Hi guys!
Last year I traded my RX-1 for a cheaper SRX, it`s converted to 136" with 2" lugs so it`s suppost to be great it powder, I love the way the sled handles, but whenever I hit powder snow it starts to hesitate, not rewing over ca. 6000rpm.
I had a thread going on this issue last season, I was told to mount an exhaust deflector and that this probably would be the solution to my problem. It was not.
I also installed a pre-filter, no difference.
Also when riding on one ski, making a left turn, it runs wierd and rpm sinks after a few seconds, down to a little over 6000rpm.
It`s probably like 3,5months before we`ll start riding, but I want to fix this before the season, I got so frustrated last season when I had to turn around and go home when my friend on his RS Vector MTN and his brother on a 94 V-Max continued without any problems what so ever.
What could be causing this bogging/hesitation/drop of rpm when hitting powder snow?.
(I`m desperat)
a) snow coming into the hood, making engine suck steam ?.
b) hood vents blocked due to snow build up, restricted air flow ?.
c) snow coming intot he hood, melting to water, which then makes the spark go to earth somewhere?.
At the end of the seasion I tried put tape over all the hood vents, but at that time the snow was so hard that it wouldn`t hesitate anyway.
Since it ran OK with all hood wents blocked, I guess snow build up shouldn`t make it run any worse then tape would?.
Here`s a pic of her, I love her soo much but I want her to run like she should.
10points to the one who comes with a hint to what it might be
.
Joakim,
Norway
Last year I traded my RX-1 for a cheaper SRX, it`s converted to 136" with 2" lugs so it`s suppost to be great it powder, I love the way the sled handles, but whenever I hit powder snow it starts to hesitate, not rewing over ca. 6000rpm.
I had a thread going on this issue last season, I was told to mount an exhaust deflector and that this probably would be the solution to my problem. It was not.
I also installed a pre-filter, no difference.
Also when riding on one ski, making a left turn, it runs wierd and rpm sinks after a few seconds, down to a little over 6000rpm.
It`s probably like 3,5months before we`ll start riding, but I want to fix this before the season, I got so frustrated last season when I had to turn around and go home when my friend on his RS Vector MTN and his brother on a 94 V-Max continued without any problems what so ever.
What could be causing this bogging/hesitation/drop of rpm when hitting powder snow?.
(I`m desperat)
a) snow coming into the hood, making engine suck steam ?.
b) hood vents blocked due to snow build up, restricted air flow ?.
c) snow coming intot he hood, melting to water, which then makes the spark go to earth somewhere?.
At the end of the seasion I tried put tape over all the hood vents, but at that time the snow was so hard that it wouldn`t hesitate anyway.
Since it ran OK with all hood wents blocked, I guess snow build up shouldn`t make it run any worse then tape would?.
Here`s a pic of her, I love her soo much but I want her to run like she should.
10points to the one who comes with a hint to what it might be
.Joakim,
Norway
TopGunnSrx
New member
Might want to invest in an exhaust deflector. My srx does the same thing a few times in the powder goes away if you carve on the left side right after it plugs up. It does suck when your starting to get a good carve going and the sled just looses power.
I think its the exhaust getting plugged up
Woops didnt see you had a deflector already, must of missed that
Srry about that
I think its the exhaust getting plugged up
Woops didnt see you had a deflector already, must of missed that
Srry about that
Last edited:
The only two things that I can think of are what your already installed. How long of a deflector did you use? If its just sticking out 1-2" it may not be enough.
I think with the tripple pipes on the SRX even though they merge at the end the exhaust outlet can be thought of as like 3 one clyinder exhausts and each by selves are not enough to keep it clear, where as a v-max with all clyinders combined can keep the exhaust way clear even in powder. I have no idea if this is true in fact I just made it up, but my vote would be to get the biggest deflector you could on there without interfereing with anything else. Good Luck!
I think with the tripple pipes on the SRX even though they merge at the end the exhaust outlet can be thought of as like 3 one clyinder exhausts and each by selves are not enough to keep it clear, where as a v-max with all clyinders combined can keep the exhaust way clear even in powder. I have no idea if this is true in fact I just made it up, but my vote would be to get the biggest deflector you could on there without interfereing with anything else. Good Luck!
Do you get snow over the hood, which gets onto the primary/secondary? Could that cause some issues?
1-wet clutches, shifting out slipping and then bog the motor. Roller clutch or buttons(check buttons for wear)
2-check floats in carbs, seems maybe its hanging up as you lean from one side to the other.
3-does it bog when theres no powdery snow? how was it at the end of the year?
Just some ideas...CP
2-check floats in carbs, seems maybe its hanging up as you lean from one side to the other.
3-does it bog when theres no powdery snow? how was it at the end of the year?
Just some ideas...CP
xt700
New member
- Joined
- Jan 27, 2006
- Messages
- 262
how about gearing ? maybe the longer track and higher lugs are just loding up the engine too much. I went 136 with 1 1/4 ripsaw last season and took a tooth of the top never tried it stock so dont know if thers a difference but mine works great. youll probably have to reclutch to lower the revs a little. anyway hope you get her floating for this season. good luck
Pat
Pat
You have to check the length of the snow deflector, is it designed to fully plow the snow to the sides when riding on the exhaust side? You've got holes in your dashboard which is good, but what isn't good is that you lack the inner workings (innmat) of the airbox, making the sucked in air lose speed and momentum. Also you should replace those "grills" over your holes with gauge pod filters (round) and then remove the pre filter. You should also check the tunnel for a hole at the end, making it spray snow into the belly. It did happen me on my 600. Hope this can put you in the right direction
Hi guys ! Thanks so much for all the tips everyone, I really appreciate it ! .
Here is a picture of the exhaust deflector:
I don`t know but I thought it was big enough?. The bigger it is, the more likely it will hit something and get bent.. .
Another thing I noticed is that the previous owner cut out a little plastic in the front:
Will it bog/drop rpm if the clutches get wet and the belt slips?.
The "bog" I get when carving to the left isn`t exactly the same as I get in the powder snow, just like it`s to different issues. But, when carving in powder, it`s not unlikely that the snow hits the clutches, so I guess it`s possible that the carving-rpm-drop problems could be caused by this, however that problem is only annoying, not a "must fix" like the general powder bogging problem.
I haven`t checked the floats, but I will take the carbs off and check them, but if they hang up when carving I guess there`s little I can do to it?. Check float height and adjust it?.
It doesn`t bog when there`s no powder.
I doubt that it`s related to the gearing since the stock 9 teeth drive couldn`t be used with the 2" lugs , so 7 teeth wheels was installed.
I don`t know if the gearing in the chaincase is changed.
The topspeed is around 130km/h, measured on GPS, a little higher on the speedo.
So you think I should put the "inner workings" back into the airbox?. (was removed by previous owner for some reasion).
I had the secondary clutch off in the end of the season due to a fried belt that went into 10000 pieces and fastened around the clutch, the wear buttons looked fine.
The rollers and main bushing in primary also seems fine.
Does the SRX have less exhaust pressure out of the silencer then other sleds?.
Thanks so much for all the replies, I`m so happy with them.
Joakim.
.Here is a picture of the exhaust deflector:
I don`t know but I thought it was big enough?. The bigger it is, the more likely it will hit something and get bent.. .
Another thing I noticed is that the previous owner cut out a little plastic in the front:
Will it bog/drop rpm if the clutches get wet and the belt slips?.
The "bog" I get when carving to the left isn`t exactly the same as I get in the powder snow, just like it`s to different issues. But, when carving in powder, it`s not unlikely that the snow hits the clutches, so I guess it`s possible that the carving-rpm-drop problems could be caused by this, however that problem is only annoying, not a "must fix" like the general powder bogging problem.
I haven`t checked the floats, but I will take the carbs off and check them, but if they hang up when carving I guess there`s little I can do to it?. Check float height and adjust it?.
It doesn`t bog when there`s no powder.
I doubt that it`s related to the gearing since the stock 9 teeth drive couldn`t be used with the 2" lugs , so 7 teeth wheels was installed.
I don`t know if the gearing in the chaincase is changed.
The topspeed is around 130km/h, measured on GPS, a little higher on the speedo.
So you think I should put the "inner workings" back into the airbox?. (was removed by previous owner for some reasion).
I had the secondary clutch off in the end of the season due to a fried belt that went into 10000 pieces and fastened around the clutch, the wear buttons looked fine.
The rollers and main bushing in primary also seems fine.
Does the SRX have less exhaust pressure out of the silencer then other sleds?.
Thanks so much for all the replies, I`m so happy with them
.Joakim.
Yes, try to put back in the inner workings and see what happens. I also see that the gap between the deflector and the exhaust outlet is waaay to wide, allowing plenty of snow between the deflector and the outlet. Try looking at a 2000 or newer mountainmax, it's much much closer.
xt700
New member
- Joined
- Jan 27, 2006
- Messages
- 262
when the clutches get wet and belt slips the revs go higher.
Pat
Pat
I don't think it's the clutches, I know the bogging and it's motor related. When I waterskipped with my old srx the rpm would slowly go down when the clutches got wetter. The bog is like the sled dies and then comes back to life, it chokes.
I thought my exhaust deflector was oversized allready!. It comes from a mountain max I think, got it from Rich. I modified it a little, made it wider.
Is it possible that it can be caused by wet sparkplug wires / snow hitting them and making the spark go to ground before it reaches the plug?.
Or is it most likely lack of air?.
Maybe I should try to run the sled on with the belt in the air, and then try to restrict the airflow and see how the engine reacts and if it runs like it does when I hit powder, I know what happens. (or what`s causing it).
Does it sound stupid?.
I`ve heard about cold air kits, what`s up with that?.
Oh btw thanks again for the replies!
Is it possible that it can be caused by wet sparkplug wires / snow hitting them and making the spark go to ground before it reaches the plug?.
Or is it most likely lack of air?.
Maybe I should try to run the sled on with the belt in the air, and then try to restrict the airflow and see how the engine reacts and if it runs like it does when I hit powder, I know what happens. (or what`s causing it).
Does it sound stupid?.
I`ve heard about cold air kits, what`s up with that?.
Oh btw thanks again for the replies!
I think if the snow hit the sparkplug wires and redirected the spark, it would say kablowwwff! or something, I think it would surely short circuit.
Try that thing with the track in the air. MOve the deflector closer. A cold air kit makes your air intake similar to those of mountainmaxes.
Most likely lack of air, or getting it out. Most likely getting it out
Try that thing with the track in the air. MOve the deflector closer. A cold air kit makes your air intake similar to those of mountainmaxes.
Most likely lack of air, or getting it out. Most likely getting it out
TopGunnSrx
New member
Now on the deflector is there any chance you could maybe put it covering the hole 1/4 of the way? Or will that restrict flow to much?
After the rpm's drop do they rise slightly like the clutching is overshifting from the powder like having too steep of a helix.Or is it acting like a fouled plug where the cylinder's cutting out.
SRXtrafast
New member
Check your gearing. For the MSRX700 [1999] it should be 39/21 which is 1.857 then check your clutching for maximum shift rpm @ 8500,cover any necessary hood vents and finally change your plug caps. Keep it simple. 
SRXtreme
New member
That is exactly what you need to do, move your deflector so it covers the exhaust outlet about 1/2 way.
Bender made a cold air kit that worked on the SRX's for deep snow use, it seemed to work well. But looking at your cowl you already have the holes so all you really need is to make a seal so the top of the airbox seals to the cowl. Also cover the holes with some prefilter material. Put the shelf back in the airbox if it was removed, but leave out the vertical dividers. Check your jetting when you have the carbs off, looking at the bellypan looks like it has been running fairly rich..................SRXtreme
Hi guys !
Thanks so much for all the replies !!.
When the RPM drops it sounds more like a fouled plug then clutch overshift. If I let go of the throttle and put the ski back on the ground (when carving) , it only takes a few seconds before it`s back to normal, so I don`t think it`s clutch problems. Ofcourse, the sheaves get hot and water will become "steam" fast and go away, but I just don`t think that`s my problem.
So you think I should put the deflector further back so that it covers 1/4 to 1/2 of the outlet?. Hope I wount restrict it that way, hehe.
I will remove the chain cover and take a look at the gearing, however it can`t have anything to do with the bogging, but it`s nice to just take a look inside it and change the oil. (It can`t be under "heavy" load since I`m only getting 130km/h).
Oh, can I cover all the hood vents without doing any harm to the engine?. Overheating?. (ofcourse it`s not necessary when the snow is hard and packed, but when it`s powder, there should be enough cooling from the radiators in the tunnel?.
(cover them in powder, remove covers when snow is packed)
It`s think it runs rich yes, fouled plug nr. 3 two times, but as long as the number of fouled plugs doesn`t make me broke, I`m happy, rather stay on the rich side then on the lean side. (or?).
The plan:
remove carbs and check float levels,
jetting (just for my own wiseness)
put the shelf back in the airbox
remove dividers if not removed from before
modify the deflector, moving it further back somehow (make it wider/lower?)
replace spark plug caps
make a seal on under the holes in the dash/against the air filter (how do I do that?)
cover the holes on the surface with some pre filter stuff
When I plan to run the sled with the belt in the air, I will try to restrict the exhaust and see how it runs, and also video tape everything so that you can see.
Goodnight fellows
Thanks so much for all the replies !!.
When the RPM drops it sounds more like a fouled plug then clutch overshift. If I let go of the throttle and put the ski back on the ground (when carving) , it only takes a few seconds before it`s back to normal, so I don`t think it`s clutch problems. Ofcourse, the sheaves get hot and water will become "steam" fast and go away, but I just don`t think that`s my problem.
So you think I should put the deflector further back so that it covers 1/4 to 1/2 of the outlet?. Hope I wount restrict it that way, hehe
.I will remove the chain cover and take a look at the gearing, however it can`t have anything to do with the bogging, but it`s nice to just take a look inside it and change the oil. (It can`t be under "heavy" load since I`m only getting 130km/h).
Oh, can I cover all the hood vents without doing any harm to the engine?. Overheating?. (ofcourse it`s not necessary when the snow is hard and packed, but when it`s powder, there should be enough cooling from the radiators in the tunnel?.
(cover them in powder, remove covers when snow is packed)
It`s think it runs rich yes, fouled plug nr. 3 two times, but as long as the number of fouled plugs doesn`t make me broke, I`m happy, rather stay on the rich side then on the lean side
. (or?).The plan:
remove carbs and check float levels,
jetting (just for my own wiseness)
put the shelf back in the airbox
remove dividers if not removed from before
modify the deflector, moving it further back somehow (make it wider/lower?)
replace spark plug caps
make a seal on under the holes in the dash/against the air filter (how do I do that?)
cover the holes on the surface with some pre filter stuff
When I plan to run the sled with the belt in the air, I will try to restrict the exhaust and see how it runs, and also video tape everything so that you can see.
Goodnight fellows
Hi guys !
The other day I thought came to my mind, instead of making a new deflector, make a new outlet! ?:
My idea is to weld a piece of bent tube onto the excisting outlet, so that the exhaust leaves the pipe in the "driving" direction, snow wouldn`t build up (atleast it shouldn`t) and as long as it doesn`t restrict the exhaust flow, I think it seems like a good idea.. ?. Or am I wrong?.
I know it sounds silly to weld something onto the exhaust since it will have to come off in order to remove the silencer, but I`m only thinking of spot welding it on so it wount require much grinding to remove it.
Maybe I can weld a wider shield onto the underside of the tube to create free space for the exhaust.. .
What do you think ?.
The other day I thought came to my mind, instead of making a new deflector, make a new outlet! ?:
My idea is to weld a piece of bent tube onto the excisting outlet, so that the exhaust leaves the pipe in the "driving" direction, snow wouldn`t build up (atleast it shouldn`t) and as long as it doesn`t restrict the exhaust flow, I think it seems like a good idea.. ?. Or am I wrong?.
I know it sounds silly to weld something onto the exhaust since it will have to come off in order to remove the silencer, but I`m only thinking of spot welding it on so it wount require much grinding to remove it.
Maybe I can weld a wider shield onto the underside of the tube to create free space for the exhaust.. .
What do you think ?.
Viper-Rules!
New member
Bog Issue
Your spark plug caps may need replacing, the wires should be okay. I would inspect the wires and change the caps. I have had sleds that would bog for a bit and come back to life before. Actually the spark plug was starting to foul and then it would clean back out again. Related to poor spark from a shorted cap. You maybe getting it wet and there is a slight surface crack some-where. Just an idea, good luck.
Your spark plug caps may need replacing, the wires should be okay. I would inspect the wires and change the caps. I have had sleds that would bog for a bit and come back to life before. Actually the spark plug was starting to foul and then it would clean back out again. Related to poor spark from a shorted cap. You maybe getting it wet and there is a slight surface crack some-where. Just an idea, good luck.