Installing SRX Rear Exchanger on Viper

E

ExpertXViper

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I went to install my exchanger and try to push it up flush with my tunnel. I noticed that wasnt happening, its hitting my tunnel protectors. I'm gunna end up cutting them with the dremel. But just wondering if anyone else has had this problem trying to install one.
 
I did mine last fall and in the instructions it said to trim the tunnel protectors to allow the exchanger to fit properly.
 
Jimmie D: From the looks of the exchanger the bleed screw is near the same spot as the crossover tube, but wont know till I mount it.

But I just bought the part, didnt come with instructions or nothing thats why I asked.
 
Yeah...like JimmyD said...you'll have to cut the protectors..and drill a new hole..or at least enlarge the ole one..I did mine last year...If your running studs...ya might wanna consider EXchange Protectors aswell...I knarled mine a little...and picking up the protectors on the weekend...

good luck...
 
Yea I'm gunna be running a 9818 non studded. Gunna try that track out this year, without studs. If I dont like it without studs, gunna go with smaller drivers and 144 studs with protectors next year. But thanks for the help.
 
Remove the protectors

One thought is to just remove the tunnel protectors all together. It's easier then trimming them in place. Just knock the center of the rivets down with a center punch and cut those soft aluminum rivets off with dykes. If you decide to stud (later as you say) then just trim the protectors on a chop saw approprietly, drop the rear two suspension bolts and rivet them back in.

Madmatt
 
Using a flat bar to put gap between protector and tunnel allows exchanger to fit. Don't need much and easier than cutting.
 
I used a dremel with a cut off wheel and it zipped through those plastic peices with no effort. Also I had to cut very close to the rear rivet holding on the plastic trim guards but it was good enough I didn't have to remove the rivet and replace it further towards the front of the sled. I also had to drill a new hole for the bleed valve. I think it was a 7/8" hole if I remember right.
 
to run the 9818 you will want to remove the tunnel protectors and the front exchanger protectors or they will rub. i have heard some guys say to just let them wear, but i just removed them because it was tight
 
the reason for the discrepency on the hole cutting is that the srx heat exchangers used in a viper will need a hole drilled, the viper update heat exchanger has the bleed in the stock location.
 
nodoo_s said:
to run the 9818 you will want to remove the tunnel protectors and the front exchanger protectors or they will rub. i have heard some guys say to just let them wear, but i just removed them because it was tight
Click to expand...

Just wondering how the 9818 would be any different than installing a 1.25 rip saw. I heard those bolt right in with no problem. Why would that track be any different. Just wondering cause I was told it bolt right in.
 
You are both right!

The 9818 or the Rip Saw will bolt right in but with the tunnel protectors in there it WILL rub. It is too tight. Will it work? Yes. The Viper S was the only Viper that came from the factory with a 1 1/4 track and it had NO heat exchanger protectors and I don't think it had any tunnel protectors either. BETHEVIPER makes a good point but I thought the SRX heat exchanger bleed hole lined up too. I have installed about 5 rear heat exchangers in vipers. Some I had to drill a hole and some I didn't. I guess I lost track. If you want, go ahead and leave the protectors in and let it rub.....it won't hurt anything and it will work........but it won't be right. If it were me, I'd take them all out and let it run more efficiently. If you decide you want to stud it later then you can install put the front, tunnel and rear heat exchanger protectors when you do the job. You already stated that you would change the drivers if you stud so it will be all apart again anyway. Right? It's personal prefrence and it's your sled...... Do it the way you think it should be done. Good luck ;)!

Madmatt
 
Well I a person that likes to do it once and do it the right way, so the protectors will be coming out. Thanks to you both for letting me know about that issue, cause I didnt have a clue.
 
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good choice because i also have a viper that i put a ripsaw on and it was real tight as well and you had to run it tight which made your sliders wear faster, not to mention i think you get less ice buildup without tunnell protectors
 
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