here is some help i found
i would redo this to make it a better article but no time, sleds to build, shop to run, kids to tend to, apartment to redo
also remember, the skid is what works in conjunction with your sway bar to keep your sled flat. when you tighten up your rear skid like i have done below, it not only rides better, it is like adding a rear sway bar.
when i do a skid over for me or friends, i use bearings, seals, collars and plastic washers from the rear shock. you can buy them from yamaha or rob them from junk shocks. you need two upper collars for the correct width.
to install them you will need to take up some slack in the holes. I use a feeler guage slid in with the bearing till i find the correct size. usually around .005 . I use this full width so it will hold the seals in as well.
Install everything dry and clean but use locktite so the bearing wont slide side to side and to take up any tiny spaces.
while you are doing this remove your skid. remove your w arm. buy new bushings because if you have any miles on it they are wore out.
drill and tap the top of the lower w arm mounts for 1/4 28 long straight grease fittings.
next cut a coffee can into strips as wide as the mount. Start with a piece 1in wide and install it in the hole. then install the bushings. then the collars. if the collars wont fit in then remove everything, cut some off the coffee can strip and reinstall. do this untill the collars fit tight. do the same with the upper bushings in the w arm as well.
use this trick to tighten up your lower transfer rod mounts too. these need a 90% grease fitting in them so you will have access.
when the skid is upside down inspect the condition of the lower shock mount. if it is cracked remove and reweld. when installing these I run a grinder over the end of the shaft, clean the rail good, mix up some jbweld and spread a thin layer over the ends of the shaft. quickly bolt the mount in and tighten lightly. let dry. then remove bolts locktite and tighten the crap out of it. what this does is fills in any imperfections between the rail and mount so that it will fit tighter with no gaps. this part is what keeps your skid square and in parallel as well as taking the twisting load from the front shock. it is very important this part fit as tight as it can.
when reinstalling everything us locktite. also to stop your w arm from breaking use no preload on spring once your limiters are set to where you want them. the spring should end up with little or no preasure as the limiters start to bring up.
i would redo this to make it a better article but no time, sleds to build, shop to run, kids to tend to, apartment to redo
also remember, the skid is what works in conjunction with your sway bar to keep your sled flat. when you tighten up your rear skid like i have done below, it not only rides better, it is like adding a rear sway bar.
when i do a skid over for me or friends, i use bearings, seals, collars and plastic washers from the rear shock. you can buy them from yamaha or rob them from junk shocks. you need two upper collars for the correct width.
to install them you will need to take up some slack in the holes. I use a feeler guage slid in with the bearing till i find the correct size. usually around .005 . I use this full width so it will hold the seals in as well.
Install everything dry and clean but use locktite so the bearing wont slide side to side and to take up any tiny spaces.
while you are doing this remove your skid. remove your w arm. buy new bushings because if you have any miles on it they are wore out.
drill and tap the top of the lower w arm mounts for 1/4 28 long straight grease fittings.
next cut a coffee can into strips as wide as the mount. Start with a piece 1in wide and install it in the hole. then install the bushings. then the collars. if the collars wont fit in then remove everything, cut some off the coffee can strip and reinstall. do this untill the collars fit tight. do the same with the upper bushings in the w arm as well.
use this trick to tighten up your lower transfer rod mounts too. these need a 90% grease fitting in them so you will have access.
when the skid is upside down inspect the condition of the lower shock mount. if it is cracked remove and reweld. when installing these I run a grinder over the end of the shaft, clean the rail good, mix up some jbweld and spread a thin layer over the ends of the shaft. quickly bolt the mount in and tighten lightly. let dry. then remove bolts locktite and tighten the crap out of it. what this does is fills in any imperfections between the rail and mount so that it will fit tighter with no gaps. this part is what keeps your skid square and in parallel as well as taking the twisting load from the front shock. it is very important this part fit as tight as it can.
when reinstalling everything us locktite. also to stop your w arm from breaking use no preload on spring once your limiters are set to where you want them. the spring should end up with little or no preasure as the limiters start to bring up.
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set the center shock spring very loose, rattling in the holders loose, set
your fra to the middle setting if your around 200lbs. then sit on the sled,
rock it around, then look at the gap, if it is too loose on the top, you
need to tighten the spring in the rear up some, remove it to do this, it is
easier,
keep doing this till the sled sits with the rear gaps equal or a little
tighter on the bottom, with a total gap from 16-18mm. short travel will be in the 12-14 range. the bigger the gaps, the looser the skid will feel and the worse the sled will handle.
also, do this with your limiters loose
when your rear height is set, tighten your limiters so that the front of the
track touches the ground when the rear is about 1-2in off the ground while
lifting it from the bumper.
some tweeking will be needed on the limiters on the trail, do yourself a
favor and buy a gear wrench and cut it in half, they work great for this
ill edit this later and add some missing thoughts, this will get you going
your fra to the middle setting if your around 200lbs. then sit on the sled,
rock it around, then look at the gap, if it is too loose on the top, you
need to tighten the spring in the rear up some, remove it to do this, it is
easier,
keep doing this till the sled sits with the rear gaps equal or a little
tighter on the bottom, with a total gap from 16-18mm. short travel will be in the 12-14 range. the bigger the gaps, the looser the skid will feel and the worse the sled will handle.
also, do this with your limiters loose
when your rear height is set, tighten your limiters so that the front of the
track touches the ground when the rear is about 1-2in off the ground while
lifting it from the bumper.
some tweeking will be needed on the limiters on the trail, do yourself a
favor and buy a gear wrench and cut it in half, they work great for this
ill edit this later and add some missing thoughts, this will get you going
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Junior
New member
stuck
i was going to stick it in the tech pages after i edited it a bit and added the missing stuff. cant seem to find the rest.
Junior
New member
s'all good, this is some awesome info, sure glad to have you around here Scott.
vipersledhead
New member
can you help with following question? or anyone?
Will a Warrior skid bolt directly into a 2003 RX1? My buddies RX1 needs a new track and he wants to hopefully pick up a used Warrior skid at Heydays if he can find one. If not what would you or anyone suggest for the skid extention kits on the market (complete) that would meet his needs? Thanks, Mick
Will a Warrior skid bolt directly into a 2003 RX1? My buddies RX1 needs a new track and he wants to hopefully pick up a used Warrior skid at Heydays if he can find one. If not what would you or anyone suggest for the skid extention kits on the market (complete) that would meet his needs? Thanks, Mick
I have a used warrior skid less shocks. if he doesn't find one I'd sell mine for $150 plus shipping it is in excellent shape. Maxdlx
skid is the same width. mounts bolt back a ways further. shocks are different and the side arms are longer.
vipersledhead
New member
Thanks for the info
He decided to go with tunnel extentions and a 15x136x1.5 track. Who could supply him with quality extentions and a "beaver tail" as he calls it?
He decided to go with tunnel extentions and a 15x136x1.5 track. Who could supply him with quality extentions and a "beaver tail" as he calls it?
progold
New member
BETHEVIPER I was reading your suspension tech and was reading the part for setting up rear shock and you say to set spring pressure until gaps are equal on both sides ,what gaps do you mean i am stuck on this part but the rest is awsome information some close ups of the coffee tin strips intallation would be great,thanks .
PROGOLD
PROGOLD
gaps always refer to the gaps on your transfer rods, either 50/50 or 60/40 top/bottom with you sitting on the sled.
progold
New member
Thanks great info,i have my skid out of the sled as we speak getting ready for snow and checking everyting out to make sure she`s ready for another season,trying some of your tighting tips will let tou know how everything goes .
PROGOLD
PROGOLD
progold
New member
Betheviper I Have My Rear Suspension Out And Started To Tighten It Up And Ran Into A Roadblock.i Started From The Front And Worked My Way Back To The Rear And Wanted To Take The Transfer Rods Apart But Where They Are Attached To The Top Shaft Were The Top Idler Wheels Are I Could Not Get Those Top Idler Wheels Off The Question I Have Is Are These Idler Wheels Pressed On Or Do I Have To Beat Them Off ,this Is Where I Am Stuck,help Please.
Progold
Progold
remove the stap ring, beat the wheel off the bearing, then remove the bearing from the shaft with a puller. make sure to install a bolt in the threads so the puller doesnt damage them.
iahacker
Member
set up
O.K. Scott, I didn't realize there was a thread going on skid set up before I PM'ed my questions. I'll work through your set up method and see what happens to address what I'm after from mine.
Here's a couple questions to clarify in your instructions:
1.) What about the factory set up measurements for the shock spring pre-loads? I'm talking aluminum body adjustable shocks...both in the skid and the ski shocks. Do these specs apply at all or forget about these and find your own?
2.) Does the "get rid of the lighter center shock spring" apply to all sleds?
I have center shock springs from an SRX, an SX, an SX-R and the real light one from the up-dated Viper shock. Which one is best to use? From your instructions, I assume the SRX spring?
3.) The front of the skid drops into bumps but, what about coming out of the bump? I'm talking washboard style 4 to 6" deep and about a sled length appart...like you see on lots of heavily traveled trails. How does the suspension act on these type of bumps?
Thanks for your help.
O.K. Scott, I didn't realize there was a thread going on skid set up before I PM'ed my questions. I'll work through your set up method and see what happens to address what I'm after from mine.
Here's a couple questions to clarify in your instructions:
1.) What about the factory set up measurements for the shock spring pre-loads? I'm talking aluminum body adjustable shocks...both in the skid and the ski shocks. Do these specs apply at all or forget about these and find your own?
2.) Does the "get rid of the lighter center shock spring" apply to all sleds?
I have center shock springs from an SRX, an SX, an SX-R and the real light one from the up-dated Viper shock. Which one is best to use? From your instructions, I assume the SRX spring?
3.) The front of the skid drops into bumps but, what about coming out of the bump? I'm talking washboard style 4 to 6" deep and about a sled length appart...like you see on lots of heavily traveled trails. How does the suspension act on these type of bumps?
Thanks for your help.
center shock spring goes like this,
light spring easier stearing, less traction, more bottoming
stiffer spring, harder stearing, better traction and less bottoming.
ventures,vmax, xtc sleds came with light springs, they turned easy but wouldnt hook up and didnt work well for agressive riding in bad conditions.
i like the sx/srx really stiff springs in my pro actions but they can break stuff in long travel so i dont recomend them. straight rate springs in the 2.5-3.0 rate range work best and dont break stuff. im not a fan of multi rate springs on the front shock, they work fine but need to be preloaded so that when the sled is sitting on the ground without you on it they the larger spring comes into play
light spring easier stearing, less traction, more bottoming
stiffer spring, harder stearing, better traction and less bottoming.
ventures,vmax, xtc sleds came with light springs, they turned easy but wouldnt hook up and didnt work well for agressive riding in bad conditions.
i like the sx/srx really stiff springs in my pro actions but they can break stuff in long travel so i dont recomend them. straight rate springs in the 2.5-3.0 rate range work best and dont break stuff. im not a fan of multi rate springs on the front shock, they work fine but need to be preloaded so that when the sled is sitting on the ground without you on it they the larger spring comes into play
when you say long travel is that what comes on newer sleds or is it something I can do to a 97-99 srx?
super1c
Super Moderator
Welcome to the site. In your profile add your sled and where your from, the mods will ask for it. Start a new post under the SRX tab for this. But do a search about long travel SRX and you can read for months. Guys do this all the time. Need viper shocks, transfer rods, limiter straps and flip your front shock brackets. That will long travel your sled. I dont have one, this is info from just reading about SRX's. Give the search a try. CCC
Woodrow
New member
Yamaha Suspension help
W
When you take the skid out, first thing you want to fix is the zircs. I ground out the yamaha welded in zircs and tig welded in 1/4-28 nuts. This will allow quick change of zircs when the fail.
W
When you take the skid out, first thing you want to fix is the zircs. I ground out the yamaha welded in zircs and tig welded in 1/4-28 nuts. This will allow quick change of zircs when the fail.