I have been hearing many frustrated sledders talk about this topic for over a year. It seems, that there are many who have spent countless hours taking out their clutches over and over again trying to get these things to work consistently, and reliably for their sleds. I am one of those people. Even super torquer isnt sure what to recommend. I have called many times and recieved many different answers for the same question.
There are so many great guys on these forums trying to help us with these things. But many do not tell you where the set ups work best. Just look at the Ty clutching set up forum. you will be blown away as to how many vastly different set ups there for an srx 700 with hc weights, there seems to be one major piece of the puzzle missing. the conditions where the suggested set ups can and cannot work well in. eg is a mountain set up going to be the same as a drag or aggressive trail set up? do we give enough info to make a real good suggestion for helix angles for the srx with hc weights?
I agree a 50 36 or other multi angle helix in theory should be perfect to keep that hole shot and maintain top speed, BUT one thing we are no hearing, is that any multi angle helix in an srx will and does eat your clutch bushngs very fast under anything other than hard packed riding. Here is my point, you can run a multi angle on HARD packed or in a race, but put an srx with a multi angle in powder or deep fluff, kiss your clutch goodbye, it wont last. a sure round safe bet is a straight 41 or 43 for all conditions. I know racers who use them, and they swear that all tricks for helix angles mentioned on TY forums do not take into account the set up being used anywhere else but on hard packed or trail racing, But all i see are multi angle helix suggestions for the srx. I have been told they work on trails and hard packed, but beware in any other snow condition. Anyone had any good reports of eg 50 36 helixs on srx in conditions other than hard packed or racing? (every day sledding)
Thanks and have a great christmas
There are so many great guys on these forums trying to help us with these things. But many do not tell you where the set ups work best. Just look at the Ty clutching set up forum. you will be blown away as to how many vastly different set ups there for an srx 700 with hc weights, there seems to be one major piece of the puzzle missing. the conditions where the suggested set ups can and cannot work well in. eg is a mountain set up going to be the same as a drag or aggressive trail set up? do we give enough info to make a real good suggestion for helix angles for the srx with hc weights?
I agree a 50 36 or other multi angle helix in theory should be perfect to keep that hole shot and maintain top speed, BUT one thing we are no hearing, is that any multi angle helix in an srx will and does eat your clutch bushngs very fast under anything other than hard packed riding. Here is my point, you can run a multi angle on HARD packed or in a race, but put an srx with a multi angle in powder or deep fluff, kiss your clutch goodbye, it wont last. a sure round safe bet is a straight 41 or 43 for all conditions. I know racers who use them, and they swear that all tricks for helix angles mentioned on TY forums do not take into account the set up being used anywhere else but on hard packed or trail racing, But all i see are multi angle helix suggestions for the srx. I have been told they work on trails and hard packed, but beware in any other snow condition. Anyone had any good reports of eg 50 36 helixs on srx in conditions other than hard packed or racing? (every day sledding)
Thanks and have a great christmas
iahacker
Member
Which ones?
Maybe you could elaborate on which Heel Clickers: The 40-10 one piece, 40-10 two speeds, 40-20 two speeds or other?
Maybe you could elaborate on which Heel Clickers: The 40-10 one piece, 40-10 two speeds, 40-20 two speeds or other?
A race or accelerating set up is just that & won,t & shouldn,t work in deep snow.You need backshift in deep & loose snow & a racing set up won,t give you that. You can make a dual angle set up work well in those conditions but it just requires a little less tip weight. Some guys prefer straight angle helix,s & other guys like multiangle. Nothing wrong with eitherof em & they both work.
One thing to keep in mind is you can't have the best of both worlds. eg Drag setup/trail set up. Having multiple sets of clutches helps. If you want to go drag racing you put on your drag set up. And if you want to go trail riding you put on your trail set up that has better backshifting.
Alternatives For Every Day Riding?
so if you use an eg 50 36 on an srx in all conditions ( i know that an srx isnt a deep snow sled) it wont eat yor clutch from poor backshifiting?
using less tip weitght will defeat the HC as you will again be back into the over rev problems.
It seems like HC are designed for racing, but are not a reliable alternative to every day all riding conditions.
My srx is stock, and on the rare ocation i have to drive 40 miles up a lake to my cottage and their is 8 inches of fresh snow, does that means I have to take out my 50/36 and put in a 43 straight, to save my clutch?
i have the 40 10 weights that have the swingable weight, using a screw in the tip with 2 washers, a screw in the heel using 3 washers and a red spring. the middle hole is empty.
Turk I appreiate your imput, I just have a flat head from banging it against the wall trying to get these things to work.
I was very frustrated when i ordered a dalton helix 50/36 and picked it up from my dealer, only to be told that i wasted my money, and need to order a 41 straight.
any does and donts would be appreciated.
I HAVE TRACKED RESULTS WITH MANY DIFFERENT SET UPS FOR THE HC APPLICATIONS, IE SPRING WEIGHT AND WASHER COMBOS IF ANYONE WANTS TO SEE WHAT WORKS AND WHAT DOESNT AND WHY.
I WILL GLADLY POST IF YOU WANT.
MERRY CHRISTMS TO ALL, AND THANKS!
so if you use an eg 50 36 on an srx in all conditions ( i know that an srx isnt a deep snow sled) it wont eat yor clutch from poor backshifiting?
using less tip weitght will defeat the HC as you will again be back into the over rev problems.
It seems like HC are designed for racing, but are not a reliable alternative to every day all riding conditions.
My srx is stock, and on the rare ocation i have to drive 40 miles up a lake to my cottage and their is 8 inches of fresh snow, does that means I have to take out my 50/36 and put in a 43 straight, to save my clutch?
i have the 40 10 weights that have the swingable weight, using a screw in the tip with 2 washers, a screw in the heel using 3 washers and a red spring. the middle hole is empty.
Turk I appreiate your imput, I just have a flat head from banging it against the wall trying to get these things to work.
I was very frustrated when i ordered a dalton helix 50/36 and picked it up from my dealer, only to be told that i wasted my money, and need to order a 41 straight.any does and donts would be appreciated.
I HAVE TRACKED RESULTS WITH MANY DIFFERENT SET UPS FOR THE HC APPLICATIONS, IE SPRING WEIGHT AND WASHER COMBOS IF ANYONE WANTS TO SEE WHAT WORKS AND WHAT DOESNT AND WHY.
I WILL GLADLY POST IF YOU WANT.
MERRY CHRISTMS TO ALL, AND THANKS!
I have a straight 41 if you need one for $40 shipped but your helix will be fine. I can,t understand where u got the idea the hc,s wreck clutch parts? The only time they do is if you blow a belt & they self destruct. Hc,s are fine for trail riding; i have buds with a kazillion miles on em. Sorry; I just don,t agree with your dealer or who ever you got this info from cus it ain,t accurate.
vibeline
New member
Stock parts are better all around pieces
I have used hc's in the past and they do work well.
As far as eating clutch parts, I have not experienced that. I have put thousands of miles on an srx with hc's and only did regular maintenance.
But............... turk is right when he says they will self destruct.
I blew a belt last year the hc's exploded and destroyed my primary clutch.
That would have never happened with stock parts.
I have rode over 50,000 miles in the past 20 years, I have lost many $49.00 dollar belts. I never damaged a clutch from breaking a belt.
The hc incodent cost me about $600 dollars and the worst part of all my sled was parked for 10 days.
Stock parts are better!!!!!!!!!!!
I have used hc's in the past and they do work well.
As far as eating clutch parts, I have not experienced that. I have put thousands of miles on an srx with hc's and only did regular maintenance.
But............... turk is right when he says they will self destruct.
I blew a belt last year the hc's exploded and destroyed my primary clutch.
That would have never happened with stock parts.
I have rode over 50,000 miles in the past 20 years, I have lost many $49.00 dollar belts. I never damaged a clutch from breaking a belt.
The hc incodent cost me about $600 dollars and the worst part of all my sled was parked for 10 days.
Stock parts are better!!!!!!!!!!!
I taotally diagree.I ran a 50-36 and some other big multi splits.That can't ruin your clutch.The people that did that are not properly clutched and getting too much heat in the clutch and probaly have to stiff of a secondary spring.
x2ryder
New member
Vibeline, were your 40-10's the 2 speeds (pivoting arm) or the original 40-10's?
vibeline
New member
x2ryder
New member
I can't tell from that photo if they had the pivoting arm on them or not?
YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
JUST PUT A HEEL CLICKER SET-UP TOGETHER IN MY 2000 SRX. I CANT, HELP YA BECAUSE THIS WILL BE GRASS AND ICE RACED. ALLAN, DON, MIKE, ALL WALKED ME THROUGH STARTING POINTS. SLED WAS OFF A TAD FROM WHAT THEY SUGGESTED RPM WISE BUT HELIX CJANGE BROUGHT IT RIGHT AROUND. I EXPERIENCE NOTHING BUT AWSOME ACCELRATION. CLUTCHES NEVER GOT HOT, NO BELT BURN MARKS, etc. I SWEAR BY YAMAHA 8BU-00 WEIGHTS BUT THESE IT HARDER. AGAIN ITS RACE ONLY FOR ME, I CAN,T SEE WHY THEY WOULD NOT WORK FOR EVERYDAY RIDING. 3:16 (tony)
nystateboySRX
New member
yeah I have a HC system in my sled works great...
vibeline
New member
x2ryder
no pivoting arm....... original 40-10's
no pivoting arm....... original 40-10's
Ziefzt, Where are you getting this misconstrud information??
The problem I see you having here is that your not setting up the sled and clutching for the kind of riding you do 90 percent of the time, you can t have a drag race, off trail mtn riding, and topend speed set up to work in all 3, wont happen, its impossible! To get something in clutching in 1 area you must give it up in another area.
What you do is set your sled up clutching wise to the type of riding you do 90 percent of the time, not to the 10 percent, if you are a trail rider, then you obviously dont want a top speed only set up in your machine, youll hate it and it wont perform to its potential, you just deal with the other 10 percent if you run into those situations win or lose!!
I have put thousands upon thousands of miles on H/c weights, set up hundreds of sleds with them for people, I have yet to ever have someone have clutch bushings eatin out or complain of no performance, your not doing something correctly and you need to do some more studying so that you can find out where your making your mistakes and correct them.
The problem I see you having here is that your not setting up the sled and clutching for the kind of riding you do 90 percent of the time, you can t have a drag race, off trail mtn riding, and topend speed set up to work in all 3, wont happen, its impossible! To get something in clutching in 1 area you must give it up in another area.
What you do is set your sled up clutching wise to the type of riding you do 90 percent of the time, not to the 10 percent, if you are a trail rider, then you obviously dont want a top speed only set up in your machine, youll hate it and it wont perform to its potential, you just deal with the other 10 percent if you run into those situations win or lose!!
I have put thousands upon thousands of miles on H/c weights, set up hundreds of sleds with them for people, I have yet to ever have someone have clutch bushings eatin out or complain of no performance, your not doing something correctly and you need to do some more studying so that you can find out where your making your mistakes and correct them.
Why do the heel clickers destroy the clutch when you blow a belt?
x2ryder
New member
The only thing that I can think of is the clutch spins too fast and breaks the weights.
I am probably waaaaaaaaaaay out here, but can it be something with .. that when the belt goes away, it leaves the clutch open and the long and hard primary spring BANGS the clutch sheaves together soo hard that it.. blows? Even if it doesn't blow immediately, the cracks created by the bang are so great that it only takes a few revolutions to shake/spin the primary apart. Something like that?
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When the belt blows the primary shive slams shut.The heels of the hc,s smack against the moveable shive & the heel shears off as well as usually most of the time the whole weight self destructs. The pieces go flying all over at a kazillion mph & destroy anything they hit.
Turks right on the money as to why they explode!!
One thing to remember with any set up is high gear ratios (lower numericaly)in the chaincase have lower belt speeds then lower ones do, again, its all about setting up your sled for the riding you do 90 percent of the time, not the "other" 10 percent!
The reason your sled comes from the factory with gearing approx 10-15% higher then what the actual capabilities of the sled are is to keep excessive belt speeds down, this reduces belt life from increased friction, which is heat.
Heat,high belt speeds, steep gearing in chaincase and trying to get high topend speeds will result in a blown belt, no matter what weights you use.
One thing to remember with any set up is high gear ratios (lower numericaly)in the chaincase have lower belt speeds then lower ones do, again, its all about setting up your sled for the riding you do 90 percent of the time, not the "other" 10 percent!
The reason your sled comes from the factory with gearing approx 10-15% higher then what the actual capabilities of the sled are is to keep excessive belt speeds down, this reduces belt life from increased friction, which is heat.
Heat,high belt speeds, steep gearing in chaincase and trying to get high topend speeds will result in a blown belt, no matter what weights you use.