How many miles til i can squeez on it?

EricMichael

EricMichael

New member
Joined
Dec 25, 2005
Messages
543
Location
Presque Isle, ME
how many miles does an 02 viper with pipes take to break in??in the break in period diffrent with pipes??is it ok to run alittle oil in the gas??i'm running 165 mains in it..so it should be rich...
 
is this a viper with less then 100 miles on it? if not the motor is prolly already broken in. as far as i know putting pipes on doesn't constitutionality a break in period only when its new rings pistons or cylinder.
 
new rings

its ok to run a little bit of oil in tank just to be safe but it is not necessary. what kind of oil are you using? If it is synthetic switch it to regular cheap stuff until break in is done then switch back to synthetic. As for break in do not go full out right away.
 
flying yami said:
its ok to run a little bit of oil in tank just to be safe but it is not necessary. what kind of oil are you using? If it is synthetic switch it to regular cheap stuff until break in is done then switch back to synthetic. As for break in do not go full out right away.
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Why wouldnt you use the oil your goin to run regularly for the break in. I'm breaking mine in with AMSOIL and its the first itll be use in my sled on top of SLP pipes. Cant see it doin anything bad to the motor and its better than using yamalube from what i have been told from just about every motor and OIL guy on this site. Yea that includes you NOSBOY.
 
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Hey guys what wrong with yamalube? I run it but if it isn't the best for my sled let me know what is. I would rather spend extra money on somthing that will make her last longer.
 
Yamalube

I have had good luck with Yamalube although I don't use it anymore. If you really want to know "what's wrong with Yamalube" you should ask NOSBOY to respond to this post. Hey Gary, where are ya! I'm going to get some popcorn and a beer and sit back and watch NOSBOY YELL at you about THAT JUNK OIL!!!!!!!!! That is THE SAME at Citco land and sea CRAP!!!!!

LOL Madmatt
 
No syn oil on 0 mile rings

EricMichael said:
wel i have a full tank of amsoil...planned on using that..but some people say to use non-synthetic oil for break in...
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Man do not run syn oil...way to slippery they will glaze the cylinder walls...you need reg 2-cycle oil to do this...if you do not, you will be sorry...cause shes gonna blow...or have less power...good luck...
 
theblues said:
Man do not run syn oil...way to slippery they will glaze the cylinder walls...you need reg 2-cycle oil to do this...if you do not, you will be sorry...cause shes gonna blow...or have less power...good luck...
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I'm curious then, why Im being told from MRVIPER, NOSBOY, SKIDOOBOY, and many others to run Full Syn. over Semi Syn. on my SLP Viper. All major players on this site telling me to run it and you say no. Explain why cause your theory on full syn. being to slippery seems pretty thin, cause last time I checked you want a slippery oil if ya didnt then your adding friction then thats adds heat, which can lead to a blown motor. Please correct me if in wrong

NOSBOY or MRVIPER please chime in on this thread
 
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Nosboy told me that that synthetic oil will just take a little longer to fully seat the rings compared to mineral oil. He said synthetic oil will keeps temps lower and heat is the enemy of a motor.

Here's the PM that he replied back to me.

nosboy said:
A lot of people will go with the OLD SCHOOL approach of breaking in motors with conventional oil.. Picture this..... A cylinder that is FRSHLY honed has a LOT of scratch marks in it. Doesn't it??? The scratch marks are put in there so the surfaces could wear in together and it provides a positive seal... A LOT of excess friction is produced with a freshly honed cylinder.. friction causes heat and heat is EXACTLY what you want to keep away from when breaking in a fresh motor.. Different metals expand and contract differently.. The wrist pin, the pin bearing, the piston, the cylinder, and the rings ALL EXPAND differently.. The honing actually damages the piston skirts when you start a fresh motor... it prematurely wears them.. There is NO NEED to prematurely wear in the pistons for any reason.. they damage them as they are wearing in... For that reason (along with other reasons) using a synthetic oil will HELP with the heat problem,help with the premature wear problem and MAYBE the motor will take a FEW MORE MINUTES to wear the rings in,,,but,,, wouldn't you like your next ring job to be 5000 miles away insted of 3000 miles???? Synthetic oil works FAR BETTER than conventional oil does... Now lets get to the oil question.. I don't know who makes arctic cat or polaris's oil.. Polaris OR AC does not own an oil refinery!!! They purchase oil through a contract from companies like EXXON MOBIL or CITGO , BP or ASHLAND.. There are only 4 or 5 companies that refine oil.. Just like Anti freeze There are 2 ANTI freeze companies and DOZENS of brands!!!! So, the chances of getting oil from a NO NAME brand at wal mart is THE EXACT SAME oil as you get with the SKI-DOO pr A/C name (for a lot more money)... Oil companies DO NOT produce oil specifically designed for YAMAHA like the advertising LIES about!!! They produce jaso or tcw-3 spec oils and yamaha buys it with that requirement.. ITS the SAME EXACT oil that is 5.00 a gallon less with the TEXACO name on it!!!! I could go on for hours about oils,,, but I think you get the picture... Gary Oles nosboy
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I'm thinking about breaking it in with synthetic oil, but still haven't made up my mind yet. It's just hard to "go against the grain".
 
break in

I still believe that your main goal is to seat the ring in as quickly as possible and these engine were designed by engineers when syn oil was not available at yamie dealers and only reg. yamilube. If it take a little more heat and reg. yamilube to achieve this then this is the way I will go, than to drive a sled and go for 2 or 3 tanks that it might take. I believe it take heat and less viscosity to seat them makes sense to me...Here's a link to read...let me know what you think, please...
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
 
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I WANT TO START SCREAMING!!!!!! YAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!1st of all, a FRESHLY honed and ringed motor will break in ALMOST IMMEDIATELY!!! WHOEVER told you things like 100 miles GOT A SCREW LOOSE!!!! THE CYLINDER honing procedure is done to create a "rough surface" for the rings to wear into... A ROUGH SURFACE with NEW RINGS doesn't seal too good at all!!! Thats why the honing is a rough surface, to BREAK IN THE RINGS RIGHT AWAY.. If you rering and DO NOT hone the cylinder,,it will take a LOT LONGER to seat the rings to the culinder... MAYBE taking a DOZEN MILES or so!!!!! HERE GOES THE THEORY thing again...... A freshly honed cylinder produces an SXCESS AMOUNT of HEAT RIGHT AWAY... HEAT causes EXPANSION... ALUMINUM pistons will expand a LOT more than a nikasil cylinder wall will and also a LOT more than a ring will!!! so,,, HEAT EXPANSION during BREAKIN is a BAD THING!!!! SYNTHETIC motor oil WILL keep the heat to a minimum wheras conventional motor oil will have a tendency to "glaze and overheat" causing the lubricity of the oil to diminish!!! The lubricity diminishes and the HEAT GOES THROUGH THE ROOF!!!! Your piston starts to elongate or (eggshape) and your rings seat on the minor and major thrust sides ONLY!!! THUS creating an OUT OF ROUND condition RIGHT AWAY!!!! The out of round is in TENTHS (ten thousandths) and the DAMAGE is already done... The motor continues to break in and the rings try to adapt to the elongated shape throughout the rest of the break in period.... by the time the motor has been through a FEW DUTY CYCLES your SPECS (cylinder to wall clearance) is ALMOST AT THE LIMIT!!! (not really,but for practical purposes!!!) SYNTHETIC OIL is a MUST ESPECIALLY AT BREAK IN!!!! SYNTHETIC OIL makes a motor job last TWICE as long as a conventional oil motor does.. YAMALUBE is DOWNRIGHT A WASTE OF MONEY!!!!! Citgo (you know the venezuelan company) MAKES YAMALUBE!!!! YAMAHA does NOT have their little japanese guys throw a "magic pill" or a "shot of power" in the gallon jug before citgo fills it!!!! You can buy gallons of yamalube (under another name) at walmart for 5.00 a gallon!!!! Personally, I wouldn't URINATE on CITGO even if they were on FIRE!!!! Thats about how much I think of CITGO!!!! Cylinder glazing is because of SEVERE OVERHEATING.. SEVERE overheating is USUaLLY because of LACK OF LUBRICATION,,,,, NOT TOO MUCH!!!! Too much oil will lower your btu's and you will notice LOSS OF POWER!!!! TOO MUCH OIL ( like throwing oil into the fuel) is a GOOD THING..(FOR THE MOST PART) I CAN GET INTO THE "THEATRICS" OF IT,, BUT YOU WOULDN'T UNDERSTAND.... a brand new SLED WITH A MOUTHFUL OF 2 STROKE OIL IN THE FULL TANK OF GAS IS A good idea,,,, BUT IT IS not necessary ON A RERING JOB.... IF YOU ARE using synthetic OIL TO BREAKIN A RERING JOB.. iF YOU ARE USEING yamalube,,, A MOUTHFUL IN THE TANK IS A good thing (BECAUSE yamalube is junk to begin with!!!) SO YOU SEE,,,,, ITS A TOUCHY THING WITH ME.... why PEOPLE USE YAMALUBE HAS BEEN EXPLAINED TO ME A WEEK AGO.. tHIS SLEDDER RODE AROUND 5000 MILES A YEAR AND THE PRICE OF SYNTHETICS IN CANADA IS CRAZY!!! it would cost him another 600.00 a year to run synthetics compared to WALMART brand YAMALUBE!!! After 2 years he buys another sled,,, so PLEASE don't buy his sled with 10,000 miles with WAL MART LUBE!!!! I SEE HIS POINT!!!!! Use synthetics,,, ESPECIALLY during BREAKIN!!!! ( and ALSO when you bring home that NEW 2007 sled!!!!) start with synthetics and keep it up!!!! One of these days You'll thank me!!! gary Oles nosboy
 
synthetic oil has been around as long as SINTERED metal (yammie) pistons has been around!!!!!! YAMMIE has used synthetic oil in their race dirt bikes with sintered metal pistons since the EARLY 1970's!!!! How long do you think amsoil has been around????? maybe 1972 or 1973?????? something like that... Esterlube has been around since 1974 or 1975....... MOLY DISULFIDE and syntheitc oils have been used in the military since the 1940's... molydi has been in existence since ww2!!!! the govt has been using synthetic oil in their jet motors since jet motors came out!!!! Just because they didnt make it for SLEDS until recently (30 years ago) (remember KLOTZ SUPER TECHNIPLATE?????) doesn't mean that its a NEW THING!!!!! DUH!!!!! Gary Oles nosboy
 
Please forgive me if I seem a LITTLE IGNORANT today,,,, I'm usually a LITTLE IGNORANT EVERYDAY!!!! thats just my nature!!!! (my parents must have "screwed up" raising me)!!!!! Selo yrag!!!! (thats Gary Oles backwards)
 
I agree with some of the stuff esp. the breaking in without your motor being under a load such as jacking the rear up and breaking in that way. I wont be doing that. But the NO SYN. OIL issue thats on that page you posted is for STREET BIKES which then your talking 4 strokes which is a whole new ball game. All the talk on that page you posted is for 4 strokes there is absolutely no talk of any 2 strokes on that page.
 
Gary I love your Ignorance, makes me laugh and you get your point across. Which is very helpful and fun to read so keep on, keeping on.
 
Here you go,,,(this is the trick) start your new rering job for the first time and spend about 15 seconds keeping it around 2000 rpm...bring up the rpms to around 7000 and back it down to 1500-2000... take a couple of seconds to bring it up to 7000 and a couple of seconds to bring it down to 2000... DO THIS around a DOZEN times and SHUT the motor off.... wait a couple of minutes to let the temperatures even out a little more and then RETORQUE EVERYTHING!!!! The worst thing you could do is keep the motor at a certain rpm for ANY LENGTH of time during initial break in!!!! Up and down, up and down,, AFTER you have retorqued the motor,,, LET THE MOTOR COOL DOWN TO COLD!!!!! This is VERY IMPORTANT!!!! You don't want to get the motor TOO HOT and you DO want to fluctuate the rpm's CONSTANTLY during INITIAL breakin!!!! After the motor has cooled down for an hour or two,,, Start it up again and do the same thing.. up to 7000 (taking a few seconds to get there) and down to 2000 (taking a few seconds to get there too).. Do this ANOTHER dozen times and get on the sled and ride it up to 40 miles an hour and LET THE ENGINE BRAKEING bring it down to a stop.. DO NOT use the brake if possible!!! You want to keep the sled going to 40 or 50 mph and down to zero about a dozen times.. That breaks in the thrust surfaces on the piston skirts. (the acceleration and deceleration) LOADS UP AND PULLS DOWN!!! After you have done the "road test" to break in the motor,,get it back home (remember up and down) and shut it off when you get home.. Give the sled about 5 minutes to "balance" the hot parts and RETORQUE AGAIN!!!!! RETORQUEING IS ALMOST the most important part!!!! LET THE SLED COOL DOWN AGAIN,,,, Start it up, WARM IT UP, and go for a NICE RIDE with your buddies... The motor will be BROKEN IN JUST FINE, the major and minor thrust surfaces will be PERFECT and you will enjoy MANY MILES with your NEW RERING JOB!!!! Don't take it out the first day and try and make the "lake speed record" just yet... DRIVE IT EASY,,, don't beat the hell out of it till TOMORROW!!!!! There ya go!!!! HAPPY TRAILS!!!! Gary Oles nosboy
 
I dont understand???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????I am talking about 2 stroke VIPER motors!!!!!!
 
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