Help!!!!

Exciterfan

Exciterfan

Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2005
Messages
423
Age
66
Location
West St. Paul, Manitoba Canada
Merry Christmas everyone. Hope you are all enjoying your family get togethers! Thne eating has begun!!!

Now for the call for help. 2001 SXR600, ran great last year, added carbon tech reeds, bender pipes, jetted per Turks recommendations (47.5 pilots, 142.5 Mains), haven't done any clutchg mods since last year yet (RPMs are close).

Here's my problem. Had her out this AM and I'm finding that I lose ignition and it dies. I can pull the rope and it fires right up?? Ride a little and it dies again. I have noticed the temp light on at one point, but it was running at the time and didn't seem too hot??? Is it possible that my wiring harness is shortin out some where? Is my temp sensor killing the ignition (does it do that)? Could my water pump be slipping and actually causing an over-heat condition? I can hold my hand on the hose quite easily, doesn't seem overly hot. Thermostat stuck?? Coolant level seems okay and I don't see any leaks under the exhaust manifold at all.

Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

Exciterfan

(P.S. I smell turkey!!!)
 
Hey with em triple pipes I hope you went to a larger cooling exchanger because you will overheat. There are no thermostate's on the 600's.Hey man does that can you sold me ever snap.What a wicked sound.Had fanily member take it for a run and that can screams...thanks.Anyways triple pipes increase HP andx engine heat to.You may have a problem my friend.Merry xmas..I smell Turkey to and it is out of the oven already.Chow.
 
I have run Bender pipes for the last 5000 kilometers, no cooling issues ever, even at +5 with stock exchangers. I dont think its a overheating issue. I have however rebuilt my waterpump on Thursday as it was wet around the weep hole.Sounds ignition related.
 
is there any chance you bent the float tabs in the carbs when changing jets, not getting enough fuel so she dies and by the time you start cranking the bowls fill back up? this could also cause a lean mixture wich would explain the heat light.
might not have anything to do with it but you could recheck your float height.
i burned downd my rz 2 times before figuring out this was my problem.
Pat
 
also if you have a tether cord installed, try bypassing it ive seen a few of them go bad. they test fine when engine isnt running but with the vibration of a running engine could make it loose contact.
Pat
 
I would say maybe its shorting out somewhere, possibly your tether could be coming loose or not grounding out good enough(seen that happen alot with old used tethers). Its possible part of the ignition source is bad and simply cuts out after so long.
 
Since it doesn't happen all of the time, I don't think it's Carb related. As an EE it definetly seems CDI related. I guess I'll tie a string to the wiring harness and see if I can pull it out. I'd like to try and do it without removing the pipes if I can as I have them nicely sealed. I may have to remove a few exhaust springs just to make room for my hand in there.

Last year I never once doubted the old Yammie, but I don't want too stray too far from home until I nail down this gremlin. I hope I don't have to dive into the water pump. I was hoping to do the motor next summer from the bottom up. I also believe there is a thermostat mounted on the cylinder head. No? There certainly was on my 87 Exciter.

Does anybody know whether the temp sensor does more than light the dash light? Does it also tell the CDI to shut down?

All advice is welcome. Volunteers willing to drop by and trouble shoot even more welcome!

Thanks

Exciterfan
 
UPDATE!

Took advantage of the nice weather this afternoon and did a little snooping under the hood. Decided that the wiring harness was pretty tight between the motor and the fram so I cut it up near the carbs and pulled it out from under the motor. Wires didn't seem to be damaged, but what a grappy environment for a wiring harness (wet gooey etc.). Decided at that point to resolder the harness together and reroute it up and over the stator protion of the motor next to the carb coolant line. After the soldering job was done I protected the wires with tape and some ThermoTec high temp wire loom protector. BETTER THAN NEW.

Took the machine for a spin, and did run ninto the stalling gremilin again. Decided that since I did remove tha carbs to clean them I might had too much tension on the throttle cable (i.e. TORS). Slacken it off a little and ran around the yard for 15 minutes without an issue until I let off the throttle abruptly and it died. Now it really sounded like a TORS issue so I slackened it a little more and so foar no more trouble.

I did have the temp light on again at one point, but I thiink it was I was ripping up and down a packed down strip and not sending much snow up onto the exchangers. Road around the little bit of untouched snow and the temp light did not seem to come on again. I'll have to watch this for a while I guess.

I'm hoping I'm good to go but will post an update tomorrow.

Happy Holidays everyone!!
 
Update!

Loosening the throttle has solved the stalling problem. Took the sled out for a spin in our new 14" of snow and never had an issue.

Not satisfied with my clutching so I'm going to install Turk's recommended baseline and see if things improve. If I get her dialed in okay I may try to experiment with the TEAM roiller to see if I can get it close to the secondary settings from Turk. We'll see.

I'll report back!!
 
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