Help on Removing First 2 skid bolts

ReaperSRX

ReaperSRX

Member
Joined
May 26, 2003
Messages
589
Age
52
Location
New Liskeard, Ontario
I had dropped skid, by only removing the last 2 sets of bolts, to remove shocks and transfer rods, now that i have shock back to re-install i thought it would be easier to just take the whole skid out, but i can't seem to get both bolts out, first one is easy but second keeps turning with shaft any trick to this.............Reaper
 

yes, put the other bolt back in and snug up , then hit the other side with a impact and it will pull out. After the stuck bolt is removed hit the other side with a impace and that will come out too.
 
What I did before I got my air tools was use a 3/8 drive connection hooked up to a regular drill. Worked fast enouph to spin the bolt off without turning the shaft.
 
heres a poor mans trick

Get the one side loose, put an open end wrench behind it, and retighten it. Then loosen the other side, reloosen the first side and you are loose. If the one with the wrench behind it won't come loose, just pull the wrench out. You might be able to just take the rear 4 mounting bolts out, and pull the back of the sled up with a block and takle type setup.. Thats how i did it. If you are putting long travel viper shocks in a sx chasis, it will be a struggle to get the rear mounts back in. Make sure you have the rear axel as loose as possible, and the transfer rod bottom bolts really loose. Maxdlx
 
Your puting the shocks in a srx right?This is the easiest way i found to do mine.Lift the back of sled up or lay the sled on its side.Loosen up the limiter straps.Loosen up the transfer rod bolts on the end.Put the center shock in first.You will have to rock the skid up and down to get the bolt holes to line up.Put the rear shock in next.Put the top bolt in first then the fra bolt.You might have to rock the skid some again.Tighten up your transfer rod bolts then the limiters.This worked easier for me than wrestling the whole skid back in.
 
reaper, atlas is absolutley correct on this one, swapping shocks is way easy on the pro action skid. i just finished long traveling the front and rear of my 01 srx ( i put revalved viper shocks and springs in) all i did was loosen the limiters all the way up loosened the transfer rods till the lower bolt was almost out. (which it sounds like you are adding adj transfer rods) i put in the rear (center) shock and spring first. to get this accomplished i had the wife lift the snowflap (while the sled was suspended by the rear bumper) and push down & forward on the track area above the rear axle to articulate the suspension to accomodate the longer shock/spring assy. then i went to the front shock, the upper bolt was a pain but if you put a floor jack under the front portion of the skid to remove the pressure all you do is just unscrew the bolt out of the eye v.s trying to force push it & it will all drop out. lower the jack to articulate the front portion of the skid to accept the longer shock and bolt her up. took about and hour to do both with only hand tools and a spare hand to push on the suspension and hold a wrench when needed. i had trouble putting my adj transfer rods too. (i actually opted not to do it) from what i hear dropping the skid reinstalling the bolt on one axle side, using a piece of wood so you dont mess up the bolt head pound the living hell out of the bolt while supporting the rear upper idler with a BFH, will pop the rod & wheel off one side then slide the axle out and remove the other side. and reassemble. sounds real easy but them damn things are on there tight. hope this helps. atlas, thanks for the tool and the help, i'll get the tool back to you this week. ski
 
Hey Ski. You say you opted not to change the transfer rods. Did you get extensions or what? I was under the impression that if you don't lengthen them, you don't get any more travel since the dropout is the same.
 
I had already removed shaft and stock transer rods right after both shocks were removed, are saying i will have a really hard time getting back together, should i put shocks in first or try to get shaft and transfer rods in first, i am waiting for new adj rods to come (about a week), so this info would be really helpfull..........Reaper
 
01-03, pioneer tells you you dont need adjustable rods to get the travel, when you do their "kit". ( shorter rod is more transfer anyway i believe) i could never get anyone to give me a straight answer on if i should get srx adj rods or sxR/viper rods that are set up for the 11.5" of travel. bouncing on it in the garage it has all the travel i want/need. time and testing will tell. reaper, as long as the transfer rods are loose those shocks will go in easy, it is so easy you'll wonder why you didnt do it along time ago. ski
 
ReaperSRX I think it would be a lot easier to put your new transfer rods on and bolt the idler shaft back in the tunnel then put the shocks in.They will go back in a lot easier than you think.

01srx+03rx1 By changing the bottom shim on the transfer rods from the stock 5mm to a 2.5mm will give you a little more drop out.I had Maxx perf rods on mine before i long traveled it.The Maxx rods are 1/4" longer than the stock rods.If i get off my sled when it comes back up there is still a small gap between bottom of transfer rod and the shim.If i lift up on the bumper the gap closes so i am gaining a little more travel but probuly not much.I set mine up similar to Pioneers kit.They use long travel shocks with the stock srx rear spring.It gives you more travel but sits close to stock with rider on it.The only thing i did diferant was use the Viper center spring instead of the 3.6 kg spring they use in their kit.If you go to thier site they have all the specs listed and you can order the proper 3.6 kg spring from them.Or save 10 bucks and get from Maxx perf.Heres the link to thier instructions http://www.pioneermotorsport.com/pp_00-02-SRX_long_travel_in.htm

skidooboy Does your front end sit higher now with the extensions?Mine looks like it does but maybe i got too much preload on my front shocks.Did you use the viper rear spring or the srx spring?
 
The place i got my shocks done here in Ontario is authorized Max dealer, he gave me instruction right from MaxPerformance, they advise to get their Quickrods or at least rods 7.5mm longer than stock, so i ordered a set from Advant-Edge with a set of Ohlin's long travel extension, a couple of guys up here have them and had no complaints, i looked up Pioneer's instructions and they are almost word for word, except for rods, they say change spacer....oh well, i think i'll go with new longer rods, i think they will still be better, at least they will look kewl.......... :roll: Reaper
 
atlas since mine had ohlins on it, the rear (center) spring is the same as the 02 original viper center spring so, it didnt matter which spring went in as they were the same weight. i do believe it sits higher up front but i didnt take a before and after measurement. to get the advantage edge extenders on the ohlins i had to split two nuts to put around the shaft holder to get more presure in the vise. when i send the tool i'll send those nuts along too, they made the difference in getting that shock eye off, thanks for the use of the tool again!!!! ski look how high it sits now
 
The springs are the same rating but the Viper spring is a lot longer.The ride height would be higher.With the srx spring it sits closer to stock ride height.How did your gaps come out on the transfer rods?Is the top gap larger now?Glad to help you out with the tool.I will probuly not have a use for it again but if anyone else on the board needs to use it let me know.Heres a pic of mine with the long travel.
 
Hey guys thanks for the info and advise, i have aslo ordered the Ohlin's longtravel collars, i see you both have installed, did you remove shocks right off sled, guy at advantage says you can do it without, i thought i figure out something rather than pay the $18 for tool, comments.....Atlas i would interested in borrowing tool but i bet you the shipping to up here would cost as much as tool..........Reaper
 
I dont know if you could do them on the sled or not.I took mine off and stuck them in a vise and heated with a propane torch.I think Skidooboy tried useing vise grips with no luck but maybe with the nuts he made up the vise grips might work.The tool is only maybe 1/2-3/4" long.I could toss it in a small envolpe and send it air mail letter post.Looks like it would cost $2 or less to send that way.Take 4-7 days.If i had to fill out customs stuff i could just say it was homemade and sending as a gift or something.
 
reaper... BUY THE TOOL!, or borrow atlas' there will be almost no way to get the shock eye off without hurting the shaft. take out the first set of bushings and seals in the top eye, and heat the shock eye low at the shock shaft to prevent wrecking the inner bushing and seal assy (not servicable) the locktite has to be heated to let it break free, and it has to be heated quite hot. be patient and work slowly. read the directions and follow them and you wont have a problem. keep us posted. atlas i used the long viper spring to get the added ride height, i actually like a sled that sits up higher, the loss in cornering would be minimal. with the spring preload settings and limiter strap settings from b-line my gaps are almost even (i was suprised) this was in street clothes, so when i put my gear and my tank bag on i'll bet it'll be near even on the gaps. right where i need to be. your sled looks good sitting up high like that. i could send the tool to reaper from here as well atlas, it hasnt went out yet. just tell me where it needs to go and i'll send it thata way. ski
 
I would be interested in tool, if you want pm me and and give you full details of where i live and work with ph numbers, and provide any other info to let you know i am not some loser who would not return tool, other thing how involved is it to remove shocks, bottom seems quite simple but up top is where i am not sure...........Reaper
 
On the insde of belly pan there is a rubber plug on each side.Pull the rubber plug out and right there is your upper shock bolt.Put a wrench on the nut and use a ratchet with a deepwell socket or extension to loosen the bolt from inside belly pan.On the right side the pipes might be in the way of that rubber plug.I had my cylinders off porting them at the same time i did my shocks so nothing was in the way.Theres a possability you may have to pull a pipe or two to get to the right side bolt unless you got small hands and can get in there.
 
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