Hi all
I am going to change tracks on my 02 Viper. Has anyone figured out a way to do it without taking the chaincase off? What about those split collar things for the drivers?
Thanks in advance!
I am going to change tracks on my 02 Viper. Has anyone figured out a way to do it without taking the chaincase off? What about those split collar things for the drivers?
Thanks in advance!
xsivhp
Active member
Taking the chaincase off isn't that big of a deal - one time save that you'll learn after doing it is that there is a drain plug for the chaincase inside the tunnel. No that big of a deal, really. Good luck.
You must remove the chaincase / unbolt it and slide it out of the way in order to manipualte the shaft out. Once you do it the 1st time is is not to hard to do at all.Homer said:
The split collars for the drivers are only needed on the 98's if I am not mistaken, they help prevent the drivers from shifting during use and have nothing to do track removal.
Hope this helps!
must take it off. along with the speedo housing oppostie the chaincase. it's not bad at all but the parking brake is a B*#@%.
I did a track swap on my 01 sxr. I had to take the chaincase and the speedo housing off to remove the drive shaft. At the end of the reassembly I just left the parking brake off. I is a pain to get back on. I used the brake once and it froze closed on the caliper. I have never used it since then. Getting the snap rings off the shaft is a little tight if you do not take the side panels off.
you don't need to remove the e brake. Just slide it out till the cable is tight, and that should be enough. Maxdlx
I agree with maxdlx, I've never taken the e-brake apart. It will slide off with the chain case at the same time.
Yeah pulling the chaincase is quite easy on these sleds (easier than other brands anyway). Good info in the Tech Pages on this site.
Putting the Parking Brake (e-brake above) back together is one of the most frustrating things on the Yamaha's. This coming from someone who has taken several Pro-Action chassis sleds completely (and I mean completely) apart and put them back together. Maybe someone else has come up with an easier way to put the Parking Brake back together, but I always leave it together if I can.
Putting the Parking Brake (e-brake above) back together is one of the most frustrating things on the Yamaha's. This coming from someone who has taken several Pro-Action chassis sleds completely (and I mean completely) apart and put them back together. Maybe someone else has come up with an easier way to put the Parking Brake back together, but I always leave it together if I can.
yamaholic22
Active member
You absolutely DO NOT need to take the parking brake apart to change the track. Just leave it attached to the chaincase and pull the brake rotor off ALONG WITH the chaincase. WAY faster than pulling that parking brake apart.
So if I understand completely, leave the parking brake alone. What about the coolant reserviour?
n2oiroc
New member
and dont forget about the keyway on the rotor! (after getting it together and noticing the rotor spinning independantly of the jackshaft! doh!)yamaholic22 said:
OZ
yes but...
I noticed on the SRX jackshaft there is a groove for a C clip just after the brake disc...I don't remember taking a C clip off...can anyone confirm this?
You don't have to take it off.
There should be a C-clip and a washer on there.
Check out the drawing here http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/parts/home.aspx
Check out the drawing here http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/parts/home.aspx
Ding you may be right, but never remember having to take a c-clip off. I've done this many of many of times. But it has been awhile!
No c-clip
The c-slip and washer is on the back side of the disc brake. No need to take them off.
Madmatt
The c-slip and washer is on the back side of the disc brake. No need to take them off.
Madmatt
Do yourself a favor and check the clutch side jackshaft and driveshaft bearings. Better yet, replace them if you have the cash.
While i had it apart, I did replace the clutch side driveshaft & jackshaft bearings. 6000 miles on the sled I figured it was about time. The driveshaft bearing probably would not have lasted the season. The jackshaft bearing was aok. The chaincase bearings were like new. Incidentally, how are the chaincase bearings lubricated? The open side of the bearing is on the left. How does the chaincase oil get in there?
Thanks all for the advise. I did not remove the parking brake like some of you suggested. Made the job 1/2 as hard. I've got the new track on. I've got to replace some of the bearings in the skid frame and am going to have the shocks rebuilt so I haven't put it all back together yet.
One more question - the large idler wheels on top of the skid frame appear to be frozen on the cross shaft. Am I missing something? Do they just slide on and off that shaft? I beat on them a a little with a rubber hammer. I did not want to get too aggressive until I asked.
Thanks all for the advise. I did not remove the parking brake like some of you suggested. Made the job 1/2 as hard. I've got the new track on. I've got to replace some of the bearings in the skid frame and am going to have the shocks rebuilt so I haven't put it all back together yet.
One more question - the large idler wheels on top of the skid frame appear to be frozen on the cross shaft. Am I missing something? Do they just slide on and off that shaft? I beat on them a a little with a rubber hammer. I did not want to get too aggressive until I asked.
Oil that seeps into the bearing from the backside is less likely to carry metal shavings than the side open to the chain side. This logic has served Yamaha very well in my experience. Look at your chaincase oil when you change it. You really don't want all that in your bearings. Metal shavings can be much worse than dirt.