I'm in the process of stripping the paint off the tunnel of my SRX and noticed a few rivets are loose so I am going to replace them but am not sure if a regular aluminum rivet with a steel mandrel would be strong enough or should I buy steel ones to put back in?I allready have some aluminum w/aluminum mandrel ones but I dont know if they would stand up.Thanks
2ooosrx
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aluminum will hold up in most cases and ony cases of extreme vibration or pressure will aluminum not be the best choice. For the tunnel, you should be fine.
I really hate to disagree with anybody on these forums, especially one who knows their stuff like 2000srx.
So no offense dude.
Rivets come in a very wide range of quality and strength. There are many aluminum rivets that have very low shear and tensile strengths even some of those with steel mandrels, and in my opinion are not at all suitable for anywhere on a snowmobile let alone a structural part. Now that said, there are good aluminum rivets with steel mandrels such as 2000srx suggests. I personally don't use them for anything structural, but will use them to hold bag clips, or other accesories on.
Whichever rivets you are thinking of using, I would look them up to get the strength ratings for them. It is real easy to do as the charts are available online for most rivet companies.
Textron has actually purchased many of the rivet manufacturing companies.
You should find some help at www.rivetsinstock.com or www.rivet.com or www.hansonrivet.com or do a search online.
I personally like the Avex and Stavex rivets, or the Interlock rivets if even more strength is desired.
So no offense dude.
Rivets come in a very wide range of quality and strength. There are many aluminum rivets that have very low shear and tensile strengths even some of those with steel mandrels, and in my opinion are not at all suitable for anywhere on a snowmobile let alone a structural part. Now that said, there are good aluminum rivets with steel mandrels such as 2000srx suggests. I personally don't use them for anything structural, but will use them to hold bag clips, or other accesories on.
Whichever rivets you are thinking of using, I would look them up to get the strength ratings for them. It is real easy to do as the charts are available online for most rivet companies.
Textron has actually purchased many of the rivet manufacturing companies.
You should find some help at www.rivetsinstock.com or www.rivet.com or www.hansonrivet.com or do a search online.
I personally like the Avex and Stavex rivets, or the Interlock rivets if even more strength is desired.
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Thanks for the replies.If I do go with steel rivets will I have to get a heavy gun to pop them?All I have is a heavy duty hand held (regular ) rivet gun and I can forsee needing one of those long handled deals.
i sell the zink plated multigrip that come on yamaha sleds, 15c each plus 4.05 for shipping, any no you need.
and i do agree, aluminum rivots should only be used on the bellypan rivots. everything else on a sled should be avex/multigrip style or monobolt.
and i do agree, aluminum rivots should only be used on the bellypan rivots. everything else on a sled should be avex/multigrip style or monobolt.
Vmax Al
New member
I just bought some "Q-Rivets" from JayCee Sales (www.rivetsinstock.com) They are part numbers SSPQ-06-04 and SSPQ-06-06 with grip ranges of 1/8" to 1/4" and 1/4" to 3/8", both are 3/16" steel rivets with steel mandrels. I have used them for attaching the front cooler and protectors to the tunnel and for a tunnel extension.
I had to buy a minimum lot of 100 of each so I have some extra to sell to ya if interested.
I would sell them for $0.20 each plus shipping.
You definitely need a pneumatic riveter, I tried by hand with a riveter with 12" handles and it was a no-go.
I had to buy a minimum lot of 100 of each so I have some extra to sell to ya if interested.
I would sell them for $0.20 each plus shipping.
You definitely need a pneumatic riveter, I tried by hand with a riveter with 12" handles and it was a no-go.
