FuzzButt
New member
Hello,
Changing my track and while the skid is out I figure I'll replace what ever is worn. Well that list is really starting to grow. With 7900 miles nearly all the bushings are shot. Since Maxx had them as a kit (SRBLDA) was their number for all the bushings needed for my setup.
Anyone know of a "refresh" type kit from Yamaha that includes what is needed? I can order them all individually if I have to but would rather get a master package.
Seems I need for sure the W-arm's 4 for sure. I'll also need at least 1 of the 2 limit straps as it is looking rough.
So far it is coming apart quite easily. I think the rear shaft is a bit frozen up but that did not cause a problem in the removal. I am suprised on how heavy it is. I've had Polaris's Xtra12 out a few times on family members but the Proaction is almost as heavy.
Changing my track and while the skid is out I figure I'll replace what ever is worn. Well that list is really starting to grow. With 7900 miles nearly all the bushings are shot. Since Maxx had them as a kit (SRBLDA) was their number for all the bushings needed for my setup.
Anyone know of a "refresh" type kit from Yamaha that includes what is needed? I can order them all individually if I have to but would rather get a master package.
Seems I need for sure the W-arm's 4 for sure. I'll also need at least 1 of the 2 limit straps as it is looking rough.
So far it is coming apart quite easily. I think the rear shaft is a bit frozen up but that did not cause a problem in the removal. I am suprised on how heavy it is. I've had Polaris's Xtra12 out a few times on family members but the Proaction is almost as heavy.
NMMM700
New member
Mountain Performance sales a complete bushing kit for the rear pro-action suspension for $95.00. Here's a link: http://www.mountainperformance.com/yamaha_rear_suspension.htm
FuzzButt
New member
Thanks for the reply.
I forgot to look at the mountian sled sites. $95 is pretty steep.
From the inspection I just did I only have 3 that are in need of replacing. Guess all the greasing in the past works well. It was a real dirty job cleaning all the grease off the shafts and such. Took longer to go thru the skid than it did replacing the track.
Now all I need to do is place an order for a few bushings and the speedo bearing (might as well it is a bit loose)
I forgot to look at the mountian sled sites. $95 is pretty steep.
From the inspection I just did I only have 3 that are in need of replacing. Guess all the greasing in the past works well. It was a real dirty job cleaning all the grease off the shafts and such. Took longer to go thru the skid than it did replacing the track.
Now all I need to do is place an order for a few bushings and the speedo bearing (might as well it is a bit loose)
daman
New member
I just did my wifes '01 dlx this spring with all OEM stuff, no kit from
yammie had to buy each part,i think it took around $200 or so for
every thing.
but it shure works better now,glad i did it.....
yammie had to buy each part,i think it took around $200 or so for
every thing.
but it shure works better now,glad i did it.....
Actually I think the $95 is a good price. I replaced all of them in my skid last year and I am sure I spent more than that. Add to it the multiple trips to the dealer and the $95 isn't bad at all if you need more than a couple.
NMMM700
New member
I replaced all the bushings on my skid with the Mountain Performance kit and the kit contained OEM Yamaha bushings in their original packages. I priced the same bushings from my dealer and they added up to almost $200.00. The front W-arm bushings seem to wear out very fast so be sure to check those.
kysledneck
New member
Best change the bearings down by the speedo under the secondary & the jack shaft one too! & while you are at it do the chain case bearings also!
FuzzButt
New member
Ya I forgot to get the Speedo bearing when I ordered bearings. I replaced the bottom chain case bearing and all the seals but the other 2 look and feel great. There is no play and roll feel is like the new one. Those are some stout bearings.
As far as the W arm. The top bushings look great. The bottom wiggles even when it is bolted up so all of parts of that joint will be replaced. I might get the top anyway but the rest of them look like new minus a few rides.
Man I sure am going thru the grease. I need a second tube to complete the job since I cleaned out all of the old stuff. Odd how even with normal re-greasing the consistancy of the grease around the shafts is more like a peanut butter/sand mix.
I should mention that the $$ spent on an air chisel is worth it now that I used it pounding off the slides. So much easier then even the "cutting off" technique.
As far as the W arm. The top bushings look great. The bottom wiggles even when it is bolted up so all of parts of that joint will be replaced. I might get the top anyway but the rest of them look like new minus a few rides.
Man I sure am going thru the grease. I need a second tube to complete the job since I cleaned out all of the old stuff. Odd how even with normal re-greasing the consistancy of the grease around the shafts is more like a peanut butter/sand mix.
I should mention that the $$ spent on an air chisel is worth it now that I used it pounding off the slides. So much easier then even the "cutting off" technique.
sandmanmike1
New member
I use the Amsoil water resistant grease and like it alot. It seems to keep consistency much longer. Try it and I am sure you will like it. n You can always put in the Bender Re-action suspension.
Don't buy a bender reaction, support a TY sponsor, save a few more pounds, and get a CB perf mono conversion. Maxdlx
FuzzButt
New member
I'm not worried about weight. If I were maybe I'd diet first. If anything I'd like a replacement aluminum front from CB.
I use Mobil 1. Nice and red in color. Seems to work well enough. I don't sled under 40 below so that is not an issue.
I use Mobil 1. Nice and red in color. Seems to work well enough. I don't sled under 40 below so that is not an issue.