OK, so POWERVALVES - easy or not?

I don't think that's a problem,yamaha uses this methode so it must be
close enought, if not try a 3mm allen.

the idea is NOT to put too much tention on the cable(valve) end
 
Just weird because I can still pull on the cable itself and raise the valve just the servo keeps moving. I don't know, I am going to tear it all apart again and see if I can find something. Powervalves are too $$ for me to screw up lol. Turns out I need a new cable as well... one started to fray a little.... hmmmm. Something has to be going on.
 
Well change the cable they do wear out and try a 3mm then, take your
time and do one vavle at a time. dunno, $.02 :)
 
change_up said:
I must have a problem with the cables somewhere... because I can still reach in the exhaust port and push the valve up another 1/8 inch or so until it bottoms out... and it is not quite flush with the exhaust port (very fine line to go, but it's not quite there... maybe 1/32" or so) This happens on all three valves but the worst is on the Mag side valve. Any ideas?
Click to expand...
It seems to me that something is not right with these valves. With the servo at the full open position, the valves should all be flush with the top of the exhaust port. The valves should still have a little travel left at this point, do NOT bottom them out as this is a major cause of cable pull-thru. Then when you take the valve housings loose (4 screws not 2 screws) there should be the 2.5mm or so gap left.

Are your cables wound right on the servo spool?
 
Yes everything is routed correctly... it is VERY hard to screw that up... what I meant Ding was that when the servo is in full open, and I adjust the valves to be flush with the exhaust port (or try) the servo backs off even though I can still push the valve up flush with the port with my hand and can even bottom it out with my hand quite easily... I could never get it this way with the cable. When I go to tighten the cable, even if the valve is about 2mm down from the port, the more i tighten the cable, the more it pulls the servo back, BUT i can still move the valve to be flush with the port with my finger very easily. I'm not sure how else I can describe it. I'm going to tear into it anyway and see what's up.
 
i think your puling on the cables to much,, try using a wider gap, i din't have any problems using 2.5mm on mine..
 
Well I have no idea what I did. I don't think I changed a thing, but I was no longer having the same problem at all last night. The adjusting went very smoothly and the servo stayed at full open the whole time. So it kind of sucks that there is no closure on what the problem was but i'm happy that it no longer exists! I adjusted the valves flush with the port this time, but am going out to take some measurements at the housings to use these as a reference when I go to adjust them again... should save a considerable amount of time.

Thanks to everybody that helped!
 
I made the wires with the 5 amp fuse to test my servo motor when i tried it the 5 amp fuse pops right away and the servo motor dont move at all, even below 900 rpm the servo dont move, is my servo motor broken or do i have electrical problems. 5 amp fuse pops every time i hook it up does this mean servo motor shot or electrical please help.

PS: dont want to buy servo motor and it still dont work or i fry the new one because of electrical problem or short.
 
tutic said:
I made the wires with the 5 amp fuse to test my servo motor when i tried it the 5 amp fuse pops right away and the servo motor dont move at all, even below 900 rpm the servo dont move, is my servo motor broken or do i have electrical problems. 5 amp fuse pops every time i hook it up does this mean servo motor shot or electrical please help.

PS: dont want to buy servo motor and it still dont work or i fry the new one because of electrical problem or short.
Click to expand...

Be careful with making your own jumper...some have burnt out there servo & even there cdi...does it start now, if so...just remove the cover & get someone else to start it up & watch the servo cycle open to close on start up, after initial start up they only start to open up at/about 69-7000 rpm or so...& is it dosen't work then I would find a fellow yamer & swamp out the servo
 
powervalves are easy, first timei did it i was like wtf... but easy... first valve i pulled out it was pulled through i was like great!!! then the other two were fine.
 
Not sure what I'm missing here with all of the adjustments everybody is talking about. I just take the 4 screws out, pull out the valve, clean it and put it back in. Runs like a champ.

Am I doing something wrong?
 
igolf said:
Not sure what I'm missing here with all of the adjustments everybody is talking about. I just take the 4 screws out, pull out the valve, clean it and put it back in. Runs like a champ.

Am I doing something wrong?
Click to expand...
yes and no,when cleaning your valves it's always a good idea to atleast check for proper adjustment,once adjusted should be fine for somtime.
 
tutic said:
I made the wires with the 5 amp fuse to test my servo motor when i tried it the 5 amp fuse pops right away and the servo motor dont move at all, even below 900 rpm the servo dont move, is my servo motor broken or do i have electrical problems. 5 amp fuse pops every time i hook it up does this mean servo motor shot or electrical please help.
Click to expand...
if it's not setting the servo below 900 you have problems,are you getting
any warning lights????
 
first valved i pulled out it was pulled through, cable end looks fine, how do i tell if i have a stretched cable? will i have slack up by the servo when the p/vs are all adjusted???? other two were fine. just a little dirty, i sprayed carb cleaner on them, and wiped em off then sprayed them again and took the carbon build up off with a razor... then sprayed it again to wipe off all the little particles and stuff.... they arent perfectly shiny but no build up.... i put some interceptor oil on my finger and rubbed the oil on the valves and put them in... is that alright to do that?
 
Yamidude59 said:
first valved i pulled out it was pulled through, cable end looks fine, how do i tell if i have a stretched cable? will i have slack up by the servo when the p/vs are all adjusted???? other two were fine. just a little dirty, i sprayed carb cleaner on them, and wiped em off then sprayed them again and took the carbon build up off with a razor... then sprayed it again to wipe off all the little particles and stuff.... they arent perfectly shiny but no build up.... i put some interceptor oil on my finger and rubbed the oil on the valves and put them in... is that alright to do that?
Click to expand...
when PV's are adjusted properly there will be no slack up @ the adjuster,
cables will be tight

yes that's fine to rub oil on them,not needed but...
 
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