bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
Can someone explain to me exactly by changing the secondary wrap how it effects things.Have 8DN-20's empty in primary and secondary wrap 80 degrees with 51/43 Helix and green spring.Different wraps control belt slippage and shifting patterns.Backshift and upshift to be exact.So if you run good rpm's and all of a sudden you hit a stretch of drifted snow along a roadway,you would backshift properly and your engine still maintains the rpm,s it had going into the soft stuff.So by different wraps,you can control this.Maybe someone else can explain it better. Thanks.
xt700
New member
- Joined
- Jan 27, 2006
- Messages
- 262
more wrap tightens your secondary spring, wich makes your secondary clutch harder to open, so the primary has to pull harder on it to start accelerating. so this meens a little higher engagement, and higher shift rate. it also puts more side force in the secondary, thus reducing belt slippage but too much side pressure is just robbing you of power. the ideal wrap is the loosest possible without slipping the belt. more wrap also increases back shift. so when you come on to her out of a corner it back shifts quicker, just dont get carried away or youll loose acceleration.
change_up
New member
Well, primary engagement is just that... in the primary only, so the secondary doesn't affect it, but other than that xt700 is right on. You only want enough secondary wrap not to slip the belt. Typical wraps with the green spring are from 50-70 degrees for flatlanders. You're 80 should be OK, but if you can go lower it may be slightly better
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
change-up
Yes I will do some more testing.It is early yet and want more of a base of snow to do my test properly.Keep in touch.
Yes I will do some more testing.It is early yet and want more of a base of snow to do my test properly.Keep in touch.
FuzzButt
New member
Took me a while to write this but xt700 has it right.
Try thinking of it this way. Once you understand how it works you can apply different setting and come up with the combination that works for you. I'd recommend keeping a journal. Log your settings and what parts you are using. Dates things were changed. Log the conditions of your ride. The more info you collect the better you will understand what change effected what.
Here's my thoughts about the YVX CVT...
I think the easiest way to think of the CVT is that the primary is to control engine RPM. Don't think of changing one or many settings to control slippage.
The Primary's main function is to keep the engine in the powerband. The flyweights are designed with characteristics to apply a given amount of force throught its arc. The weights work against the spring and in the easiest way to explain it the roller size is kind of like a multiplication factor of sorts. The smaller roller diameter the more side force the weights can exert on the sheave. Not having the right setup here will not allow for the power to be used in the most effecient manner.
The secondary is there to apply the torque to the track. During operation the primary will squeeze the belt all the way up the sheave. Without the secondary there to offset the amount of torque needed you would have a sled that seemed to be stuck in first gear. The helix determines the ratio at which the power output can work against the load. The spring in the secondary has measureable rate in both compression and twist. The different wrap settings will change the shifting by decreasing or increasing the force needed to pull open the secondary. If you notice upon opening the secondary one sife is stationary and one side twists. The twisting side hooks directly to the spring and if you could measure it would increase in force needed to twist it (open it if you were in the belts point of view) between settings of 10 degrees and 90 degrees. (you add the numbers together and put a "0" at the end to get the degree). Having a worn out spring or the wrong setting or both can make for a real badly working torque management device. Since the belt is of a certain thickness and length as the primary squeezes shut the secondary gives up the slack at a predetermined rate depending on where in ramp the helix is in with what ever spring pressure and twist is being applied. A give and take relationship of sorts.
Now provided the spring were new and you had everything set to stock form moving the degree of wrap from 50 to 60 for instance may help in certain conditions. Say heavier snow. Droping down to 40 for instance might be better in powder. The 50 in this example is a good "Betweener". My 600 likes 60 degrees in the conditions I ride in. It is a trade off. Ya it might go faster at a different setting but it performs the best all around at 60 with my MaxxPerf helix. (this might change since I swapped tracks we'll have to see)
Hope this made sense. I'm a bit tired so I could be wrong on a few things but basically in the simpleist form this is how the YVX system works. Others are a bit different in design but still the same principle.
Try thinking of it this way. Once you understand how it works you can apply different setting and come up with the combination that works for you. I'd recommend keeping a journal. Log your settings and what parts you are using. Dates things were changed. Log the conditions of your ride. The more info you collect the better you will understand what change effected what.
Here's my thoughts about the YVX CVT...
I think the easiest way to think of the CVT is that the primary is to control engine RPM. Don't think of changing one or many settings to control slippage.
The Primary's main function is to keep the engine in the powerband. The flyweights are designed with characteristics to apply a given amount of force throught its arc. The weights work against the spring and in the easiest way to explain it the roller size is kind of like a multiplication factor of sorts. The smaller roller diameter the more side force the weights can exert on the sheave. Not having the right setup here will not allow for the power to be used in the most effecient manner.
The secondary is there to apply the torque to the track. During operation the primary will squeeze the belt all the way up the sheave. Without the secondary there to offset the amount of torque needed you would have a sled that seemed to be stuck in first gear. The helix determines the ratio at which the power output can work against the load. The spring in the secondary has measureable rate in both compression and twist. The different wrap settings will change the shifting by decreasing or increasing the force needed to pull open the secondary. If you notice upon opening the secondary one sife is stationary and one side twists. The twisting side hooks directly to the spring and if you could measure it would increase in force needed to twist it (open it if you were in the belts point of view) between settings of 10 degrees and 90 degrees. (you add the numbers together and put a "0" at the end to get the degree). Having a worn out spring or the wrong setting or both can make for a real badly working torque management device. Since the belt is of a certain thickness and length as the primary squeezes shut the secondary gives up the slack at a predetermined rate depending on where in ramp the helix is in with what ever spring pressure and twist is being applied. A give and take relationship of sorts.
Now provided the spring were new and you had everything set to stock form moving the degree of wrap from 50 to 60 for instance may help in certain conditions. Say heavier snow. Droping down to 40 for instance might be better in powder. The 50 in this example is a good "Betweener". My 600 likes 60 degrees in the conditions I ride in. It is a trade off. Ya it might go faster at a different setting but it performs the best all around at 60 with my MaxxPerf helix. (this might change since I swapped tracks we'll have to see)
Hope this made sense. I'm a bit tired so I could be wrong on a few things but basically in the simpleist form this is how the YVX system works. Others are a bit different in design but still the same principle.
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bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
Thanks FuzzButt.I guess if you put on a more aggressive track,you may have to increase wrap slightly.
FuzzButt
New member
I don't know yet. The camoplast I dropped in there may need more force to turn vs the yoko I had with 7800 miles on it.
No snow here in Mighigan and even if there was no time to go out and play. I have my secondary on my work bench for the past 2 weeks waiting for a time I cah clean it and put it back together then I need to do the carbs and I'll be ready to go out.
No snow here in Mighigan and even if there was no time to go out and play. I have my secondary on my work bench for the past 2 weeks waiting for a time I cah clean it and put it back together then I need to do the carbs and I'll be ready to go out.