I didn't like the Viper rear skid, SO........

mono is great with the better spring in it and setup right, i really like it compared to the m10 myself
 

Sno XR.. What year sled is your skid out of.
I notice the ZL type & the ZR have a little differant front swing arms
Interceptor700, Got any pics of the finished project?

ZL
b8_1_b.JPG

ZR
6a_1.JPG
 
Sno Xr.

One is a 99 ZL and the other is a 2001 ZR800.
I don't own either right now, those are ones I'm looking at for sale
 
I personally would go for the ZR skid, the ZL is probalbly sprung and valved a little softer for more of a comfort ride. If your reasonably aggressive the ZR skid might be your best option. I also have heard that the ACT shocks on the newer skids(00 and up) are a pretty dependable shock.
Neither skid has the factory installed transfer blocks. Some like them , some dont!
 
maine, if that 25mm setting is correct we must have had confusion on my part or yours. the measurement for this is 16-18mm on tight bushings, smaller on warn out bushings.

the more gap you have the more dive(and roll)in a corner, the more gap you have also makes your sled compress further on accelleration. this makes the sled hit the bumps with less travel and at a higher shock speed on the fra. this will cause a harsher ride with less travel to absorb the bump with.

the other problem with this is that if you started with a large measurement, centered your gaps, you will end up with too high a ride height, and not enough sit in.

if you adjusted the rods to 16mm with everything staying the same, you will find the upper gap disapear and the preload on the shock set too tight. you will need to lower the sled a tad.
hope ive helped, if the above measurement was a typo then maybe i havent.

post any questions.
 
Scott, I will go check the sled. I'm going off memory because the sled is in storage. I'm pretty sure ?????

Interceptor, So your front arm is like the ZR one I have posted.
Not really a full pivot shaft, just some though bolts?
 
if your going with the cat skid, i would recommend the newer ones that are coupled, or get the blocks. they ride and corner a lot better. i ride with a guy that has a 2000 zr 600 efi (uncoupled) and it doesnt ride much, if at all better than my viper and it cant keep the skis on the ground in a corner to save its life!
 
I will agree that you will sacrafice some cornering ability, but it wont be as bad as the Cat sled with the same skid. My Viper with the Cat skid(without coupler blocks) does not transfer nearly as bad as my 00 Cat Sno-pro.
As far as "ride", I have to disagree. An uncoupled skid will handle studder and larger bumps better than a coupled skid.
Im speeking from my own experience, others may have had different results.
 
SRX MAINE said:
How do you tell that? Where is the coupling mechanism located or what does it look like
Click to expand...
There will be small plastic blocks on the inside of the rails behind the rear sissor arm, back near the rear Idler wheels.
 
They limit the amount of travel the rear arm has, when it hits the blocks, it transfers some of the force then to the front arm. I had a 2001 ZR800 without them, and an 03-900 with them. I rode the 900 for one month, then removed them, and never put them back on. You can adjust the skid so you are not wheel-standing all the time. And you can have oh so much fun too when you want. I think thew scissor arms on the coupled skids were a different part #, and stronger to resist bending when they hit the blocks, so you could have issues adding blocks to an 01 skid, or you could buy the stronger pieces. I'm sure I'll get ripped for this, :whine: but IMO the Cat skid is way better than any Yammie skid, excluding the Mono, as I have not ridden one. Once you know how to set them up, which is easier than a Pro-action BTW, you can make them ride whatever way you want to.
PS if you ride hard do NOT buy the ZL skid. Lots of spring options for the ZR skid, and they are reasonably priced.
BTW N2oiroc, no offence, your buddy doesn't know how to set up a Cat sled right. Tell him this winter to tighten up his limiter straps by 4 threads on each side, and increase his ski spring pressure by three turns, and then take it back out! I bet he's :WayCool:
 
Last edited:
SRXer said:
They limit the amount of travel the rear arm has, when it hits the blocks, it transfers some of the force then to the front arm. I had a 2001 ZR800 without them, and an 03-900 with them. I rode the 900 for one month, then removed them, and never put them back on. You can adjust the skid so you are not wheel-standing all the time. And you can have oh so much fun too when you want. I think thew scissor arms on the coupled skids were a different part #, and stronger to resist bending when they hit the blocks, so you could have issues adding blocks to an 01 skid, or you could buy the stronger pieces. I'm sure I'll get ripped for this, :whine: but IMO the Cat skid is way better than any Yammie skid, excluding the Mono, as I have not ridden one. Once you know how to set them up, which is easier than a Pro-action BTW, you can make them ride whatever way you want to.
PS if you ride hard do NOT buy the ZL skid. Lots of spring options for the ZR skid, and they are reasonably priced.
BTW N2oiroc, no offence, your buddy doesn't know how to set up a Cat sled right. Tell him this winter to tighten up his limiter straps by 4 threads on each side, and increase his ski spring pressure by three turns, and then take it back out! I bet he's :WayCool:
Click to expand...

no offence taken. i agree he needs to tune it better, but i still dont think its as good as a sc10 III or a poo edge skid for trail riding.
 
I'm probably a little biased, cause I rode them so many years, I know how to dial them in the way I wanted. But seriously, tell your bud to try what I suggested, only takes 2 or 3 minutes tops. It'll help. ;)!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top