Skidooslayer687
Member
I dunno exact rpm so sorry i cant be of help there, and theres no dam snow so i cant find out either, its at half throttle or more that it will do this
tomseal6
VIP Member
did you move the needles up a clip yet?
maxdlx
VIP Lifetime Member
the main jet wo't help there. You need oto raise the needles up 1/2 clip posistion. Maxdlx
tomseal6
VIP Member
tomseal6 said:Last SRX i had it would only detonate sometimes as well only difference was my main jets were too lean. was running 145 all the way across so sometimes the DCS would kick in on a cold morning or evening.
You can easily check the pto seal by spraying WD-40 on it at idle. If your idle changes, Than you know you have a problem. Not sure how to do it for the mag side. But I am going to put my money on your needles being set to lean. BTW? what are the temperatures when your sled does this?
AHHHHHH thats why i meant to say. GEEZ I was speaking backwards I think I am dislexic
Skidooslayer687
Member
Alright, soonest chance i get im going to go out, take the carbs off, clean them just to be sure, and then move the needles up half a clip in all of them. Then i'll have to wait and see how it performs, could be awhile but hopefully it'll snow enough where i could try it out in a field or something and get back to you guys. If its not this i dont know what it could be
Skidooslayer687
Member
Okay, so i was determined after sitting inside most of the night to go out and work on the sled, i tore the carbs off, stripped them down and cleaned them, blew the main jets out, and the pilot screws, screwed them back in, backed them off 1 and an eight turns just like the manual calls for. Then i moved onto the needles. I removed them, and all the clip positions were the same, right in the middle the standard jet position, i moved them all up one to richen it up a bit, then i put them back together. Before i put the carbs back on i checked the carb boots, i think that might have been a bit of a problem as the 4 bolts that hold the boots and reed cages on were fairly loose. Im not sure of the torque specs on these bolts at all but they were not in there tight at all. I tightened them up, and then put the carbs back on. So i guess when theres a bit of snow i'll find out if this made a difference at all, hopefully it does and the problem goes away
snowbiscuit
New member
- Joined
- Jan 30, 2004
- Messages
- 23
If you move clip up, you run leaner
Skidooslayer687
Member
I moved the clip down on the actual needle one position but that raises the needle up, therefore letting more fuel in making it richer while running on the needle circuit
Aaaand? Let's hear it!
Skidooslayer687
Member
lol im not sure yet, theres no dam snow up here, supposed to get 20 cm on tuesday so im gonna go ask the farmer up the road if i can use his field for a few test runs, when i find out i'll get back to you guys. I just wanted to thank everyone for there input into this, helped me out a lot, and hopefully has made this problem go away. This website is great. Anyways guys once again thanks a lot
mrviper700
VIP Lifetime Member
Well its ok to raise the needles up, I am doubtfull that 1 entire clip setting is going to run very well cruising in a stock engine, my bet is its going to burble quite a bit in the 45-50mph cruise section, I would say try it, but if it stumbles and bogs in the mid range cruising circuit, youll need to go a 1/2 clip setting meaning have jet needle clip in number 3 groove but place both plastic shims onder the clip, this will richen it slightly and most likely still give you good crisp response.
tomseal6
VIP Member
If a previous owner monkeyed with the needles in the past (made them leaner) I could see it being off a full clip setting. Its not very cold anywhere right now so its a possibility.
What main jets are in it right now?
What main jets are in it right now?
Skidooslayer687
Member
Main Jets are stock 2002, not sure of the numbers offhand but there the same as listed in the owners manual. I went a jet size up before and it didnt make a difference at all, just affected the performance and fuel mileage. The dcs light still flashed even when it was extremely warm out, (as in like 0 degrees celsius)
I'm sure it's mentioned before in this post, but re check carb boots for sure. Even if they don't have cracks, they can be installed incorrectly
Skidooslayer687
Member
I did check the carb boots, and reed valves when i took the carbs off to adjust the needle settings, i'm not sure of the exact torque spec on the reed cages but the bolts were not that tight, i havnt touched them yet, does anyone know what these bolts are supposed to be torqued to as i dont want to overtighten them
Skidooslayer687
Member
Anyone know the torque spec on these???
torque spec
Peddles screws are; 10lbs use blue loktite
reed cages are; 19lbs
Peddles screws are; 10lbs use blue loktite
reed cages are; 19lbs
Skidooslayer687
Member
alright thanks a lot, definately helped, they werent torqued down right, this could cause an air leak could it not?? this may be the reason why the light was coming on at high rpm, not sure 100% just an idea
hookedonblue
New member
what plugs are you using. i had a problem with mine and discovered that i had br10ecs
rather than br9ecs. its just a thought. but changing the plugs solved my problem...
rather than br9ecs. its just a thought. but changing the plugs solved my problem...
Skidooslayer687
Member
Im running br9ecs plugs in mine and there gapped properly as per the manual, i put a brand new set in every year, maybe even twice a year depending on the miles i put on