OK boys-TURK or MRVIPER...help neeeded.

I'm sorry,I misunderstood you for a second.I have 3.6 in the tip now and 3.1 in heel,but drilled a hole in middle of them to bring it down a bit.What happens if I put 4.5 in the heel,cause that is all the rivets that I have right now with me.
 
I went from .85 to 3.1(drilled out to make 2.7) which equals 5.55 increase and got rpm down from 8600 to 8400 with OEM belt.
If I now go 2.7 to 4.5 which equals 5.4 increase,should get rpm down another 200 which gives me 8200.
That's if my math works.Got nothing to lose,so I'll try tomorrow.
 
if you want your rpms down add more weight, if you want them higher take out some weight i also suggest getting some adjustable weights. whats your secondary at.???
 
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He means like Heelclickers or heavyhitters etc. OR you could try using a nut and bolt combination in your stock clutches... this would really only work if you knew the weight of the bolts. Might work but i would just go out and buy more rivets.... they're cheap.
 
I am so close again,using the 15.6 mm rollers.Yesterday was launching 8400 and wot at 8500.3.1 inner and 3,6 outer.This morning put what I had left for rivets...4.5g in the heel.It dropped the launch rpm,but a little to much.So with 4.5 g in heel and 3.6 outer I am launching 8000 and wot is only 8200 ish.So I think I'll put 3.6 in the heel when I get some and see what that does.This is with the OEM belt and wrapped to 70 in secondary.Belt not slipping...clutches aren't getting hot.Not loosing rpm in soft powder snow(ditch drifted side..virgin snow for a mile.)
 
ordered more rivets from my Dealer this am.I am close in getting my clutches just right.I ordered every size rivet there is times 9.That gives me a total of 54 rivets. for $31.00.I 'll have a lot of spare ones now and for the future.Hate when you run short of one size when you need it.It is all about testing isn't it.LOL Need to just go out and ride and forget about any more testing man.Not in a rush now because of lack of snow,but want to be ready for it and get the sled operating at it's peak.
 
At least I know my rpm's are staying up in the soft powder snow.Must be backshifting good.Just need a touch more rpm's at launch.Again will try 3.6 g inner holes.then I'll watch what is happing with wot rpm's.Should almost be dead on. My rivets should come in on Thursday.A little more testing and then it's ride...ride...ride.
 
put 3.6g in inner and left 3.6g outer.Launched at 8000-8100
WOT was 8200

put 3.1 back in inner and left 3.6g outer.Launched at 8000-8100
WOT was 8200-8250

put 2.7g in inner and left 3.6g outer. Launched at the 8200 mark
WOT was 8250-8300

left 2.7g in inner and put 3.1g in outer. Launches 8200
WOT was 8300

Can't believe it is not changing rpm's by much every time I make a change.Now I will have to try 2.7g outer to see if I can get WOT at 8500.Should I try 2.44g in outer you think.This is with secondary wrapped at 80 and the clutches are not hot to touch.I'll try 70 wrap first with my last combination to see what happens first..then will go from their.I am getting close..can feel it wanna go then bottoms out because have not reached my WOT at 8500.Again this is with the 8DN-20 weights and 15.6 rollers.
 
you most likely just need about another 10kg of primary spring shift force to be spot on with 3.6 rivets in both holes, if you want you could try a few spring shims to adjust it slightly, however it will raise the engagement speed up some as well.
Another thing comes to my mind is you say it gets "flat" feeling up top, swap to a 50/40 helix and leave the green sec spring in at 70. The "flat" feeling is from too steep of a finish angle for the sled to pull up top, by reducing the finish angle it will slow the shift down and allow the motor and clutch to work at the same rate, also allows the motor to pull more topend speed and provide better clamping force on the belt WITHOUT requiring more spring pressure in the secondary clutch.

By going with more secondary preload you will raise the rpm slightly, by going lower you will lower the rpm slightly. The main thing to watch for is to get the backshift you desire while not hampering the topspeed. The topspeed will get lowered the more secondary twist you use.
 
0ops

have clutch apart in basement.Was going to change outer rivet to 2.7 but realized it already has the 2.7 g in there.I must off screwed up somewhere.Thought on my last run I had 2.7g inner and 3.1g outer.Was launching about 8200 and wot was about 8300.Turns out I have 3.1g inner and 2.7g outer. So I guess I'll put in 2.44g in the outer to see if the wot rpm's increase closer to 8500.
 
Going back and reading all your post on this, it was spot on with the smaller rollers which are more aggressive then the larger rollers are, why woulnt you go back to the set up you had since it was spot on??? The smaller rollers apply more force to the belt then the larger ones do!
 
Everybody allways 100% of the time figures no matter how well it runs there is allways that magical clutching set up that is 1-2 lengths better. Been looking for that one for 3 years & gave up! Different set up for different conditions & on 1 day a stocker might be the way to go!
 
And this started out for me(dialing in the clutch) when I bought this sled and found that it had a over reving problem.I think I will put the 14.5mm rollers back in and what I had originally for rivets for the 8DN-20 weights.With the Ultimax 3 belt and .85 inner and 2.7 outer.There I was launching 8200 and hitting 8500 wot and the pull was wild.But it is when I changed to OEM belt..rpm's went 8600 launch and 8900 wot.I'll run the Ultimax belt till she goes then re do things when I put OEM belt on again.But if I decided to use OEM belt I probably should put 2.7g inner and 3.1 or 3.6 g outer.This is with the 14.5 rollers.Anyone need a set of 15.6 rollers?
 
I just need to ride more and less time spent on taking out the clutches.I will keep my secondary wrapped at 70 because I am being told I will get a better shift.
 
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