Need to remove oil from reservoir?

I use 80-100 grit BALL HONES THE SAME sizs as the cylinder.. 70mm bore=70mm hone!!!!! I DO NOT use a BIGGER 10% like people suggest!!!!! I hone with CUTTING oil!!! I USE THE SAME SIZE HONE for the SAME SIZE bore!!! NO BIGGER OR SMALLER!!!! MY MOTORS BREAK IN WITH SYNTHETIC oil RIGHT AWAY!!! I break them in using the method above.. I have done it a HUNDRED times!!!! It breaks in RIGHT AWAY,,, IT WORKS FINE!!!!! This is WHAT I DO!!!! (your results may vary) ( I had to throw that in!!!) There are guys on this website that are TOTALLY AGAINST my WAY OF DOING THIS... PLEASE BE WARNED!!!! I have been given a BAD MARK on my avitar and was ACCUSED of trying to destroy another guys motor by this forums moderator for suggesting this!!! PLEASE BE WARNED!!!!! This is the way I DO things and I AM NOT SUGGESTING THIS WAY TO ANYONE!!!!!! gary O. nosboy
 

HEAT is the biggest enemy of a freshly rebuilt motor.. The ideal thing is to get it hot real fast, and i mean by using rough grit cylinder hones and breaking it in real fast... Its kinda hard to explain,,, bear with me,,, depending on the honing job (i,e. either 120 grit stones or 320 grit stones) your honing will break it in REAL FAST,,, or,,, not so fast.. I like to break it in right away with rough stones... The key is to get it started and bring it up to 2000 rpms for a minute.. NOT KEEPING IT AT 2000 rpms but gradually bringing it up and down, lets say 1500 to 2500 for a minute to get her warmed up!!! It really doesnt make too much of a difference WHICH oil you use for the INITIAL break in because the honing job is SO ROUGH it HEATS THE HELL out of everything RIGHT AWAY!!!! Thats where synthetic oil comes into play... Considering the flash point of conventional oil and the flash point of synthetic oil, the synthetic oil has a much better chance of keeping its lubricity during INITIAL breakin (the first minute) whereas conventional oil goes UP IN SMOKE!!! When an oil goes up in smoke, it LOOSES ALL of its lubricating qualities and when an oil does that the SCRAPING of the new rings on the freshly honed cylinders will ABSOLUTELY DESTROY your cylindrical cosistency( EGG SHAPE)!!! It will also put scratches and marks in your freshly honed jugs (you wont see them, but they are there) and prematurely WORN OUT YOUR MOTOR in the first minute of running!!! The composition of piston rings nowadays will break in almost immediately (within the first few minutes) providing,,,,,, you don't get it TOO HOT (#1) and you DO NOT KEEP IT at ANY SPEED for any length or time!!! UP AND DOWN UP AND DOWN.... NEVER keep it at one speed and after the first minute of 1500 to 2500. the motor should be warmed enough (remember it will get REAL HOT REAL QUICK) to start the bringing it up to 7000 rpm's (WITHOUT THE BELT ON) and bringing it down to 1500rpms... You want to spend around 4 seconds GRADUALLY bringing it up to 7000 and spending another 4 seconds GRADUALLY bringing it down to 1500 rpm.. YOU COULD DO THAT 10 times if you want to.. THE MOST IMPORTANT PART is to SHUT THE MOTOR OFF after you went the 1500 to 7000 up and down and let it sit for about 10 minutes,, You need all the different temperatures to stabilize.. Here is where we get into a little debate,, I LOVE retorquing a motor after waiting the 10 minutes.. Retorquing while its still warm!!!! The aluminum actually expands MORE than the nikasil plating and there is definately a STRUGGLE going on in there between the dissimilar metals You will notice that FAT GASKETS will actually accept a little push on the torque wrench while o ringed and shorter bolts will actually seem even tighter.. not needing a push!!! now that your broken in,,, put the belt on it (AFTER THE MOTOR COOLED DOWN COMPLETELY) and try and drive it up to 7000-7500-8000 (around 30-40MPH) and back down to creeping.. DO NOT USE THE BRAKE to slow it down,,, let the natural drag of the sled do its thing..(it is ACTUALLY good for the motor) it teaches the piston/cyl/rings major and minor thrust surfaces!!! You want to do that about TEN TIMES and SHUT IT OFF AND LET IT GET COLD AGAIN!!! YOU CAN check the torque again (not as important as the 1st warmup) if your ANAL RETENTIVE!!!,, Take the sled out for a ride.. DO NOT DRIVE it LIKE YOU STOLE IT!!!! FASTER, slower, around turns braking,, drive it easy for the first ride,, drive it for a half hour or an hour... DO NOT get on the trail and keep it at 55MPH for a half hour!!!! Up and down,,on and off TWISTY TURNY!!!!! Bring it home and let it cool down again.. COLD not cool... Satrt it up,,,,,,LET IT WARM UP,,, and BEAT THE SHIT OUT OF HER if you want to!!! The motor DOES NOT take 500 miles to break in and the people who tell you that probably have some GOOD REEFER for sale also!!!! (if you like good reefer)..now heres they synthetic oil question,,, SYNTHETIC OIL ALWAYS lubricates BETTER than ANY conventional oil SEMI SYNTHETIC is nothing more than some synthetic additives in CONVENTIONAL MOTOR OIL!!!! ALL CONVENTIONAL motor oil since 1955 has SOME TYPE of synthetic additives in it... THERE ARE ONLY 5 OIL REFINERIES that make 2 stroke oil.. There may be a hunderd brands,,, but it comes from the 5 BIG VATS!!!!! There is only 2 companies that make anti freeze in AMERICA and 1 of them BLEW UP last year!!!! i don't know if it blew up bad enough to cease production,, but there is a DOZEN BRANDS OUT THERE!!! arent there????? USE SYNTHETIC,,, FULLY SYNTHETIC,,, NO bullshit semi additive yamagarbage!!!! (citgo CRAP) Heres the plug... I USE KLOTZ!!!.. You can use whatever oil you like,,,amsoil is FINE,,,,KLOTZ is fine also,, ANY SYNTHETIC with the jaso or the tcw-3 certification is FINE too!!! FULLY SYNTHETIC not semi citgo garbage!!! Did that answer your question??? Gary Oles nosboy

Gary thanks for your input, just getting opinions from all the guys on this site that deal with OIL and MOTORs for these sleds so I have options when the times comes.
 
I am NOT SUGGESTING this procedure in ANY WAY, shape, size, or form.. I am telling you guys,, that in my opinion,, synthetic oil is FINE to break in MY MOTORS and MY WAY of breaking them in WORKS FINE FOR ME!!! I have a bachelor of Science degree in Chemical engineering and also a Local 126 International association of MACHINISTS and AEROSPACE workers JOURNEYMAN card and STAMP BOOK and a VALID QUARTERLY CARD in my WALLET at ALL TIMES!!!! THAT doesn't necessisarily mean I know what I am doing !!! (or even know how to SPELL NECESSISARILY) Gary.O. nosboy
 
College educated and I STILL CANT figure out how to cut,copy post WHATEVER YOU DID!!!! THANKS EXPERT X VIPER!!!!! Gary.O. nosboy
 
I think Gary and Don should each create there own write up on how to break a YAMI motor in, so people can have the option from one guy to the other. Cause this issue has been brought up countless times and it could all be solved by having 2 Write Ups from each guy in the TECH PAGES. Can this be done MODERATORS???????? Cause I know it'll help me for future references.
 
I DONT DO snowmobile motors for a living.. I am pretty sure that DON DOES!!! I do sled motors for me and my friends,and an occasional g job once in a while.. DON is a LOT more versed (i like that word "versed") with snowmobile motors and nikasil cylinders than I am... PLEASE take suggestions from Don and USE MY method as a tool to help you realize that EVERYBODY doesn't do things the same way and there are people on this forum that still put gearlube in their chaincases and yamalube in their oil tanks and THEY ARE HAPPY doing it that way!!!! They think they are right and NO ONES telling them different!!! Thanks for the pat on the back Expert X Viper, it kinda makes me feel that my time on this forum is spent for something more than NAUGHT!!!! I'm just a NOT SO POOR white boy from the ghetto of Chicago, TRYING TO KEEP MINE!!! (you don't know what that means do you???) gary.O. nosboy
 
I agree with Don,, i would NEVER use a ball hone, it's to hard on the cyl.
it bounces off the sides/edges of the exh port and transfer ports and a greater chance of chip'en the Nic.

Use a 3 stone spring flex hone it'll do a better job and it'll keep the bore
straighter too vs a BH..

and i use dino to break in a motor then syn.,,it don't take that long to break
in a new motor in......

this is my $.02 and i'm stick'en to it!!!! :mrgreen:
 
Just pinch off the hose so the syn does not leave the tank, then run pre-mix with the oil you want. You'll probably have both for the first few seconds burning in your engine, but this is neglible. Personally, I'd run syn no matter what.
 
What is with running the sled without the belt on? Doesn't having the load of the belt help you break-in quicker?Please explain.
When you are getting all the air out of your cooling system, will idling your fresh rebuilt motor affect your break-in?
How bout amsoil interceptor for break-ins?
mul
 
Go ahead and use interceptor for break in. I dont believe there is anything wrong with using synthetic for break in. At most it might just take a little longer to get the rings seated with synthetic. but as others have said with modern ring compositions they seat very quickly anyway. I also use GENEROUS amounts of 10w-30 on the cylinder walls and piston skirts when i do a rebuild, so that there is lubrication immediately, even when it is being pulled over before the oil starts pumping. Never even got a fouled plug with how much oil i use.
 
mulderdad said:
Why 10w30 and not the oil you are using for break-in?
Click to expand...

I would think it would have a thicker film strength and "stick" better
untill started..

won't hurt anything.
 
Get all the AIR out of the cooling system BEFORE you start it for the first time... Remember, its not a 350 chevy motor in an old Impala!!! USUALLY a bottle of CAM LUBE or a bottle of STP engine treatment is NECESSARY to put the rebuild together.. 10w30 is ALLRIGHT ALSO!!!! If you want to use 2 stroke synthetic oil you could too!!!! As far as taking off the belt, you want to rev the motor up and down a dozen times without putting a strain on the engine.. the clutch is heavy enough to "push around" for the rings to break in properly,, i could explain it a lot better geting into the kinetic energy vs reciprocating motion vs centrifugal force,,,but,,,,LETS NOT!!! TRUST ME!!! it works well... They make a tube of stuff for breaking in cams, its caled molykote,, DO NOT USE MOLYKOTE because it will DESTROY your new ringjob!!! if you want to use a camlube for break in.. use the competetion cams stuff (red stuff that looks like red dyed STP) or STP!!! STP works the BEST!!!! ivee used it for YEARS!!! Gotta go Christmas FOOD shopping!!! seeya~
 
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