i think you have a locked up shock. If you sit on the sled and all is good, the gap top an bottom on your rods will equal out.
did the sled work correctly when you got it back from the shock warrenty?
can you post pictures of the inside of the suspension with it thawed out?
did the sled work correctly when you got it back from the shock warrenty?
can you post pictures of the inside of the suspension with it thawed out?
stretchSXV
New member
BETHEVIPER said:
After I got it back last year it rode perfect. I've only had it out twice this year. I think a total of 60 miles. The sled has around 700 miles total. If I didn't finance this it would be traded in. Which stinks b/c I love the looks and sound of the vipers. I'll go take pics now.
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stretchSXV
New member
bluewho
Active member
Can you put the sled back on the ground and take some pics from a few feet back.Try to get the hole sled in one.Check if the front ski spring retainers are tight and have not backed off [lowering sled ]as well.
stretchSXV
New member
bluewho said:
I can do that tomorrow. I'll take it off the trailer and get some pics of it sitting it on the ground. I don't want to take pics of the rear when it's sitting next to my wife's Doo.
stretchSXV
New member
Alright everything is thawed out. I had my son lift and then push on the bumper. I can see both shocks moving. The rods still don't do anything. I had him sit on it since he weighs the same as me and the rods didn't move but the shocks did? Wish I didn't owe $4,900 on this.
Wish I didn't owe $4,900 on this.
bluewho
Active member
Try undoing the bottom bracket bolts for the rod holders on both sides from the rail!
Than try it.Or try greaseing them.
Than try it.Or try greaseing them.
stretchSXV
New member
bluewho said:
I greased the crap out of the skid. Blew out all the old grease. Still doesn't move.
What do I do after I loosen up the bottom bracket bolts? I'll take pics in the mornign to make sure I'm loosening up the right ones. Also Should the sled be on the ground or in the air to try this. Thank god all the snow is gone so I got some time to work on it before it's ride time again. 
bluewho
Active member
With the sled on the ground remove the transfer rod holders and cycle suspension.This will tell us if the transfer rods are binding.You should post on another forom this one is for faqs.Go down one.
stretchSXV
New member
bluewho said:
SRY I first PM'ed BTV and Thought this was the thread he wanted me to post it up in?
I'll unhook the transfer rods tomorrow morning and let you know what happens. Thanks for the help anyway.
bluewho
Active member
You keep butting your head like that you will get a headacke.lol If he said its all right by all means.I thought you said somewere if you lift the front of sled it works better.
stretchSXV
New member
bluewho said:
No sir I put the rear on a stand to take the second set of pics. I might take the sled down to my work since it's snowing out here now, lol. I'm just flustered right now with this sled. If I have to bring it to the shop this will be the second time for the skid and it only has 700 miles on the sled total. That's why I'm banging my head and yes I do have a headache
please, post to this thread, it helps everyone, i can clean it up later if it gets too messy.
also, could you tell me what your weight is?
also, could you tell me what your weight is?
bluewho
Active member
I am likely off base here but i would think the spring rate has been overtightened to compensate for a bad shock.
stretchSXV
New member
BETHEVIPER said:
200LBS. The FRA is set in the middle. I will be real upset if the shock is shot and the dealer tried to hide it. I'm waiting for my buddy to get back so I can use his heated garage to look at it more and try to disconnect the transfer rods.
you dont have to remove the transfer rods, you can grab them and wiggle them if they are not stuck. My guess right now is that your rods are fine, ive seen some pretty rusted up skids and never seen stuck rods. I bet your rear shock is some has failed somehow.
Are 200 with all your gear on? I know this may sound silly but when I had my pro action dialed in I put the FRA on the hard or stiffest setting and then adjusted the rear shock until I had equal gaps on the top and bottom sides of the the transfer rod. In the soft postion it rode like a tank, much softer ride in the hard FRA position. I know the Viper had some different stuff going on but at this point what do you have to loose. Have you tried to adjsut for equal gaps both top and bottome of the transfer rods?
Because the skid is coupled front to back I don't think you can tell much buy just pushing down and lifteing up on the rear end, its much different when moving and hit bumps on a trail.
Have you read the tuning guides in the FAQ section?
Because the skid is coupled front to back I don't think you can tell much buy just pushing down and lifteing up on the rear end, its much different when moving and hit bumps on a trail.
Have you read the tuning guides in the FAQ section?
stretchSXV
New member
SRXBob said:
I messed around with it this weekend. I found that the dealership moved the FRA from the softest setting to the middle one. I'm 200lbs without my gear on. I was able to get the transfer rods to move when myself and my buddy pushed down on the bumper. I've checked the shocks and they seem fine to be but I'm not an expert. I'm guessing that the dealership has it set up real hard. I haven't rode it yet this year. My 12 year old rides it and I get the wifey's sled when him and I go. Tomorrow I'm taking it out for a rip up and down the canal here which is always like a washboard so I can get a feel for what it is doing. I'll have more feedback tomorrow. I might just need to loosen up the springs. I HOPE.
Betheviper, Nice original post. I have my skid out for the first time and noticed many of the same issues in the original post. Front shock bushings, gone. Slop in the skid w/o shocks, yup.
Lower W arm bushings are easy to shim. Cut tin to length of bushing and put back together.
I have a question about the upper W arm shim. This is a shaft which runs the width of the W arm. Do you wrap the entire shaft or just the ends where the color slides in?
Second question, Which one is the upper scissor? Yamaha parts docs have everything listed as bracket1, 2, 3... or shaft 1, 2, 3.....
Thanks Again
Lower W arm bushings are easy to shim. Cut tin to length of bushing and put back together.
I have a question about the upper W arm shim. This is a shaft which runs the width of the W arm. Do you wrap the entire shaft or just the ends where the color slides in?
Second question, Which one is the upper scissor? Yamaha parts docs have everything listed as bracket1, 2, 3... or shaft 1, 2, 3.....
Thanks Again
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
is the only reason to move FRA from first hole to middle hole just because of riders weight.I do bottom out on my 2 sleds on softest position more then a few times a ride.I may try the middle position to see how it changes things.What can I expect then..less coupling effect ???