First ride of the year..

1.)what primary spring are you running?
2.)what is the topend rpm at?
3.)Is the rpm dropping when at topend?
4.) whats the secondary spring and degree of tension?

the 51/45 will provide good topend but wont allow you to run alot of tip weight, the 50/43 will be all around better in my opinion, its gonna be plenty fast upshifting and provide better belt clamp thru the secondary, faster backshifting and allow you to run LESS secondary spring tension for improved topend speed.
 
1. Hauck orange, I have gwg and stock also.
2.Topend rpm with the 50/43 today was around 9000-9100
3.The rpms hold nice and steady with the 50/43,51/45,and a 54/44 i tried today on long runs. the 51/45 was around 8,800/8,900 rpm.
4. Green secondary and I ran all helix's at 70, also have red and silver springs

the 51/45 is what i ran against the firecat and he went right by me after 100mph but i had him by a sled length or two the hole way there.We ran on hard pack..traction was great.

I'm running 8dn-20's with 3.1 inner 2.4 outter 15.6 rollers...

I didn't have a sled to run against tonight but I think i liked the acceleration of the 51/45 or 54/44 the best..but i'd like to have some good backshift for corners and on/off accel. and some better top end than the 51./45 provided. I've have my track tention set right before ratcheting and the chain half inch each way, powervals cleaned and adjusted, clutches fully aligned...I love the 8dn-20s they seem to pull real hard but the topend seems to be suffering alittle.

I'd like to get my hands on a 53/43 to try..might end up buying one if its going to work better..
 
eric, matt has my timer, it velcros to your sled, tell him to let you use it. unless you have a sled to run against that is similar your just wasting time. if you use the timer you can see what works for real, not feels like.

those chisles are not very safe for trail riding, you may want to install picks on the outside.
 
ahhh, dont put too much faith in the ol butt dyno, what feels fast is usually slower!! The reason the slower feeling set ups are usually faster is the sled simply squirts forward, covering ground at a faster rate without all the wasted motion of rearing up and wheeling like a bronco at a rodeo.

First thing I dont like very much is the hauck spring, why have a 55kg start spring in there, do you want a high engagement speed for some reason?
The ending of the spring 135kg is pretty stiff as well, a little softer shift on the spring will make your weights act a little heavier effectively loading the motor more. I think I would try the stock y/w/y spring 45/128

As far as the helix goes you need to set up the primary first to run your rpm correctly, then fine tune the shift with the helix, you can move the rpm up or down a 100 rpm or so by the finish angle on the helix, meaning: lets say your running along and the tach says 8800rpm all the way thru, if you wanted to gain another 100 rpm you can do either of the following, youll have to test it to see where it makes the most differance (1.) you can twist the secondary spring up 10 degrees, advantages, better backshift, possible loss of topend mph (2.) you can lower the finish angle a couple degrees, advantages: squeezes the belt more on topend and requires less spring force to hang onto the belt, may over rev requiring more weight in tip of weight.
 
BETHEVIPER said:
eric, matt has my timer, it velcros to your sled, tell him to let you use it. unless you have a sled to run against that is similar your just wasting time. if you use the timer you can see what works for real, not feels like.

those chisles are not very safe for trail riding, you may want to install picks on the outside.
Click to expand...

yeah i'll see if he has the timer betheviper does matt reynolds or farnam have it?, whats your name so I can let him know..im usually up to the shop everyday...the ysaid they would help me set it up...but i'm more interested in setting it up with help from TY members (its my first year ever clutching a sled)..they think its funny that i refer to the internet for help..but its funny when i smoke them on the grass...Rynolds xcr 800 and Farnams F7'!!:Phow come the chisels aren't safe??seems to be alright on our icy condistions right now...I ONLY have 4 inch carbides right now so i def. need to get matt to hook me up with a good deal for some 6inches ior os...his firecat has 9 inches and I didn;t like the feel too much..i like to lean alittle..
 
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mrviper700 said:
ahhh, dont put too much faith in the ol butt dyno, what feels fast is usually slower!! The reason the slower feeling set ups are usually faster is the sled simply squirts forward, covering ground at a faster rate without all the wasted motion of rearing up and wheeling like a bronco at a rodeo.

First thing I dont like very much is the hauck spring, why have a 55kg start spring in there, do you want a high engagement speed for some reason?
The ending of the spring 135kg is pretty stiff as well, a little softer shift on the spring will make your weights act a little heavier effectively loading the motor more. I think I would try the stock y/w/y spring 45/128

As far as the helix goes you need to set up the primary first to run your rpm correctly, then fine tune the shift with the helix, you can move the rpm up or down a 100 rpm or so by the finish angle on the helix, meaning: lets say your running along and the tach says 8800rpm all the way thru, if you wanted to gain another 100 rpm you can do either of the following, youll have to test it to see where it makes the most differance (1.) you can twist the secondary spring up 10 degrees, advantages, better backshift, possible loss of topend mph (2.) you can lower the finish angle a couple degrees, advantages: squeezes the belt more on topend and requires less spring force to hang onto the belt, may over rev requiring more weight in tip of weight.
Click to expand...

yeah I remember you telling me about that for the grass set up..i only had my buddies xc 600 and it wasn't much competition..i left him sitting there either way..my best bet would be to get the firecat back out there..probably this weekend..he changes stuff more than me though so it's tuff...and i have the stock ywy i believe..the marks are all off it..may need a new one the sled has 5,800 miles..I like the idea of the ywy making the weights seem heavier..grabbing alittle more out of the motor..i'll stick that in tomorrow and try the 50/43/51/45 and the 54/44...not many people use the 54/44 I see..and alot use the 53/43...out of my choices the 54/44 is the closest only off 1 number start and finish angle..but i like the idea of the 43 finish angle..hopefulyl squeezing alittle more top end..but like you said i'll stick that ywy in tomorrow and bring those helix's..if they over-rev on topend i'll stick some more weight in the tip...

Since the hauck orange right now is only engaging at 4300..and lets say the ywy is only 3900 wouldn't it be better to stick some shims in there I have 3(100rpm) shims ..rather than taking weight out of the inner hole for what i'm trying to accomplish?
 
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lower engagement speed is faster in snow, you simply can hook up better.

No shims, you not only change the engagement but you also ADD to the shift, you are reducing the installed height of the spring, thus making it more powerfull, kinda like shooting yourself in the foot.
 
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BTW- I forgot to say you might want to play with your track tension as well, set super loose will balloon out at high speeds and scrub off speed, even if the picks dont touch the tunnel the track will rub on the tunnel strips and slow you down, they like to rub just on top right in front of the drivers(under gastank area). You can look up in there with a mirror on a stick and minimag flashlight, if its black on wear strips the tracks set too loose, tighten it up slowly and youll see your top speed increase.

You dont really have to have the sled your trying to beat there to test against, simply take some traffic cones or something to mark off a given distance, use your speedo to see if your making improvements when you go past your mark each time.
 
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