chilli
New member
I am confident that I can handle this job, as I am very mechanically inclined, and have a compressor and tools
That being said, what part of the track swap will cause me the most problems?? I have printed the track change guide from the tech section, but am just looking for a HEADS UP on what areas may cause me problems?
I have read stories about the driveshaft bearing being a bitch?? thoughts on this?
From those who have done it, what areas should I look out for, with regards to running into potential snags?
As usual, thanks in advance for the info!
That being said, what part of the track swap will cause me the most problems?? I have printed the track change guide from the tech section, but am just looking for a HEADS UP on what areas may cause me problems?
I have read stories about the driveshaft bearing being a bitch?? thoughts on this?
From those who have done it, what areas should I look out for, with regards to running into potential snags?
As usual, thanks in advance for the info!
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
I had a hell of a time with mine last summer,there was alot of 
going on I'll tell you.Yes bearing was a little hard to get off but managed it.Removing the gears and the brake was giving me some static to.I was working on a 90 degree day to which didn't help much.Then lining up the bolts on the suspension was really pissing me off. Other guys will tell you there stories and tips I am sure. Don't want to do this type of replacement of track to often I'll tell you.Just take your time,if you get frustrated at one point,drop everything and walk away and cool off.Go back later or next day and continue again.If I could do it anyone can,and nothing has blown up on me all last season...so that says something...eh!
GOOD LUCK THERE.
going on I'll tell you.Yes bearing was a little hard to get off but managed it.Removing the gears and the brake was giving me some static to.I was working on a 90 degree day to which didn't help much.Then lining up the bolts on the suspension was really pissing me off. Other guys will tell you there stories and tips I am sure. Don't want to do this type of replacement of track to often I'll tell you.Just take your time,if you get frustrated at one point,drop everything and walk away and cool off.Go back later or next day and continue again.If I could do it anyone can,and nothing has blown up on me all last season...so that says something...eh!GOOD LUCK THERE.
SLEDuluth
New member
- Joined
- Aug 28, 2006
- Messages
- 22
The only reason it's a big job is because there are so many steps (so much to disassemble/reassemble). Since it's your first time doing it you may want to label the parts you're removing and where they should go back together. Other than that, putting the skid back in is the only part that might give you trouble.
Keep an eye on the reinforcing plates on the tunnel to make sure the skid doesn't get caught on them when you're trying to line up the bolt holes. That was the only thing that gave me a headache.
Keep an eye on the reinforcing plates on the tunnel to make sure the skid doesn't get caught on them when you're trying to line up the bolt holes. That was the only thing that gave me a headache.
chilli
New member
sounds good!
Ya, as for documentation, I always take tons of pics, and I will label everything for sure....Wehn I lowered my car, my attention to detail (pics and notes) saved a tonn of frustration when putting all the coilovers back in the car
Ya, as for documentation, I always take tons of pics, and I will label everything for sure....Wehn I lowered my car, my attention to detail (pics and notes) saved a tonn of frustration when putting all the coilovers back in the car
Brake can be a PITA. Other than that its a piece of cake. I have it down to a 2-3hr process.
The only major stumbling point I ran into last year was the bearing under the speedometer pickup. I ended up using alot of WD-40 and had to but a small puller from the hardware store. Other than that it was just alot of disassembly, I flipped the brake up out of the way and don't remember fighting it at all, though some have.
bluelightning
New member
ejcamaro said:
i ran into the same problem...and had to do the same thing lol
if you are even slightly mechanically inclined you should have no problem doing it. I had to replace the chain case bearings, so needless to say the whole rear skid had to come out. my only major issue was trying to get the rear skid back in...took a lot of muscling and swearing to line up the middle 2 bolts!!! but then again i probably missed some stupid easy trick that hopefully someone will clue you in on or you will figure out on your own!
at first i was intimidated by the process, but with slight mechanical ability u will be fine....and you will definately have a sense of accomlishment afterward (nothing like raggin on your buddies who send their sleds out to get worked on!)
While the rear skid is out check all the bushings/pivot points for play. Mine seemed good until I relived some of the preload on the w arm by loosing limiter straps. The bushings on the front of the skid seem to take more abuse than on the rear.
Replace all those worn bushings. Better yet just replace all of them.
I had trouble with the speedo key, was stuck in there pretty good.
Whole process is an easy 2-3 hours. Not too hard, just time consuming.
Replace all those worn bushings. Better yet just replace all of them.
I had trouble with the speedo key, was stuck in there pretty good.
Whole process is an easy 2-3 hours. Not too hard, just time consuming.
I agree...not hard but time consuming. I put on a new ripsaw this fall.
Mine went fairly smooth. I had a buddy help me put the rear suspension back in. Between the two of us we were able to line up the middle holes. If you are doing it alone just use a Cargo strap (Ratchet tie down) and compress the rear shock. You dont have to compress it much and you will see that the holes line up easy after that.
Good Luck.
Mine went fairly smooth. I had a buddy help me put the rear suspension back in. Between the two of us we were able to line up the middle holes. If you are doing it alone just use a Cargo strap (Ratchet tie down) and compress the rear shock. You dont have to compress it much and you will see that the holes line up easy after that.
Good Luck.
chilli
New member
Great!!
Thanks for all the replies!!
A buddy of mine is going to help me out, so even better...
Thanks for all the replies!!
A buddy of mine is going to help me out, so even better...
Rambunctious
New member
one huge trick i learned from a buddy after struggling with the suspension trying to reasemble, using a jack, blocks, ropes, throwing of wrenches etc.
tip: tip the sled onto it's side. the suspension drops in. and you can manipulate it easily to line up the bolts.
unbelieveably easy compared to strugglingwith the hyfax and boggies againstthe inside track lugs, skid weight, etc.
and I did not have to dis assemble the brake to get the drive shaft out.
Ramb
tip: tip the sled onto it's side. the suspension drops in. and you can manipulate it easily to line up the bolts.
unbelieveably easy compared to strugglingwith the hyfax and boggies againstthe inside track lugs, skid weight, etc.
and I did not have to dis assemble the brake to get the drive shaft out.
Ramb
Mark / C&C PowerSports
New member
a buddy and i jsut finish installing my 136 in my SXR and it seemed like the track swap was going to be a nightmare, heres a few tips that worked for me 1- after getting the suspension out and get your chain case apart, we did it without toucking the brakes or anything, jsut pull the gears and chain, take the cir-clip out from infront of the drive bearing, and on the other side i took the speedo needle out and set it aside, cut the 2 rivets that hold the backer for the bearing, ----the worst part is beating the chaincase bearing out, it took me all of 30 mins of nothing but beating to get it out, after that its all smooth untill 2- when putting the skid back in, loosen the transfer rod bolts to the point where they almost fall out, then put the front 2 bolts in, then the rear 2, after that, the middle shaft you should be able to roll it right into place, other than that its not bad...jsut my 02
Just put my skid back in last night after installing a new track myself. I used some of the advise posted in this thread. Did it myself, would have been a little easier with a buddy. Here's what helped me.
Make sure rear axle nut is loosed and tensioner nuts have been loosed up on rear axle.
Use ratetching tie downs to compress the front shock of the skid.
Use a bungee cord to open up the track. Sling the bungee over the seat and hook it through the windows on the track above where the two upper idler wheels will be approx. when assembled.
Wrestle the skid into the track. Insert the back of the skid first, try and get it into the track little at a time. Don't go for broke and try and insert those rear idlers into their final resting place.
Once the back is in work the front in. Then go back to the back and slide it in some more. Go back to the front and repeat over and over and over until it's in.
Remove tie downs and bungees.
When using jack make sure skid is lined up to freely lift into the tunnel. Don't force it in, it should slide right up. GO slow and make sure skid is clear to go up. Also make sure the top of the w-arm will pass by, up and over, the drive sprokets.
Use a jack to lift the front of the skid until the front is lined up to insert bolts. Insert bolts and tighten to spec.
Remove jack from front and head to her rear end. Lift, line up holes, insert bolts, and tighten.
As posted make sure the bolts on the transfer rods are way loose. Now for the middle.
I used a jack and a 2x4 to lift the middle up into position. One side at a time. Only because the jack wouldn't go up high as I needed it to.
Adjust alignment and track tension.
It was a piece of cake to get the holes to line up using the jack. Tough part was getting the skid into the track.
Make sure rear axle nut is loosed and tensioner nuts have been loosed up on rear axle.
Use ratetching tie downs to compress the front shock of the skid.
Use a bungee cord to open up the track. Sling the bungee over the seat and hook it through the windows on the track above where the two upper idler wheels will be approx. when assembled.
Wrestle the skid into the track. Insert the back of the skid first, try and get it into the track little at a time. Don't go for broke and try and insert those rear idlers into their final resting place.
Once the back is in work the front in. Then go back to the back and slide it in some more. Go back to the front and repeat over and over and over until it's in.
Remove tie downs and bungees.
When using jack make sure skid is lined up to freely lift into the tunnel. Don't force it in, it should slide right up. GO slow and make sure skid is clear to go up. Also make sure the top of the w-arm will pass by, up and over, the drive sprokets.
Use a jack to lift the front of the skid until the front is lined up to insert bolts. Insert bolts and tighten to spec.
Remove jack from front and head to her rear end. Lift, line up holes, insert bolts, and tighten.
As posted make sure the bolts on the transfer rods are way loose. Now for the middle.
I used a jack and a 2x4 to lift the middle up into position. One side at a time. Only because the jack wouldn't go up high as I needed it to.
Adjust alignment and track tension.
It was a piece of cake to get the holes to line up using the jack. Tough part was getting the skid into the track.
Rambunctious
New member
i did everything nickleuci mentions....
and those are definitely helpful hints,
but if you tip the sled on it's side, gravity goes away, you can move the track around with one hand and literally drip the skid in......
and those are definitely helpful hints,
but if you tip the sled on it's side, gravity goes away, you can move the track around with one hand and literally drip the skid in......
putting the sled on it's side so the skid would drop in would have made the job very easy, mine was already propped up and I didn't have a way to twist it on it's side without help, next time I will make sure I have a second pair of hands and do the sideways install.
thanks
thanks
The thing that scares me about tipping the sled on the side is that you put the bolts in one side and then have to roll the sled over to the other with only half the bolts in.
chilli
New member
Blkhwkbob said:
Thats what I was thinking...i guess you put the one side in loose, then do the other, and tighten all at once.
I'll have a buddy helping too, so he or I can lift the back while one turns it from side to side.
I wont be using my sled anytiome soon now anyways...If you saw my pics from last week (http://www.ontariosledheads.com/showthread.php?t=12), I was riding in over 1 foot of fluff and in -15 temps...now...For the last 3 days, rain!!! and more to come......Global warming anyone?
Good thing I bought that trail pass!
No worries..............you don't have to put the bolts in with the sled on it's side, just get that damn skid in the track and tip it back. You will need a buddy.
chilli
New member
WELL, it has started..the track is out, and I need to start replacing bearings.
Have a look at the driveshaft bearing housing in the chaincase.....that browen stuff is cooked oil.....so obviouslty the bearing was geting hot.
A few questions........
In order to get the TOP driveshaft out of the chaincase cover, is it just a matter of removing the circlips?
Do I replace both the upper and lower bearings from the chaincase?
On the speedo side, what about the bearing that I had to pull off (that has the 2 set screws)?? Is the collar pressed in, or does that get replaced as 1 assembly?
I am concerned that my chaoncase is cracked....it looks like it was repaired properly...cuz I never lost any fluid....but are they expensinve?
Are the chain cases common to more than just the SRX?
As always, thanks for all the replies!
Have a look at the driveshaft bearing housing in the chaincase.....that browen stuff is cooked oil.....so obviouslty the bearing was geting hot.
A few questions........
In order to get the TOP driveshaft out of the chaincase cover, is it just a matter of removing the circlips?
Do I replace both the upper and lower bearings from the chaincase?
On the speedo side, what about the bearing that I had to pull off (that has the 2 set screws)?? Is the collar pressed in, or does that get replaced as 1 assembly?
I am concerned that my chaoncase is cracked....it looks like it was repaired properly...cuz I never lost any fluid....but are they expensinve?
Are the chain cases common to more than just the SRX?
As always, thanks for all the replies!
Last edited:
Not sure about the circlips on the jackshaft (upper driveshaft), I've never done one, but I'm sure someone knows.
I'd do both bearings in the chaincase, especially because you know you cooked the oil. The bearing by the speedo(called the driveshaft bearing) is one piece, you should replace that as well, about $39 from dealer, ouch!, Save the acutal set screws if you do replace it, when I bought the new bearing there were no set screw in it!.
I would think chaincases are going to be the same for all the non-reverse yamaha's 700 triples 97-0?, machines that came with reverse will have a different one though. Again maybe someone can confirm??
I'd do both bearings in the chaincase, especially because you know you cooked the oil. The bearing by the speedo(called the driveshaft bearing) is one piece, you should replace that as well, about $39 from dealer, ouch!, Save the acutal set screws if you do replace it, when I bought the new bearing there were no set screw in it!.
I would think chaincases are going to be the same for all the non-reverse yamaha's 700 triples 97-0?, machines that came with reverse will have a different one though. Again maybe someone can confirm??