Heres some rough pics of a way you could do it with one piece of sheet metal or sheet alluminum. You would have to come up with your own dimensions for the rearand front height, but I think it would be simple enough with a metal break(bender) and metal sheer.Good luck.
You could make a mock-up pattern out of cardboard to make sure your angles work
You could make a mock-up pattern out of cardboard to make sure your angles work
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Bearit
New member
OK guys this is what I did with my viper,place seat upside down and trace with a piece of paper the inside diameter,you will see were you need to stop on the front of the seat,cut out template, trace onto 1/4 inch plywood then cut the piece and check fitment and trim were you need to then use that piece and cut a second one,then screw front of plywood together,spread out rear of plywood about 2 1/2 to 3 inches with a small piece of wood and use spray foam from the front to the back,let it expand and dry,(let it dry for 24 hrs--Trust me) cut and sand of excess around the edges of the wood (If you get air bubbles on the edges just get some sillicone and fill in the holes)then pre fit and make ajustments to get a good fit, then get some black vinyl and a strip of thin foam and staple down around the edges,then place under seat and mark holes on the plywood were the bolts go through the rear of the seat on the top and the bottom and drill,then get bolt 3 inches longer .I did it on my viper 2 years ago and it works great,and it is very easy and cheap to do.
Steve
Steve
Bearit said:
Steve, Did you round the corners off on the plywood or keep it square? this sounds similar to my Pink Board idea (spray foam), it provides enough strength while keeping the weight down.
Please post some pics of your sled...
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ExpertXViper
New member
Sno-Xr: My idea is taking 1 3/4 aluminum round stock cuttin it anywhere from 2 1/2-3 1/2 inchs long tapping through the whole thing for the size of the bolt that comes through the tunnel. Take a peice of flat stock with 2 holes in it that sits over the tunnel bolts, so it acts as a support bracket and wont put so much pressure on where the 2 seat risers will go. Screw the 2 alum. peices onto the tunnel and buy metric bolts to hold the seat down. Put the seat on and see how it looks. If it looks good like that a may leave it or a may fab up a cover peice outta sheet aluminum. Cause this way all I have to do it bend everything into shape, polish it and rivet it to the tunnel. No WELDING involved. Thats what I have so far, but I'm working on gettin my pipes and skid on first cause thats my mean priority and more time consuming. Cause shes motorless right now.
-This was from another thread that I posted on, but I decreased size of the seat riser and added support bracket, compared to the other thread this was on. Still coming up with ideas. But theres lots of ways to do this without spending $250 bucks. I like fabing stuff up thats why I'm goin with whatever I come up with and whatever looks best.
-This was from another thread that I posted on, but I decreased size of the seat riser and added support bracket, compared to the other thread this was on. Still coming up with ideas. But theres lots of ways to do this without spending $250 bucks. I like fabing stuff up thats why I'm goin with whatever I come up with and whatever looks best.
craigsandrx7
New member
I made a 4" riser out of thin wall steel tube for my Mountain Max. With the bottom (plastic seat base) of the seat raised up 4", it rubbed on my leg. The seat base needed to be narrower for stand up riding comfort.
I next made a taller seat out of foam and a board. It bolted down in the back and held in the front great. The increased seat hight was way better than the older MM seat. I tappered the seat foam up on the sides....like a BOSS Seat.
IMO...the raised seat is not the best way...I'll post pictures of both later.
I next made a taller seat out of foam and a board. It bolted down in the back and held in the front great. The increased seat hight was way better than the older MM seat. I tappered the seat foam up on the sides....like a BOSS Seat.
IMO...the raised seat is not the best way...I'll post pictures of both later.
ExpertXViper
New member
It all depends on personal liking, cause like I said before I'm goin for the seating position thats on the Revs, I'm not looking for the flattop seat look. And I beleive 4 inchs is too high for a seat riser cause I cut a piece of 2x4 to 4inch and stood it up on end and it looked way to high.
Bearit
New member
that looks, but it's hard to see much detail. What kind of spray foam did you use between the plywood? I would think the typical $4 can of gap spray foam would be too soft. Thanks for the pics
Bearit
New member
Not sure what brand of spray foam but it was hard as a rock after 24hrs and it is sandwiched between the plywood, and i have never had a problem with it,it may not be the best setup but it has worked for me.
steve
steve
SWEDE
New member
Bearit, how do you like those simmons skis?i have an m-10 also on my sled and have thought about them for the wider stance, Whats your thoughts overall and any major negatives with this setup?
Bearit
New member
Hi Swede
The simmons skis are great,no darting at all,and they seem to ride on the deep snow alot better than stock,and you can really stick it in the corners on trails,depending how you have your rear skid setup.
Steve
The simmons skis are great,no darting at all,and they seem to ride on the deep snow alot better than stock,and you can really stick it in the corners on trails,depending how you have your rear skid setup.
Steve
