here is some help i found
i would redo this to make it a better article but no time, sleds to build, shop to run, kids to tend to, apartment to redo
also remember, the skid is what works in conjunction with your sway bar to keep your sled flat. when you tighten up your rear skid like i have done below, it not only rides better, it is like adding a rear sway bar.
when i do a skid over for me or friends, i use bearings, seals, collars and plastic washers from the rear shock. you can buy them from yamaha or rob them from junk shocks. you need two upper collars for the correct width.
to install them you will need to take up some slack in the holes. I use a feeler guage slid in with the bearing till i find the correct size. usually around .005 . I use this full width so it will hold the seals in as well.
Install everything dry and clean but use locktite so the bearing wont slide side to side and to take up any tiny spaces.
while you are doing this remove your skid. remove your w arm. buy new bushings because if you have any miles on it they are wore out.
drill and tap the top of the lower w arm mounts for 1/4 28 long straight grease fittings.
next cut a coffee can into strips as wide as the mount. Start with a piece 1in wide and install it in the hole. then install the bushings. then the collars. if the collars wont fit in then remove everything, cut some off the coffee can strip and reinstall. do this untill the collars fit tight. do the same with the upper bushings in the w arm as well.
use this trick to tighten up your lower transfer rod mounts too. these need a 90% grease fitting in them so you will have access.
when the skid is upside down inspect the condition of the lower shock mount. if it is cracked remove and reweld. when installing these I run a grinder over the end of the shaft, clean the rail good, mix up some jbweld and spread a thin layer over the ends of the shaft. quickly bolt the mount in and tighten lightly. let dry. then remove bolts locktite and tighten the crap out of it. what this does is fills in any imperfections between the rail and mount so that it will fit tighter with no gaps. this part is what keeps your skid square and in parallel as well as taking the twisting load from the front shock. it is very important this part fit as tight as it can.
when reinstalling everything us locktite. also to stop your w arm from breaking use no preload on spring once your limiters are set to where you want them. the spring should end up with little or no preasure as the limiters start to bring up.
i would redo this to make it a better article but no time, sleds to build, shop to run, kids to tend to, apartment to redo
also remember, the skid is what works in conjunction with your sway bar to keep your sled flat. when you tighten up your rear skid like i have done below, it not only rides better, it is like adding a rear sway bar.
when i do a skid over for me or friends, i use bearings, seals, collars and plastic washers from the rear shock. you can buy them from yamaha or rob them from junk shocks. you need two upper collars for the correct width.
to install them you will need to take up some slack in the holes. I use a feeler guage slid in with the bearing till i find the correct size. usually around .005 . I use this full width so it will hold the seals in as well.
Install everything dry and clean but use locktite so the bearing wont slide side to side and to take up any tiny spaces.
while you are doing this remove your skid. remove your w arm. buy new bushings because if you have any miles on it they are wore out.
drill and tap the top of the lower w arm mounts for 1/4 28 long straight grease fittings.
next cut a coffee can into strips as wide as the mount. Start with a piece 1in wide and install it in the hole. then install the bushings. then the collars. if the collars wont fit in then remove everything, cut some off the coffee can strip and reinstall. do this untill the collars fit tight. do the same with the upper bushings in the w arm as well.
use this trick to tighten up your lower transfer rod mounts too. these need a 90% grease fitting in them so you will have access.
when the skid is upside down inspect the condition of the lower shock mount. if it is cracked remove and reweld. when installing these I run a grinder over the end of the shaft, clean the rail good, mix up some jbweld and spread a thin layer over the ends of the shaft. quickly bolt the mount in and tighten lightly. let dry. then remove bolts locktite and tighten the crap out of it. what this does is fills in any imperfections between the rail and mount so that it will fit tighter with no gaps. this part is what keeps your skid square and in parallel as well as taking the twisting load from the front shock. it is very important this part fit as tight as it can.
when reinstalling everything us locktite. also to stop your w arm from breaking use no preload on spring once your limiters are set to where you want them. the spring should end up with little or no preasure as the limiters start to bring up.
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When you take the skid out, first thing you want to fix is the zircs. I ground out the yamaha welded in zircs and tig welded in 1/4-28 nuts. This will allow quick change of zircs when the fail.