Gas additive ? for NOSBOY

Yammiman - Why over 13:1 compression? The reason I ask is I'm not sure how much octane is required to prevent deto with my set up.
I don't know my compression in terms of ratio's and run Mega power heads ( 24cc)with one layer head gasket at 155-157 PSI with a good compression gauge. I know I can't run Premium fuel any longer with this set up and have burned several pistons, stuffed a few rings fooling with various set ups. All low octane deto and heat related failures. I do see lead deposits on the plugs but no other deposit problems. After reading about Torco it sounds like a great product but is very expensive.
 
Because engine octane requirements can be reached with unleaded additives or unleaded race fuels and they have been shown with dyno's to produce more power than the same octane fuels using lead or other metals - once you are over 13:1, have a turbo, or a supercharger, most likely your octane requirements will be higher than what can be reached with unleaded fuels or additives - only then would I use a leaded additive or fuel - I don't know what your PSI equates to in compression ratio, someone on here would know I would think, but if it is 13:1 or under, I would run unleaded fuel or additives all the way - I can guarantee you that you would tell the difference - it will run like it is on nitrous!!! ;)!
 
Mac said:
Good discussion - I have been using this stuff for years. Gary here is your lead still available.

http://www.batterystuff.com/fuel-treatments/OS6q.html

"From the websit"
WHY IS OCTANE SUPREME-130 DIFFERENT FROM ALL THE OTHER ADDITIVES ON THE MARKET TODAY?

Octane Supreme-130 contains 60 grams of genuine tetraethyl lead. Other manufacturer's additives contain lead substitutes, such as ammonium phosphates, amine phosphates, manganese compounds, sodium, sulfur formulas, and others.

There are products that blend a trace of lead with other chemical substitutes so they can advertise a lead product. Octane Boost-130 is the only product with 100% TEL activate (NO SUBSTITUTES) for maximum performance.
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I read a little on that stuff.. The SUN really does NOT decompose it and the Department of the Enviornment would have a FIELD DAY if they caught you running it in your sled.... It WILL turn your fuel BLACK by exposing it to SUNLIGHT,,,but,,, it will not DO ANYTHING to harm the way your fuel does what it does or supposed to do... I PERSONALLY recommend you using AT LEAST 110 LEADED fuel (you can buy from VP racing fuels) BUT,,, you MAY HAVE some atomization problems because of the LOW TEMPERATURES that are adherent with SNOWMOBILING... Asphalt drag racing on a HOT DRAGSTRIP and SNOWMOBILING on FROZEN SNOW and a EIGHTY DEGREE ambient temperature change make a WORLD OF DIFFERENCE with HOW BIG OCTANE fuels act!!!! I could go on for days (some posts I have) but BUMPING UP 93 octane fuel WILL NOT DO IT!!!! You have to start with 100LL at LEAST and go from there!!!
 
My CHallenger is 12.9 to 1 and I was running C14 (114 octane) for a FEW YEARS... A good friend asked me WHY???? I told him all about the CR and how it had to run "14". He asked me to try 110 octane and tell me what I thought.. (sunoco 110).. He GAVE ME a FIVE and I pulled a line off the carb and turned the fuel pump ON and drained all the "14" out of the tank.. I FILLED my 4 gallon tank (which took ALL FIVE GALLONS?????????) and proceded to run a 10:24 instead of a 10:40 like she runs like CLOCKWORK!!! I PICKED UP 16 by using 110 SUNOCO compared to VP Racing C14... GOOD ANSWER????????
 
Ok so what should be safe octane wise for a somewhat stock sled... like mine?

I can get my hands on 94 at best at one gas station! but 91 is usualy the best I can get when im out....

I know you guys are saying octane reading is just more or less to prevent detonation and so on... (very informative info btw) very happy I read all of this thread....

any other way to tell if its bad fuel?... the gas station that has the 94... has been known to have some crapy gas once in a blue moon...
 
I use no more then 12:1 on my trail sleds[I used to run more], thats with a squish of no less then .055" and stock type squish angles. So far I have been able to run premium pump fuel, Shell Vpower is "E" free[or so they say]. On my SRX 12:1 works out to, approx, a 25cc combustion chamber...my stock SRX was 26cc.
When the "Gurus" like MRVIPER700 build their engines they can do many things with squish anges,widths,clearances, combustion chamber shapes, ect that allow higher compression ratios.
 
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You can go to the airport and buy 100LL ( One Hundred Low Lead ) from the A&P guys at your LOCAL AIRPORT... They use it in PROP AIRPLANES AND IT DOES NOT PAY MFT ( MOTOR FUEL TAXES) so it CANNOT be used on the public way ( streets that get paved by Gov't funds)..... SOME guys MAY give you a hard time and NOT WANT to sell it to you,,, but,,,, just tell them it is for OFF ROAD USE ONLY!!!! I'ts NOT CHEAP!!!! but it's GOOD INSURANCE for a 12 to 1 motor!!! (ESPECIALLY when it's REALLY COLD outside!!!)
 
100LL has atomizers in it so it can atomize in COLDER TEMPS!!!! Another good thing about 100LL compared to VP c12- C14 etc..etc..etc...
 
Gary - the 114 was too much octane for your motor - try a couple of runs with the VP113 - I'll bet you lunch you shave some more time off your slips - once you run it full strength, start cutting it with some premium pump gas and keep track of your mix and your ET's - playing with octane is alot like playing with the jetting!! - I have a 550 hp Olds that I spent a day at the track "dialing in" - best run of the day was .48 better than my first run - ALOT of it was getting the fuel spot on!!
Ride.Race.Live - my SRX's have always run the best on a 50/50 blend of unleaded 103 and premium pump gas, or about 97 octane - VP no longer makes the 103 and the 101 they have now has ethanol as the oxygenator - the 103 used ethers - I have a little 103 left and after that I'm going to start using the Torco Accelorator because of its toulene, benzine, and ether content! ;)!
 
hmm... ill have to look into it see what I can get.. I already got my kfx400 running on mark 2 race fuel... (110) really dont want to pay for 2 toys running on race fuel... would literaly keep me broke for good...lol...
 
Ride.Race.Live said:
hmm... ill have to look into it see what I can get.. I already got my kfx400 running on mark 2 race fuel... (110) really dont want to pay for 2 toys running on race fuel... would literaly keep me broke for good...lol...
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Welcome to the wonderful world of RACE FUELS!!! I have a small version of a 55 gallon drum that I use for change. About 6 inches round and a foot high. When I fill it up with change it's around $500.00... enough money for RACEFUEL for a couple of weekends!!!
 
i tryed that starton stuff in my steet bike and felt it run smoother and hae more midrange pull it's in all the mags now it's supposed to nutralize the effects of e10 fuel my buddy owns a parts store and is trying to be a dealer for the stuff he hears all kinds of good stuff about it get the latest snowtech and youll see the ad in there we all hate poor fuel i have been useing ringfree for the past 3 years but it is getting expensive
 
Startron

You can get the StarTron Enzyme addative at most any Walmart on their oil section. My freind that works on tons of boats and sleds swears by it to make mootrs run smoother with E10 fuels and is a great stabilizer. Works by breaking the light ends of the hydrocarbon chains. This has been some great reading!
 
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