flipping front shock mounts

Equalizer

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Feb 7, 2006
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Manitoba
I was wondering if anyone did the " front shock mount swap" to raise the front an inch or so but keep the rear ride height stock? I'm liking the idea of having the front sit a little higher but want to keep the rear ride height stock [with the exception of a 1.25 track ] but wasn't sure if it would effect the handling or cause traction issues. Anyone have any thoughts?
 

it will work just fine, you will need to adjust your alignment and your front limiter straps will need to come out a wisker to compensate. your rear gaps will be effected little if any.
 
BETHEVIPER said:
it will work just fine, you will need to adjust your alignment and your front limiter straps will need to come out a wisker to compensate. your rear gaps will be effected little if any.

Excellent! Thanks BETHEVIPER, very much appreciated!!
 
chadman said:
Is there any real advantage to this?
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This mod makes the sled feel/look better (more balanced) after doing the rear long travel conversion to your srx. Plus you will gain a little bit of clearance up front.
 
chadman said:
Is there any real advantage to this?
There are a few reasons why I was thinking of doing this:

1) in deeper snow I seem to get about as much snow going over the front as under it, so I'm thinking raising the front may help

2) b/c I have the front shock set with a fair bit of preload for more traction, I notice that the back of the track isn't touching the ground. If I lift the front up an inch most of the track is sitting flat so I'm hoping it may even improve traction a bit.

3) as it sits, the rear is alot higher than the front, even with the front raised an inch or so it's still alot lower in the front than the back, so I'm thinking that it will even out the weight distribution.
 
I think that the back of the track should be of the ground a little bit. That is how you get your traction. When you sit down you squish the suspension and when you hit the gas the sled leans back giving you traction. Raising the front to get rid off the snow going over the top is a good idea.
 
gotmudd said:
How do you do the flip? Any instructions?
I haven't had chance to do it yet but from the research I've done and advice from others on here you support the front of the snowmobile, remove the front upper shock mounts and take the left mount, turn it upside down and put it on the right side, then do the same with the right mount. In order to do this you must grind a bit of the metal away and place washers under the mount so the shock won't rub and then check and align the skis.
 
thats how you do it. i never got around to doing an article on it. raises the front .9in for the price of two washers
 
chadman said:
Can you benefit from this mod if you don't have the long travel rear?
BETHEVIPER say's it will work fine without the long travel so I figure I'll try it, if I don't like it I'll change it back. I'll keep you posted and when I get chance to do it [next weekend] I'll let you know if I like it.
 
yes, you flip the existing brackets, left for right and upside down, then place a washer under the lower bolt hole to space it away from the bellypan and try to mount the shock, you will see where you need to grind a small notch in the bracket, mark it with a marker, grind it and reinstall.

this is how my grand pappy did it when i was just a lass.

this raises the sled .9 inches, if that is not enough for you or you want more travel, click on the links below
 
I got my shock brackets off and will switch to opposite sides and you say upside down.But I see that the angle will change where the shock will mount.Also the bracket has been notched out below the top hole because of an extrusion from the frame.Now if you flip the bracket,the notch will be on the bottom and the bracket will ride on top of this extrusion,thus not sitting flush on top of the mounting hole on top.
 

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I could put washers under the upper holes to keep it away from the extrusion I quess.But isn't the angle of the plate still a little off,and the shock will end up shooting over more by the time it reaches the trailing arm mount.
 
Thats why you flip side to side to keep the angle proper/ than grind the bracket were the top of the shock is rubbing ajainst it.Take your time and take off enough that the shock will swing freely and not rub.It might seem like a MC GIVER job but it does work.
 


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