yammerhammer
New member
Stator died and I need to get the flywheel off to replace it. It's stuck
on there. I used a puller but it pulled the threads out of the flywheel.
Any Ideas? Will heat mess up the seals on the crank? I don't want to have
to pull the motor out to get it off but...
on there. I used a puller but it pulled the threads out of the flywheel.
Any Ideas? Will heat mess up the seals on the crank? I don't want to have
to pull the motor out to get it off but...
you must not have had enuff thread engagement on the holes, I would retap the holes and get bolts long enuff that will engage all the threads in there. Are you using like a steering wheel type puller with 3 bolts threaded in flywheel?
heat isnt going to do anything but cook the crank seal, thats a taper fit with a keyway.
heat isnt going to do anything but cook the crank seal, thats a taper fit with a keyway.
Hi man!
Do like mrviper sais. If the threads are really busted then you might have to go up a little on the hole size/bolt diameter.
What kind of puller are you using?.
I`ve never had a stock puller, I make them out of a thick iron plate, drill three holes that match the ones in the flywheel and then use bolts to pull the flywheel.
The stupid thing is that you can turn the bolt around to increase the force because the more you turn the bolt the longer in it will come and eventually it will hit the crankcase. Therefore you have to use nuts on the bolts to tighten them.
Here`s a pic:
Do like mrviper sais. If the threads are really busted then you might have to go up a little on the hole size/bolt diameter.
What kind of puller are you using?.
I`ve never had a stock puller, I make them out of a thick iron plate, drill three holes that match the ones in the flywheel and then use bolts to pull the flywheel.
The stupid thing is that you can turn the bolt around to increase the force because the more you turn the bolt the longer in it will come and eventually it will hit the crankcase. Therefore you have to use nuts on the bolts to tighten them.
Here`s a pic:
yammerhammer
New member
I use a Binford 6100 3 bolt puller. lol j/k
It's a Snap-On 3 position puller. I had the bolts all the way in, only one thread gave out.
Holy Moly Kimoaj, THATS and Binford 6100 puller right there!
It's a Snap-On 3 position puller. I had the bolts all the way in, only one thread gave out.
Holy Moly Kimoaj, THATS and Binford 6100 puller right there!
daman
New member
yammerhammer said:
LOL.....no kidding, never bend that sucker!!!!
try this trick.
once you have the puller on and tight by hand (helps prevent stripped holes). take a punch or drift and hit the flywheel where the washer/nut sits. use a hammer on the punch (i forget details some times). this will not damage your crank seals as heat would. this gives it a little "shock" which makes it pop free more easily.
you could also just leave the puller on it hand tight (no impacts) overnight. i have heard of a few coming off this way.
i peronally have used the hammer and punch metod in conjunction with the puller and it has never failed me yet.
once you have the puller on and tight by hand (helps prevent stripped holes). take a punch or drift and hit the flywheel where the washer/nut sits. use a hammer on the punch (i forget details some times). this will not damage your crank seals as heat would. this gives it a little "shock" which makes it pop free more easily.
you could also just leave the puller on it hand tight (no impacts) overnight. i have heard of a few coming off this way.
i peronally have used the hammer and punch metod in conjunction with the puller and it has never failed me yet.
FuzzButt
New member
Air chisel with a hammer bit might help as well. You need to overcome the rust holding the keyway.