By looking at those charts you see the clutch shift line???, say the 8bu-00 for example, it falls off on topend, you see it noseing over? it doesnt supply the needed force to clamp the belt on topend, and if we look at the profile of the weight we can see the weight has no tip weight, so without adding multi angle helix into the mix to confuse you, it would have less topend speed then a weight with a straight line on the chart such as a 8dn-20. These are the basics.
Before someone argu's that the force is differnt, you have to always remember that the weight thats heavier applies more force, even though it may not provide the force in the right area of the shift curve. What this means is a 48 gram weight will show you more force then a 38 gram weight will but the 38 gram weight CAN OUTPERFORM the heavier weight in a given section of the shift curve and vice versa.
When you add in multi angled helixs you can change only some of the characteristics of the good/bad things about a weight, like some want to say that you can get good topend from a 8bu-00 or 8ca/8ab style weight and you can.......... but only to a point, a 5 gram point! You cant win the radar top speed contest with a weight with no tip profile, you can add weight out there but only to a point...... and using a shallow finish helix angle will get you even CLOSER to a better top speed, BUT, No matter what you add, you still cant make up for the correct weight profile to begin with. Basicly a multi helix allow you further fine tuning of a weight profile for the desired result.
The first number on the helix is the upshift speed , so a larger number on the beginning of a helix means it upshifts faster. Now heres where you can get easily confused, the helix upshifts faster but also provides less clamping power to the belt because of the bigger angle, this in turn requires a stronger spring to provide the extra clamping power to hang onto the belt. Stiffer springs eat up power, they are providing resistance to NOT upshift the clutch's! springs are a completely differnt post and discussion, I am trying to keep this very basic to give you a idea, and let you run with your own ideas.
The helix spread between the first and second numbers is a matter of personal preferance. I like big spreads ,others dont. The thing to remember in clutching is theres more then 1 way to skin a cat, and you can have 3 differnt set ups, that will accomplish the same speed or elapsed time in a given distance, but 1 will do something better then the others somewhere in the shift curve! Its testing the set ups and good notes that guide you to getting the best result for your paticular need!
correct clutching is the recipe of correct profile weights for the type of terrain going to be run in, the correct matching springs,helix angles and then the mixture of it all to get a good clean straight shift curve from beginning to end.