Viper S Studding

Y

yamaham

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Joined
Dec 12, 2005
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35
Location
Southern Ontario
I have put a 1.25 Ripsaw simular to a Viper S on my 02 viper and would like to stud it. I noticed in a stud recommendation chart that I should use 1.375 studs but they do not recommend it on the Viper unless going to a smaller drive spocket? How are the guys with the Viper S sleds studding them or what do I need to do to have sufficient clearance on my sled? Will the 1.375 studs clear as is?
 
you need to buy 8 tooth drivers, tunnel protectors and front heat exchanger protectors. total cost should be under $100 if your smart about it.
 
You also need to re-gear and grind a couple of poles off of the speedo drive to coorect the speedo. (For it to be geared similar to stock.)
 
I believe you already have tunnel protectors on the 02 sled, If not add them. Changing to 8 tooth drivers will give you enough clearence. Some people have left their gearing stock while others have re-geared. I would say try it before re-gearing, I believe the only draw back is you will lose a couple of mph off the top, but you may be a little quicker out of the hole!
Some are running studs in the 1 1/4" tracks without changing to 8 tooth drivers, but its kinda risky. I am going to try it myself, but I will watch the front heat exchanger very carefully for any damage!
Good Luck
 
I think to run the studs without 8 tooth drivers you can't run exchanger protecters either .... that could be absolutely catastrophic. I don't think you'll get them in without 8 tooth drivers - it's really really tight in there. You'll also probably need to run your track a lot tighter than you would otherwise. Just my insight from what I've seen. :D
 
ok i read it quick and didnt realize you had an 02. you already have the tunnel and heat exchanger protectors, you just need the 8 tooth drivers. you can pick up a used set for $50. you can regear it if you want, but it really isnt needed unless you need every last mph on ice. leaving the gearing as it is it will be faster 0-90mph.
 
fischgutz said:
do the 03's come with the heat exchanger protectors stock?
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yes they do. You can easily see if they are still there or not (somebody might've removed them) by flipping the sled up on its side and looking for them mounted on the front of the front heat exchanger.
 
ExpertXViper said:
Mine are welded on, are they welded top and bottom? or just the bottom?
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You know honestly i dont remember, i may be confusing the two setups but i thought they were just welded on the bottom and had a pin in the top going into a hole in the top of the tunnel/frame. I may be thinking of the rivet-on style though.
 
Just wondering cause I was told to remove them for my 9818 non studded cause itll rub. Guess I'll find out when I install the Expert X
 
Yes that is true if you never plan on studding, then remove them if you are going to install a 1.25" track, as the 9818 is. No need for them if you are never planning on studding, and then you dont have to deal with the rubbing and all the friction that goes along with it.
 
It'll be the first year running this track verus the stock one with 144 1in studs. Gunna see how she performs with no studs, if I dont like it it'll get 144 1.375in studs next year. And I'll have to buy smaller drivers and remount all the xchanger protectors which is no biggy cause I have access to all sorts of welding equip.
 
yes you're right its definately not hard to put them back in if you decide you want to stud down the road. I'm betting you will like that 1.25" just fine without studs. If i didnt run lakes a lot i would take the studs out of the hacksaw in my srx, but they dont go to good on ice without them.
 
I had to cut off some of the lugs on my 1.25 ripsaw where the heat exchange protectors are as they rubbed quite a bit. I installed it at the end of the season and ran it without studs and got myself in trouble way toooooo many times. Would the 1.340 studs clear the heat exchanger without going to the smaller driver?
 
Technically i think they will clear the exchanger, but the clearance will be way too tight for comfort. Personally i would NOT stud a 1.25 inch track in a yamaha proaction chassis without going to 8 tooth drivers, not worth the risk. A torn up heat exchanger will end your day up north in a real hurry.
 
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