I finally pulled the bottom (crank case) out of my sled. The jugs have been off since the spring. I've got parts coming and I want to start putting it back together. What should I check on my crank case now that it's out of the sled and sitting on my work bench? When I clean it up, basically using brake cleaner, is there anything I shouldn't get it on? When I pulled the jugs, I wasn't smart enough to drain the coolant, so there is some coolant down in the crank case. How do I get that out? Also any other tips would be great.
daman
New member
dnale said:
found some jugs finaly dnale???
yes, finally....
Yeah, I decided to go with the 97 jugs and reed cages. I actually have a manual for the 97 motor too. I should have the other jug, reeds, and cages probably tomorrow from another ty-er. Then I just have to complete my order to rich for pistons, rings, and gaskets. But I want to check out the bottom before I order so I don't have to make a couple orders.
Just by looking at the crankcase with a flash light it looks really clean inside. I'm hoping that's a good sign. I imagine I can used compressed air to help dry out the bottom right? Any other tips?
Yeah, I decided to go with the 97 jugs and reed cages. I actually have a manual for the 97 motor too. I should have the other jug, reeds, and cages probably tomorrow from another ty-er. Then I just have to complete my order to rich for pistons, rings, and gaskets. But I want to check out the bottom before I order so I don't have to make a couple orders.
Just by looking at the crankcase with a flash light it looks really clean inside. I'm hoping that's a good sign. I imagine I can used compressed air to help dry out the bottom right? Any other tips?
daman
New member
dnale said:
yup i would, spin the crank make shure everything spins freely,
check crank seals,etc.,make shure the oil delivery holes are open
no crud in them
so your running twin '97 jugs, i thought that would work yup.
going with OEM pistons i hope???
Yeah, I don't like the price, but Rich does give us a good deal. I almost fell into buying some pistons and then I read the fine print. They were not actually OEM but manufactured to OEM specs. No thanks on a savings of only $20 total.
I didn't spend too much time on the bottom once I put it on the bench, but it seems smooth. Nothing looks like it got hot. I now know why the front of my sled is such a pig, those crank cases are heavy. Especially when you are trying to yank it out when you're inside an enclosed trailer with the other sled still there and the hood isn't off cause I couldn't get around the trailer....
Re-install will be with the sled out of the trailer for sure.
I didn't spend too much time on the bottom once I put it on the bench, but it seems smooth. Nothing looks like it got hot. I now know why the front of my sled is such a pig, those crank cases are heavy. Especially when you are trying to yank it out when you're inside an enclosed trailer with the other sled still there and the hood isn't off cause I couldn't get around the trailer....
Re-install will be with the sled out of the trailer for sure.
daman
New member
Just take your time check all your clearancess and torqs,, do the job right
and only once.
and only once.
Thanks. I'm sure I'll be having alot more questions when I get into.
daman
New member
dnale said:
LOL...
aSRX600guy
New member
dnale said:
OEM spec means they will actualy fit in the engine. I don't blame you for looking elsware.
make sure the there isn't any slop in the bearings. I had an old cat, the rod bearing felt smooth, but wobbled just a little. that engine lasted me less than 5 miles of easy riding before loosing the needle bearings.
I'll try to maybe get into it tonight. Perhaps I'll take a few photos.
daman
New member
dnale said:
Photos are always good
Take things apart, cause I found small pieces of ring centre pin-(the pin that holds the rings from rotating) in one of the centre bearing. I used a dental syringe with brake kleen to wash out all the bearings and rods and all oil inlets and oil pickup on the bottom case, then dried out everything well and the lubed everything up with 2 cycle oil ( don't let things sit around to long without oiling= rust)and set it in the bottom case and spun it over. If then everything feels go than close it up. ready for the topend....my two centsdnale said:
sandmanmike1
New member
Make sure there are no dingleberries.
I'll make sure mike to check for the rag hangers....
daman
New member
From the pics it looks good,jetting looks good too
jus blow that anti-freez out good.
how many miles on this mill???
jus blow that anti-freez out good.
how many miles on this mill???
That motor has about 9000 miles or so on it. Maybe 8500. Those pistons are also with about 800-1000 miles of running piped... I knew it was time to re-ring...I tried pushing it a little too far. Goes to show me....
daman
New member
dnale said:
9k,i wonder if you should put seals in it??
tell me more....what's involved....Seals in the bottom end I assume right? Those go at the ends? How tough? $$?