srx chaincase question

chilli

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So, I have swapped the track, and everything is back together...but I just have a hard time believing that the gears dont fully seat on the shafts...

I mean, everything is bolted in, and drive shaft moves fine....but when I re-assembled the chaincase, i found it a little funny that the shafts dont go all the way to the end of the gears....

The cluth side mounted perfect, and the speedo bolted on perfect.....is this normal for the drave and jack shafts to only seat 1/2 way through the gears?...i mean, it has to be right, based on everything ligning up and boltying up perfexct...I just want to have re-assurance that I did it right

Ps - anyone have a "CLEAR" exploded view of the chaincase microfishe?
 

nope, the large spacer goes with the small gear, and the small spacer goes with the large gear, with the collar towards the shaft

I mean, everything fits perfect....if the gear wasn't in far enough, it would have moved when I torqued it down....I measured how far the chain stuck out at the top and bottom, and it was the same....the tensioner was aimed perfectly, right in the middle

The chaincase fit perfectly on the upper jackshaft....everything is bolted tight...

Speedo and clutch bolted perfectly.....locking bearing was exactly where the stock one was....

as soon as the skid is in, I can verify everything....buy..if I did't do it myself, there'd be no reason to even suspect anything....I have the clymers manual too, and referenced that....
 
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That sounds perfect working log giveing the srx a facelift last page has a good pik of this you have to lock tight the bottom bolt.Thats the way they are wierd i know.
 
I had the bottom bolt come loose and wear a hole in the cover so i always lock tight it and wait a day before adding oil!I have bad luck maybie lol
 
If that driveshaft isn't flush with the flat washer on the lower gear something is wrong. I bet the collar on the driveshaft that goes behind the chaincase isn't seated all the way on the shaft and not letting the driveshaft be pulled all the way into the chaincase. Take the chaincase off and make sure the collar is pushed all the way back to the hex part of the driveshaft, then re-install chaincase. Better check it or it'll be ugly when it breaks!
 
maybe its different with newer SRX's.....like I said, if the gear wasn't on, it would have moved when I tourqued the bolt.....

Everything fit perfect...and after seeing the picture of "giving SRX a facelift..that is 100% exact same as mine)

Has to be right
 
I had my chaincase off twice b/c I was thinking it was not right. I re-installed it and it was the same. I wouldn't say half the gear, but maybe a 1/3 of the width. If I remember right, when I changed my gear lube last year it was the same. It has been a REALLY REALLY long summer with no snow still!!!
 
Its right the bearing is the fixed point!The cog shaft side has the nice oil retaining spacer that goes thru the seal and flush with the inside of the bearing.So it will not come any farther.The top is the same way after the gears are insalled and tight the speedo and top bearing should be adjusted and locked down.One summer i put it all back together without a track to check for out of round shafts cogs and line the gears up.
 
yup, here is the picture I took during dis-assembly....and it exactly the same

Picture%20006.jpg
 
Clilli

I have my chaincase appart right now. the drive shaft does not come flush with the bottom gear.
Bluewho made a good point.
Make sure you locktite the bottom bolt.
The second year (in 2001) I had my SRX the bolt came loose it put a hole in the chaincase cover and the chain broke.

P.S. when the chain broke it put stress cracks in the chain case. I put some devcon on it just in case. It never leaked so its been like that for 5 years.
 

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thats shitty old gear lube.....lol

I bought shell advance fully synthetic.....and I have decided to go for the new seal (15 canadian at my dealer....)

I will replace the seal, and use locktite now that I will have to open it up again!

Thanks for the heads up!
 
Hi!

It`s just the same on my SRX, I was worried about it so I posted a picture in my thread (giving the SRX a facelift, in the worklog section), no one answered me but I`m 100% it`s suppost to be that way because when I removed the gear I made a notch in it to make sure I put it back on the right way, and I also payed attention to what was left on the axle when I removed the gear.

When I reinstalled it I removed them when I saw that the axle wasn`t sticking all the way out, but everything looked OK under the gear so I just put it back on and torqued it up.

Did a few hard grass runs the other day and it didn`t seem to break :). Hehe.
 
Oh, how much should the bolt be torqued?.

I torqued it to "just enough" by hand.. .
 
The 98 I'm working on is the same way Chili, I installed the gears this last weekend and wondered the same thing, shouldn't that gear fit on farther???? I measured where the drive sprockets and track were sitting and found that if the shaft did come over that last half inch the track would be way closer to the tunnel on that side, so I torqued it up and left it.
 


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