow for an srx but I'm pretty sure there was not enough weight in Heel clickers.
My next pass (nothing changed in clutching) with Nitrous was 5.58 et @ 84mph 1.575 60'. This was with the nitrous system activating at 1.6 seconds into the run. Not sure what rpm's the sled was running during this pass, but I would thing it would be near 10000.

I'm trying to get this sled to run in the 4's with nitrous. I know it's making the power to do so, but I need clutch help!!
The heel clickers are nice but I fear there is not enough weight to them, and I can't add any more weight to them. What should I do? I am considering buy the 60 gram base weight Super Tips and using those because I can add alot of weight to them. What do you think? If you think I should buy Super Tips, will everything else you sent me (helix/springs/gearing etc.) still work the Super Tips? If not I already have these parts in my garage

Bender 51-37 Helix
Bender orange Primary spring
Variety of sims 4/8/12mm

Can you recommend a set-up for me using the parts I have? Also I have a matched set of 20-40 gears from a 1998 SRX. Do you think these will be better? The 19-40 gears seem to low for the mph I'm trying to reach.

Some more info on my sled
145 lbs rider
front end lowered and tied down
fra in the stiffest position
front spring tightened to the max
rear sping loosened with 1" of thread showing
limiter straps all the way up
transfer rods tightend so that there is no weight transfer
speed track with 192 chisels

Thanks again!!
 
Without knowing what your rpm's are through the whole run it is tough to tell you what to do. Your secondary spring setting seems kind of soft as well. 64 grams is more than enough weight in a stock SRX for grass dragging. Now with the NOS I have no idea what you will need for clutching because we have never tuned with NOS. Need more information to help you.

RPM's at:
Engagement?
100' out?
250' out?
400' out?
500' finish?

Primary Temp?

Secondary Temp?

Which clutch has more heat in it? Heat will tell you where to start tuning as well.

My guess is you are spinning and overshifting. You say you have no transfer in the transfer rods as well? Are you running an 8CH belt? K&N air filters? With the NOS you will definitely need to gear up.

Your 60' time is really killing you. Start working there and gradually move forward. A playback tach is a very nice item to have as well.
 
Last edited:
1-Was the sled sluggish?

2-If it was sluggish, where was it sluggish?

3-What was wrong with the rpms?

4-Where were the rpms wrong? (what distance, etc)

5-Was the performance good in the bottom end but lacked in the top end or vice versa?

6-Did the rpms fall off on the top end?

7-Did the rpms climb from the start to full shift?

8-Did the rpms be excessive during the whole run?

9-Did the rpms hunt going higher and lower?

10-Was the engine slow to rev?

11-What kind of temperature did the clutches produce? Primary temp? Secondary temp?

12-Did you check your secondary temperature and primary temperature on the sheave faces?

13-Was the belt deflection set properly?

14-Did you run the recommended belt?
 
Well I kinda see a couple problems there with what your doing, first off you cant shim the transfer rods tight, it will NEVER, ever hook up that way, no yamaha will, it has to transfer some of the weight onto the rear skid in order to hook the track into the dirt and keep the ski's about 2-3 inchs off the grass. You can change the clutch set up a 100 times and a incorrect rear suspension will make for a slow sled as per your 60ft times. Your spinning ALOT>, when you spin alot the clutch's overshift, then its like starting out in 3rd gear in a stick shift car from a red light. It will take the engine a long time to recover to correct powerband(rpm).
I would leave the clutching alone, and make sure you only run the red spring. Work on the rear skidframe, you will see your best gains there. You need to reduce your 60 ft times by 2-3 tenths. One thing you can do is leave your spring set up alone and then play with the front limiter straps and the rear transfer rod gap, I used to stack up shims on the BOTTOM side of the rods to get it where I wanted it, this also sucks down the rear suspension and helps to keep the track flat to the ground, you dont want it to look like a rocking chair, when sleds sitting on garage floor if the rear idlers have a 3-4 inch gap under them to the floor theres where you need to start working on it.
Lastly, without knowing what rpm the tach reads when your on the gas/NOS, no one could even guess as to what weight youd need, thats the most vital information you can have, get your suspension working then post a reading of the tach, when you take off(what rpm), then at about 100ft out(what rpm, this will tell you if its overshifting)and mid track and then finish, you have to keep notes.
 
The sled was engaging at 5500rpm. Seemed strong out of the hole then going flat mid to top end(with out nos). With the nitrous again strong out of the hole, realy flat mid and top end. Sled revs quick to 8600 or so rpm (with out nos), belt deflection was set so that the track creeps when off the ground, I run 8DN blet.

I will adjust the transfer rods so that there is weight transfer. Right now the rear idlers sit about 3" off the ground.

I have a VDO on the way.

Do you think I should get the Super Tips because of the added weight needed for the nitrous? If so, do you recommend leaving the secondary helix/spring combo the same for a good starting point? Is there a certain primary spring I should use with Super Tips?
 
Try this with everything else in the sled the same without the NOS after you work on your suspension.

Heel: 2.3 gram bolt & 5 washers
Mid: 0
Tip: 4 gram bolt with 3 washers

I don't remember putting the weight in the middle hole, but we always just ran heel and tip weight in our stocker.

On the Super Tips you'll have to experiment. I'm sure you can use that secondary spring & helix, but you will have to adjust the primary spring possibly. The weights are adjustable enough that you would probably be able to use everything from the existing setup though, but without actually trying it I can't say for sure.
 
Thanks Allen I will try working on the suspension and taking weight out of middle of the Heel Clickers. Once I get my Vdo tach, I will have a better clue as to what's going on. You said I might have to adjust the primary spring if I was to use Super Tips. Do you mean changing the primary spring?

mrviper700, thanks for your input. I appreciate every piece of advice I get.
 
You may have to change the primary spring to get your engagement where you want it. With the amount of weight you will need to run for the NOS you will definitely need to get a notched set of weights as well.
 
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