steering slop

BLUEBALLER

New member
Joined
Jan 28, 2004
Messages
64
Age
49
Location
Manitoba
2000 sxr with about an inch of play in the bars. I've removed the airbox and pipes to get a better look, and I can see the steering column move back and forth quite a bit underneath the reed cages. I've looked at the microfiche and can see that there are two sets of nylon flanges that hold the steering column somewhat true. I can see the top flange mounts to the frame, does anyone know what the bottom flange mounts to? It looks like i'm gonna have to pull the motor to fix it properly. If anyone knows how much play there should be down there, let me know as it looks like it's moving way to much for my liking. All the play is before the idler arm, so it's not the ski's or the idler arm.
 
pull the motor, replace the rod end and tighten the plastic bushing till it has no slop. you may have to grind a small amount off the collars inside the plastic to let it compress enough.

when you install the rod end, grease it best you can, then install a piece of rubber(inner tube rubber) over it. cut the rubber in a key hole shape, poke a hole in the round end, slide it on the pivot end of the rod end and wire tie it to the tie rod after adjustment. this keeps dirt and water from falling into the rod end and making it rust and wear out faster.
 
so the bottom 2 piece bushing is bolted to the bulkhead then? it honestly doesn't look like the rod end is worn, the whole bottom bushing assembly seems to be moving back and forth. Either way, I guess I know what I have to do to fix it. I will try your rubber boot idea to keep future crud/water out as well. thanks for the tip.
 
Have seen many front exchanger totally loose. Might be that. Check under belly if rivets are loose/off
 
Yes Kidder & Reimond you are both correct. I just had a look again last night and noticed that the front heat exchanger is moving around as I turn my steering column. Do either of you know if it's as simple as riveting it back from the bottom of the sled or do I have to remove engine and rivet it from the inside???
 
Just replace rivets under sled and maybe below carbs (don't remember) / remove also loose ones. I have used to put glue (some auto-body stuff) between exchanger and bottom plate
 
if you pull your secondary clutch and chain case off, there are a bunch of rivits on each side. cut those off with an air chisel and put new steel ones in. that should stop any heat exchanger movement...
 
just got er done. 6 rivets on each side and now I've got less than 1/4 inch of play. I can live with that. thank gawd i didn't have to pull that motor out.
thanks for your help guys.
 


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