2ooosrx
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yamyrider
Active member
hahaha we all get so testostarony this time of year...we need snow
yamahaha
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I have a set of PI ceramic coated pipes that go into the stock canister, which is good because everyone on this site has said that the stock can makes more power than any aftermarket can, plus stock quiet. Also have adapters for heat probes....if someone is interested get a hold of me....sold the srx so don't have any use for them
hwilson@flbsd.mb.ca
hwilson@flbsd.mb.ca
Srxspec
Your #1 performance shop!
Where's your graph of the stock pipes to go with that graph? I've heard and seen of more than one 2000-2001 SRX dyno within 1-2 hp of what that graph shows. I'm not trying to bash. A dyno can be made to read whatever it wants. Do a before and after test on the same day and post the results. That's the only true way to show performance gains!
Last edited:
mrviper700
VIP Lifetime Member
This is just me looking in at reading all this information you have posted, what I see is that you need to go out and do some tuning!! If you removed all this weight from this sled via 18lbs pipes, 35lbs or what ever alum. front end all this stuff, belt drive, roller secondary etc. etc. this sled should be a whole lot faster, its a whole lot lighter now right??, removing alot of weight is no differnt then making more power with the motor, it will go faster((power to weight ratio)). So being that your not going any faster then you did last year when you were posting you were undefeated and so fast, I would go back out and do a little tuning before I posted about all the great things you have incorporated in your sled ( Dont get me wrong, Alot of them are very neat!!) and its gained nothing.
With the dyno sheets you post, remember 1 thing you have no idea of the conditions or the actual sled used to produce that sheet, pipe temps,coolant temp of engine, correction factors, relative humidty, air density, all play a major rolein what numbers you can put on a sheet!! you need to do it on YOUR motor the same day to actually do a comparison, this is what srxspec is trying to explain.
With the dyno sheets you post, remember 1 thing you have no idea of the conditions or the actual sled used to produce that sheet, pipe temps,coolant temp of engine, correction factors, relative humidty, air density, all play a major rolein what numbers you can put on a sheet!! you need to do it on YOUR motor the same day to actually do a comparison, this is what srxspec is trying to explain.
yamahaha
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M performance is I'm sure a credible dyno operator so it wouldn't matter if he dynoed in the middle of summer or the cold of winter because he would have the hp printed with correction factors in place. The only thing that matters is long as the sled is the same and not dynoed a long time later or after being re-ringed etc.
2ooosrx
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I understand everything that everyone is saying about testing the pipes on my sled. I realize this is the only way to find out the HP change. The reason I purchased these pipes was absolutely not for performance. I got these pipes for the sound, and weight. I was just looking for pipes that had potentially equal HP as the stockers. As for all my weight savings, When I did these runs on the radar, we had the chain drive on the sled because the belt drive was not finished yet so that weigh savings was not included. The only weight savings my sled has right now are the front end and pipes and some other aluminum parts else where but nothing big. This comes in at about 40 pounds. I weighed my sled just before we left with all fluids in it and about ~ 3/8 tank of gas and it weighed in at 543.2 pounds. I don't think that a otherwise stock sled pulling a 123 is that bad. I will try to get more info and comparisons with these pipes later in the year as I said but from observation so far, the pipes are performing very well and up to my expectations.
pro116
Lifetime VIP Member
Hey Matt what gearing are you running?
2ooosrx
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During the radar I was running stock gearing so it would be 23/38. When I run the belt drive, my gearing is going to be 25/40 which is a little more orientated to the topspeed.
sxviper32
New member
matt is your motor ported? if not, are you going to get it ported?
2ooosrx
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Motor is not ported, I will not port it unless I win the port kit from race logic for the tech section.
2ooosrx
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Here is that sound clip you guys have been asking for, as always, it sounds better in person.
http://www.snowmobilefanatics.com/gallery/_Images/Member%20Videos/General/20061213195851_4775.wmv
http://www.snowmobilefanatics.com/gallery/_Images/Member%20Videos/General/20061213195851_4775.wmv
pro116
Lifetime VIP Member
pipes
Guys I was on Rib lake last weekend and the sled does sound sweet.It sounds better when there's aload on the motor.
Guys I was on Rib lake last weekend and the sled does sound sweet.It sounds better when there's aload on the motor.
flying yami
New member
sweet sound man
DoktorC
Member
Our '99 SRX with a very minor trail port (like MINOR!!..kinda like matching the 2000+ cylinder) made 158hp @8500 on Iantomasi's Dyno..The pipes make power there is no doubt or they wouldn't have been on our sled. Our pipes did have the single can with a restrictor in the outlet to build heat. 2000..I think you need some setup time with the sled, not that 123 is anything to sneeze at (It's not that big of a power difference!!) especially with a Viper suspension under it!
Give the guy a break!
Give the guy a break!
2ooosrx
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Single Can? Was that custom made for you?
DoktorC
Member
Nope...that how it came. It's much quieter..but sounds the same..if you know what I mean.
2ooosrx
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Was the can made by Power Inc aswell and I am a little confused on how it built heat, I just got some pipe wrap today from pro116 and put whatever I had on it. Hopefully this helps and I wrapped the pipes mainly where they do their big bend in the front of the sled. Good location? Thanks
DoktorC
Member
The can was built by PI..the restrictor was added to help build heat quickly.
2ooosrx
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thanks,
Anyone have any comments on where I placed the majority of the pipe wrap? It is placed right in the front of the pipes where they make thier "U" bend. I did this because I figured that most of the cold air from the hood vents would hit right there. I also put a little on the fat part of the pipe that sits on the top and hits alot of wind. Thanks
Anyone have any comments on where I placed the majority of the pipe wrap? It is placed right in the front of the pipes where they make thier "U" bend. I did this because I figured that most of the cold air from the hood vents would hit right there. I also put a little on the fat part of the pipe that sits on the top and hits alot of wind. Thanks