Vmax Al
New member
Recently rebuilt my rear suspension when I stretched it to a 136", now I seem to have limited travel?
I am only getting about 4" of bumper travel, seems to lock up when the transfer rods bottom out. What could I have possibly done?
Removed rear shock and it compresses properly, but it seems to be in that linkage since when I removed it I could collapse the suspension.
Any guesses?
I am only getting about 4" of bumper travel, seems to lock up when the transfer rods bottom out. What could I have possibly done?
Removed rear shock and it compresses properly, but it seems to be in that linkage since when I removed it I could collapse the suspension.
Any guesses?
xsivhp
Active member
check that the bar at the bottom of the rear arm is forward and not into the idler wheels in the skid?? Just a guess, good luck. xs
Vmax Al
New member
Nope, that bar is in the proper location. Seems fine until it comes time for the connection at the front of the rear shock to rotate, where the full rate adjuster is and then it won't? Almost like the shock/spring won't compress, but I pulled them and I know they do?
Take the spring off the shock, compress the suspention and see where the problem is. Just a thaught.
sandmanmike1
New member
You can cycle the suspension without the shock. Can be dangerous removing the spring without the proper tools.
Yes but he said there was no problem with the shock removed. Back the spring adjuster off and remove the spring. Can't see how it would be dangerous.
Vmax Al
New member
I removed the shock/spring and then removed the spring. When you loosen the adjuster completely there is no load on the spring. I get full travel with the shock removed. Seems that the part #48 is not pivoting? I did have an issue when installing the suspension and I tried to compress the shock with a rachet strap, I bent the two arms #77 but I straighened and reinstalled.
I do see upon review of the drawing that I am missing the two outside washers #73 so maybe the head of the bolt is biting into the brkt.? Will try that next, but I am pretty sure I attempted to compress the suspension with bolt #70 loose and had the same problem.
I do see upon review of the drawing that I am missing the two outside washers #73 so maybe the head of the bolt is biting into the brkt.? Will try that next, but I am pretty sure I attempted to compress the suspension with bolt #70 loose and had the same problem.
Attachments
i bet you have the fra in backward, this is no 48
bluewho
Active member
The exploded view shows shows the proper way it should be installed and note on middle setting the linkage should be straight up down. Are you using the same shocks or are you going with longer ones.
gild
New member
coupling
I have the same problem, I just installed a new tunnel and it binds when it couples. I think the two rear mount points are off. I loosened the front shock off and its better but I know the distance from bolt 57 to top of tunnel is slightly different. Keep this post alive thanks
I have the same problem, I just installed a new tunnel and it binds when it couples. I think the two rear mount points are off. I loosened the front shock off and its better but I know the distance from bolt 57 to top of tunnel is slightly different. Keep this post alive thanks
bluewho
Active member
When installing the proaction with the sled on a lift place front bolts first than the middle tighton. Raise track with a jack untill rear holes line up.If they do not!!! Undo bottom bolts on transfer rods and let them become longer ! The rear holes should line up without haveing to undue them anymore than 1/8 to 1/4 thats with the small spacer on bottom .There should be no pulling or strapping the sizzors for install of this skid and adjusters are backed right off.Problems might arise with a longer rear shock if part #77 is not the proper lenth for the shock applyed causing you to compress the shock to reach the old lenth.# 77 keeps the shock from overextending and starts the compression when sitting on the seat.A problem with binding after long tracking and still using the same shocks and springs could be due to over tighting spring for a hieght that you felt would be better for a long track?I have swaped rails on my proaction with rails that had no referance points other than the rear axle and can say you cant go out of spec on the mounting measurments.
gild
New member
rear skid
What you are saying is if the rear mount hole doesn't line up move the rear mount towards the centre mount to make the space on the bottom of the transfer rods smaller? About how thick is that shim on the bottom?
What you are saying is if the rear mount hole doesn't line up move the rear mount towards the centre mount to make the space on the bottom of the transfer rods smaller? About how thick is that shim on the bottom?
Gild if the rear holes aren't exactly the same distance from the center as they where stock. it will bind. been there done that. Maxdlx
bluewho
Active member
The shim washer is 1/8 thick yes i am saying if it will not line up and every thing is proper you should have to only take a little tenshon off the control rod bottoms to install the rear top axle bolts. Than retighton them and you will have a little preload on your rear sizzor. That is a referance point for play when you are on the sled and transfer rods are trying to bottom out.You will have a gap to transfer wieght back to the front skis when on the brake or off the gas.That is the bottom gap and will change if you lift front end with springs or taller spindles.The top gap is for transfer the other way and will improve if you run 1 3/4 gap for deeper snow.gild looking at your piks i dont see any gap at all in your transfer rods i would try undueing the bottom bolts alltogether and than stand on the bumper.The rails look like they are 98 or 99 style were the rods are bolted to close to the rear axle causing poor transfer.gild said:
gild
New member
rear skid
I'll recheck the mount point between the centre and rear mount points as Maxdlx advised. Bluewho I do have a gap but it is on dollies in the picture. Off the dollies I'm sitting right in the middle with no weight which probably can be adjusted by spring adj on rear shock but it will still bind stiffer.I am going to check it out more tomorrow and will take both your advice to fix this .I'll keep you posted.
Thanks Merry Christmas
Gild
I'll recheck the mount point between the centre and rear mount points as Maxdlx advised. Bluewho I do have a gap but it is on dollies in the picture. Off the dollies I'm sitting right in the middle with no weight which probably can be adjusted by spring adj on rear shock but it will still bind stiffer.I am going to check it out more tomorrow and will take both your advice to fix this .I'll keep you posted.
Thanks Merry Christmas
Gild
Vmax Al
New member
I am using Viper shocks, which were fine before long tracking.
I haven't tested loading it on the floor, only with the front and rear up on saw horses, would loading it only at the rear axle cause it to not couple properly? I should receive my skis today and then I can have the sled on the floor and try it.
Thanks for the tips
I haven't tested loading it on the floor, only with the front and rear up on saw horses, would loading it only at the rear axle cause it to not couple properly? I should receive my skis today and then I can have the sled on the floor and try it.
Thanks for the tips
gild
New member
screwed up
I checked the mounting as Maxdlx said and it was very close, about 1/16" -1/8" load and checked all the measurements again which were right on. On being a dummy and forgetting that this is a longtracked 01 SXr I forgot the Transfer rods are different with the MMax rod having more upper gap.The upper bushing stopper is 54 mm (2.125 of an inch) closer to the upper idler wheels on a MMax compared to a SXr causing my bind problem. Thanks to all for the help HO! HO! HO! to the Big Guy!
Gild
I checked the mounting as Maxdlx said and it was very close, about 1/16" -1/8" load and checked all the measurements again which were right on. On being a dummy and forgetting that this is a longtracked 01 SXr I forgot the Transfer rods are different with the MMax rod having more upper gap.The upper bushing stopper is 54 mm (2.125 of an inch) closer to the upper idler wheels on a MMax compared to a SXr causing my bind problem. Thanks to all for the help HO! HO! HO! to the Big Guy!
Gild
Vmax Al
New member
Got the skis on and moved the sled from saw horses to the floor and issue went away. Doesn't make complete sense to me since wouldn't it have the same action on a hard tail landing? Anyway, I am confident everything is ok, now I just need some snow to test on!!!!!!!
I was going to mention unhooking the rods and see what happends. Sounded more like rods....was too slow at responce tho 
Al, sawhorses are for horse's to put there saws on, not snowmobiles.
Al, sawhorses are for horse's to put there saws on, not snowmobiles.
gild
New member
coupling
When you land on the tail it couples to the front making skid stiffer. I took my couplers off and used straps instead and can say it is on the back 1 1/2 ' of my track on a climb. Downright usless for climbing, have to back off on the gas too much to keep the front end down. For weight transfer it will pull the front up a foot on takeoff with good traction. Just a few more adj. Just got skiis from Pro 116 great guy to deal with.
When you land on the tail it couples to the front making skid stiffer. I took my couplers off and used straps instead and can say it is on the back 1 1/2 ' of my track on a climb. Downright usless for climbing, have to back off on the gas too much to keep the front end down. For weight transfer it will pull the front up a foot on takeoff with good traction. Just a few more adj. Just got skiis from Pro 116 great guy to deal with.