kingtigg
New member
I was not paying ANY attention earlier and I accidentally posted the message below to the SXR forum...anyway...here it is again..please ignore if you've read it over in that other forum.
Sorry!
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Help please!
I'm now running with 8DN-20s and a YSY in the primary with a green secondary spring and a Bender 52/43 helix wrapped @ 70 deg.
The 2 rivets in the weights were initialy 4.5 tip and ~1/2-3/4 of that size in the heel (not 100% sure since the rivets came with the weights).
I bought all the clutch components used...is there a chance the springs are no good any more? I'm pretty sure the tip weights were 4.5g since I've got some 4.5g weights new from yamaha and the one that I punched out is the same diameter...Im not sure about the inner ones..im guessing based on what I can see with the rivet hammered in the hole...if they are not the same material (aluminium?) then they could be heavier..im not sure...I just know they are 1/2-3/4 the diameter of the tip ones I removed.
I bought the sled (98 SRX 700) in the summer and have just taken my first ride today after upgrading the stock clutching to the above setup.
I have to say I'm quite disappointed with the results!
The initial upshift was very noticable and once it shifted up the rpms would immediately lug at about 7000...(from 50km/hr+) if I were to let off and hammer back on it again the rpms would not go above 7000! (no backshift)
1st try: tightening the helix to 110 deg...only raised the rpm by ~300 rpm at best.
2nd try: remove the tip weight completely and reduce helix wrap back to 70 deg ....raised the rpm to 8000...not bad...
3rd try: tightening the helix to 120 deg...didnt seem to do all that much.
The best I managed to do was get 8100 rpm shift rpm and a non-spectacular top speed of 130kph (try #2)...i ran out of ditch (~ 1km long)....but there really wasnt much pull left to it after that .....shouldnt I easily see 160km/hr?...
I've got a 1" stock polaris track on the machine and a low windshield.
I weigh ~170lbs.
What can I do???? does anyone have any recomendations?
Thanks in advance!
HELP!
-KingTigg
Sorry!
-----------------------------------------------
Help please!
I'm now running with 8DN-20s and a YSY in the primary with a green secondary spring and a Bender 52/43 helix wrapped @ 70 deg.
The 2 rivets in the weights were initialy 4.5 tip and ~1/2-3/4 of that size in the heel (not 100% sure since the rivets came with the weights).
I bought all the clutch components used...is there a chance the springs are no good any more? I'm pretty sure the tip weights were 4.5g since I've got some 4.5g weights new from yamaha and the one that I punched out is the same diameter...Im not sure about the inner ones..im guessing based on what I can see with the rivet hammered in the hole...if they are not the same material (aluminium?) then they could be heavier..im not sure...I just know they are 1/2-3/4 the diameter of the tip ones I removed.
I bought the sled (98 SRX 700) in the summer and have just taken my first ride today after upgrading the stock clutching to the above setup.
I have to say I'm quite disappointed with the results!
The initial upshift was very noticable and once it shifted up the rpms would immediately lug at about 7000...(from 50km/hr+) if I were to let off and hammer back on it again the rpms would not go above 7000! (no backshift)
1st try: tightening the helix to 110 deg...only raised the rpm by ~300 rpm at best.
2nd try: remove the tip weight completely and reduce helix wrap back to 70 deg ....raised the rpm to 8000...not bad...
3rd try: tightening the helix to 120 deg...didnt seem to do all that much.
The best I managed to do was get 8100 rpm shift rpm and a non-spectacular top speed of 130kph (try #2)...i ran out of ditch (~ 1km long)....but there really wasnt much pull left to it after that .....shouldnt I easily see 160km/hr?...
I've got a 1" stock polaris track on the machine and a low windshield.
I weigh ~170lbs.
What can I do???? does anyone have any recomendations?
Thanks in advance!
HELP!
-KingTigg
have you checkt the powervalves?? dont think your sled would act like that if you are a little off clutching, only if maybe a spring was broken..
if everythings is in good condition on your sled you will love the power of the srx!!!
if everythings is in good condition on your sled you will love the power of the srx!!!
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
If you don't want the sled,Ill take it off your hands for a decent price.Did you check if the crank was updated on that model year.I am looking for an Srx for a good price,low mileage would be an asset..........Doug
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
Just guessing,but does that sled have around 3500 miles on it.
You can make allmost any helix work in any sled but then you are tuning with the secondary instead of using the primary. You really & truelly want to get the rpm,s close using the primary & then fine tune using different helix/spring combos.
kingtigg
New member
hmm..
I cleaned the powervalves back in sept...they seemed ok and all the cables that attached to them felt like they were still intact back to the servo...Is there something else with regards to the powervales I can check to ensure I dont have a pulled through cable or that the servo is actually working?
That's VERY odd that you're asking...yes the sled has got 3900miles on it...why do you ask? Would low power be a symptom of a the bad cranks in the 98's? (i have not checked with local my dealer...yet... to see if this crank has been replaced...)
Thanks
-Ryan
I cleaned the powervalves back in sept...they seemed ok and all the cables that attached to them felt like they were still intact back to the servo...Is there something else with regards to the powervales I can check to ensure I dont have a pulled through cable or that the servo is actually working?
That's VERY odd that you're asking...yes the sled has got 3900miles on it...why do you ask? Would low power be a symptom of a the bad cranks in the 98's? (i have not checked with local my dealer...yet... to see if this crank has been replaced...)
Thanks
-Ryan
You gotta be 8300 rpm,s for best top end. I answered in detail your previous post & how to fix.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
I think that sled was mentioned to me from a couple of guys I met on a job.Told me they knew someone who was selling the 98 Srx with that many miles. Gave him my card,but they did not call me back about it.Again I miss another SRX purchase.Dealer was selling a 2000SRX for
$4000.00,but with a few more miles with long travelled suspension. I should of bought it.Keep me in mind in the future if you are gonna sell it. Take the identification number of that sled and take it to a dealer and see if the crank was updated on it. Thanks.......................................Doug
$4000.00,but with a few more miles with long travelled suspension. I should of bought it.Keep me in mind in the future if you are gonna sell it. Take the identification number of that sled and take it to a dealer and see if the crank was updated on it. Thanks.......................................Doug
when you go to the dealer you can get them to look at your powervalve servo motor, mine broke and i lost rpm and it was major loss of power..
kingtigg
New member
Turk: I'll definitely try those clutch changes you gave me in the other thread...Thanks!
Powerpack: I'll will take a closer look at my servo to ensure its not the cause of this apparent loss of power...Thx.
Bluemonster1: This could be that sled then!...I took a test ride on the 2000 you're speaking of..I kind of thought they were asking too much $$$ tho...either way, when I want to sell I'll look you up at that time.
So, What would the symptoms of a "spun" defective crank be? ...loss of power like this? Would there be any other noticeable problems? poor idle, etc...my machine has no other issues but the low power...
Thanks again everyone!
Powerpack: I'll will take a closer look at my servo to ensure its not the cause of this apparent loss of power...Thx.
Bluemonster1: This could be that sled then!...I took a test ride on the 2000 you're speaking of..I kind of thought they were asking too much $$$ tho...either way, when I want to sell I'll look you up at that time.
So, What would the symptoms of a "spun" defective crank be? ...loss of power like this? Would there be any other noticeable problems? poor idle, etc...my machine has no other issues but the low power...
Thanks again everyone!
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
Ok that is fine.About the crank issues,you'll have to get the info from someone else. Would think if crank was defective,you would maybe get a feeling of vibration of some kind,I am no expert on that subject.Still learning things on here.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
Does it idle rough when you start it up,you don't hear any unusual noise at all.Just trying to eliminate things.Check your compression also and see what you get there.
kingtigg
New member
No, it idles and runs just fine...no weird noises or vibrations.
Takes 3-4 pulls to start when cold..one when warm.
I cant remember the exact compression numbers but all 3 cylinders were close to each other.
Takes 3-4 pulls to start when cold..one when warm.
I cant remember the exact compression numbers but all 3 cylinders were close to each other.
kingtigg
New member
Top speed and RPMs still not good...
OK...I ran the engine for 30 secs and re-tested compression (engine cold but lubed).
~120 psi on my cheap tester across all 3 cylynders (100psi before running the sled).
I called dealer about crank...he said "there are no current recalls listed for that sled" which meant to him: he cannot confirm or deny that this crank has ever been fixed.
I turned the idle down <900 and did observe the servo pulling back the slides...i pulled off the exhaust and actually felt that the slide is fully up and flush. (no stand so I cannot yet verify that the slides are pulling back @ 6500 rpm...)
I changed the rivets as well...here is my setup now:
8DN-20s, w/ 2.4g inner and 0.8g outer rivets (this seems light compared to all other setups)
used YSY in the primary, used green secondary spring and the stock helix! wound to 70 deg.
I started today with a Bender 52/43 helix then tried my other Bender 53/44.
I found that the sled performed better using the stock helix for both backshifting and top rpms?!?!?! why???
Both of these Bender helixes only have the angles scribed in them with a scratch-awl...so im not 100% sure these are the actual angles...who knows.
Anway..I managed to top out at 140kph on the speedo this time...but the top rpms are only at about 8050! I tried raising the secondary winding up to 90deg and didn't notice any rpm change!
I tried to look for any vibrations @ ~80km and didnt notice anything unusual.
Out of the hole and midrange is ok..backshifting seems reasonable (jumps up to 8000 pretty quick).
I'm thinking I should remove the 0.8g in the tips this time...but even with the extra ~250 rpms is it really going to be all that much faster?
Any Recomdations out there?
Any idea how much extra power I could gain by re-ringing? (6500kms on the machine now).
Thanks again!
OK...I ran the engine for 30 secs and re-tested compression (engine cold but lubed).
~120 psi on my cheap tester across all 3 cylynders (100psi before running the sled).
I called dealer about crank...he said "there are no current recalls listed for that sled" which meant to him: he cannot confirm or deny that this crank has ever been fixed.
I turned the idle down <900 and did observe the servo pulling back the slides...i pulled off the exhaust and actually felt that the slide is fully up and flush. (no stand so I cannot yet verify that the slides are pulling back @ 6500 rpm...)
I changed the rivets as well...here is my setup now:
8DN-20s, w/ 2.4g inner and 0.8g outer rivets (this seems light compared to all other setups)
used YSY in the primary, used green secondary spring and the stock helix! wound to 70 deg.
I started today with a Bender 52/43 helix then tried my other Bender 53/44.
I found that the sled performed better using the stock helix for both backshifting and top rpms?!?!?! why???
Both of these Bender helixes only have the angles scribed in them with a scratch-awl...so im not 100% sure these are the actual angles...who knows.
Anway..I managed to top out at 140kph on the speedo this time...but the top rpms are only at about 8050! I tried raising the secondary winding up to 90deg and didn't notice any rpm change!
I tried to look for any vibrations @ ~80km and didnt notice anything unusual.
Out of the hole and midrange is ok..backshifting seems reasonable (jumps up to 8000 pretty quick).
I'm thinking I should remove the 0.8g in the tips this time...but even with the extra ~250 rpms is it really going to be all that much faster?
Any Recomdations out there?
Any idea how much extra power I could gain by re-ringing? (6500kms on the machine now).
Thanks again!
blkmax600
New member
Phone "MAIN MOTORSPORTS" and ask to speak to Gord , he has welded lots of SRX cranks and will know the symtoms. 204-338-7610.
Good luck
Good luck
Using 8dn 20 weights loaded with 4.5 gram rivets & 47 degree helix at 80 wrap your rpm,s should be about 85-8600 rpm. If not you have 1 or 2 powervalve cables that have pulled thru....been der dun dat.
take of the cover of your power valve motor and make sure if u pull on cable one at the time that u feel a tension .....if not a power valve is broken or cable make sure power valve are close went u try to pull on cable
Did you adjust the powervalves after you cleaned them?
kingtigg
New member
no, I did not adjust the powervalves...i bet this is the problem or a couple have pulled thru...I will update when I get a chance to look it over...
Thanks!
Thanks!
mulderdad
New member
After you check your pv's, use the feel method to adjust them.
Take your pipes off and the manifolds feel inside and adjust to flush with the exhaust ports. Make sure you have your servo motor fully open first though, or you will be repeating the above procedure. Don't ask me how many times I have done this before I marked the sevo spool at the fully open position!
Take your pipes off and the manifolds feel inside and adjust to flush with the exhaust ports. Make sure you have your servo motor fully open first though, or you will be repeating the above procedure. Don't ask me how many times I have done this before I marked the sevo spool at the fully open position!