No spark 80 enticer. Help please

8

80enticeryami

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Joined
May 30, 2006
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Location
Kent, WA
I was getting the enticer out of storage and got it running rebuilt carbs, fuel, lines ect. Ran great. went to check out the rear tailight cause it was out and it died.

Checked plugs they were foulded, changed them, cranked over, no go. Very intermintent spark like 1 out 20 pulls there was spark now none at all. Checked all kill switches and key switch OK. Also checked the ground and cleaned them.

So my thoughts are

1.CDI box dont know how to check? I don't have access to a manual for test procedures.

2. Stator Also dont know how to check anyone know?


Yamaha online doesnt have a part # for the cdi box Anyone know if a 1984 enticer cdi would work with the 1980 :dunno:
 
It sounds like the ignition coil under the flywheel. Same thing happened to me once.You can check the resistance with an ohm meter to know for sure ( between the orange wire and coil ground). They made two different ones, a Hitachi (spec .135-.165 ohms) or Toyodenso ( .108-.132 ohms).
BTW, these specs are for a 300 enticer
 
If you know a bit about electrics we can get you the specs to test for, or if you have a buddy that knows electrics, we can send him the specs and he can help you out.

I would also check the resistance of the secondary coil, and the plug wires.

Let us know what you find for resistance.
 
Ding said:
If you know a bit about electrics we can get you the specs to test for, or if you have a buddy that knows electrics, we can send him the specs and he can help you out.

I would also check the resistance of the secondary coil, and the plug wires.

Let us know what you find for resistance.
Click to expand...



I have a basic knowledge of electronics. Ohms, continuity, volts, amps ect and have a multimeter.. I will try the test on the stator today. please let me know what else I can test without buying more parts
 
300 enticer and 340 share a lot of the same parts. the enticer motor was pretty much unchanged for the entire run of the sled other than the ducting for airflow so the # you get off of the good running sled should be the same as the hurt one.
 
I would go ahead and pull the magneto rotor off and get ready to replace the internal coil, replace the lighting coil as well when your there, this was a very common problem back in the days of these sleds. check with a meter against the reading from a service manual, but 9 out of 10 times its always the internal coil that quits on these.
 
Most of the time if you have intermittent spark, it due to corroded (rusted) internal coil and flywheel magnets. If you plan on ridding this machine some or its for kids, I would replace them like Mrviper 700 says. I would save you the trouble of tearing it down for a second time. Good luck, Hope that helped. Brad
 
Changed the cdi out today and it fired up second pull, nice blue spark.. Would it still be wise to take the internal coil apart and at least clean it with some contact cleaner?... never done it before basically just take the recoil cover off, then the outer coil and windings? any tricks or tips
 
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