jwiedmayer said:
Thanks Buddy.
Just for that I'm gonna come down and take care of that panther for ya.
jwiedmayer
New member
Maybe you can snipe him while he's nibblin on Chicken Broil scraps. I don't think he made it through the winter of that year. My ole man's buddy was a cop that went out to hunt it and he swears he seen it.
jwiedmayer
New member
successful charging circuit.
Ok experiment #1 a success today. The lighting circuit has successfully been converted over to the charging circuit with out getting into the stator. (Aftermarket regulator/rectifier).
This means that everything that is going to be hooked up to dc must have an isolated ground (direct to battery).
This should not be much of a problem for the hood harness except for the tach. I believe the tach uses the frequency of the ac voltage as the rpm signal. That means I'm going to have to run a ac line to the tach with its own ac ground. The problem is the only a/c source left is the old charging circuit. Does anyone know if the voltage regulator will regulate the voltage on the stock lighting system w/o the the charge circuit hooked up? If it will then I can use the stock regulator and swap the pins around the charge circuit will become the old lighting circuit and only power the tach. Also I need to determine if the stock regulator needs a load to regulate. I swaped the pins and tried it with out a load. It puts out ~11-15volts depending on rpms. But what made me nervous is I got the same output with out the reg hooked up.
Then I have to hunt down any chassis grounds hooked to the 12vdc circuit. If any of them are hooked to the chassis instead of the battery no charging will take place. This is where the floating the ground on the stator would be nice. Then I would not have to chase grounds.
J
Ok experiment #1 a success today. The lighting circuit has successfully been converted over to the charging circuit with out getting into the stator. (Aftermarket regulator/rectifier).
This means that everything that is going to be hooked up to dc must have an isolated ground (direct to battery).
This should not be much of a problem for the hood harness except for the tach. I believe the tach uses the frequency of the ac voltage as the rpm signal. That means I'm going to have to run a ac line to the tach with its own ac ground. The problem is the only a/c source left is the old charging circuit. Does anyone know if the voltage regulator will regulate the voltage on the stock lighting system w/o the the charge circuit hooked up? If it will then I can use the stock regulator and swap the pins around the charge circuit will become the old lighting circuit and only power the tach. Also I need to determine if the stock regulator needs a load to regulate. I swaped the pins and tried it with out a load. It puts out ~11-15volts depending on rpms. But what made me nervous is I got the same output with out the reg hooked up.
Then I have to hunt down any chassis grounds hooked to the 12vdc circuit. If any of them are hooked to the chassis instead of the battery no charging will take place. This is where the floating the ground on the stator would be nice. Then I would not have to chase grounds.
J
jwiedmayer
New member
Houston we have ignition and stable burn..
Ok folks we have iginition. I scrapped the dc conversion idea. 800 kept asking about why you could not run it with out a battery so it got me to thinking. So look at the pictures and I'll tell you what I did.
First I got out a little full bridge rectifier (the voltage is already regulated). Then I tested it on the sled sure enough 12v directional current on the meter. Flip to ac and still get a reading.. Not good. Think a little longer ah I bet it needs something to smooth out the wave (fill in the gulleys)... Um oh ya Yamaha uses one of them things too. The smoothing capacitor. Hook that in and yep 12v dc.. Try to ignite the bulb no go but it drains the cap. So then I added a battery. Started the bulb and the sled. Warmed the bulb bumped the idle a bit and then the big test unhooked the battery. Would not you know it the bulb stayed lit. The SOB worked... Now onto the problem either that capacitor is not big enough to get the JOB done or I will need to use a battery to get it lit. Either way I have both figured out. The stock capacitor is only 3.7-5.4 micro Farads. Trailtech sells a 56k micro Farad capacitor for such instances. (http://www.trailtech.net/dc_conversion.htm) Now I did not study ee much but I do now that the cap can store a helluva lot of juice. Anybody think of why I should not try this?
Ok folks we have iginition. I scrapped the dc conversion idea. 800 kept asking about why you could not run it with out a battery so it got me to thinking. So look at the pictures and I'll tell you what I did.
First I got out a little full bridge rectifier (the voltage is already regulated). Then I tested it on the sled sure enough 12v directional current on the meter. Flip to ac and still get a reading.. Not good. Think a little longer ah I bet it needs something to smooth out the wave (fill in the gulleys)... Um oh ya Yamaha uses one of them things too. The smoothing capacitor. Hook that in and yep 12v dc.. Try to ignite the bulb no go but it drains the cap. So then I added a battery. Started the bulb and the sled. Warmed the bulb bumped the idle a bit and then the big test unhooked the battery. Would not you know it the bulb stayed lit. The SOB worked... Now onto the problem either that capacitor is not big enough to get the JOB done or I will need to use a battery to get it lit. Either way I have both figured out. The stock capacitor is only 3.7-5.4 micro Farads. Trailtech sells a 56k micro Farad capacitor for such instances. (http://www.trailtech.net/dc_conversion.htm) Now I did not study ee much but I do now that the cap can store a helluva lot of juice. Anybody think of why I should not try this?
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jwiedmayer , with this set-up are you switching your single light to a 2001 dual and using HID bulbs? or are you running extra lamps?
M-Max
New member
You apparently have either to much time on your hands
or not enough snow.
Good Luck.
or not enough snow.
Good Luck.
jwiedmayer
New member
Replacing the single bulb with an H4 Hi/lo HID bulb. This is not the exact one but similar http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/sports-imports/brightstarhid.jpg. It moves the arc depending on hi/lo selection.
It will be enough light for me. I tried a lo beam only H4 HID a few years back and it was really brite except w/o the high beam it sucked. It provided all kind of light just not high enough. I never figured out the charging back then so it was only battery powered. It lasted about an hour before I gave up.
It will be enough light for me. I tried a lo beam only H4 HID a few years back and it was really brite except w/o the high beam it sucked. It provided all kind of light just not high enough. I never figured out the charging back then so it was only battery powered. It lasted about an hour before I gave up.
Isn't it kind of hard to adjust the beam from the current mounting position?
(sorry couldn't resist)
(sorry couldn't resist)
jwiedmayer
New member
Why do you need to adjust it? The HID bilb spark/plasma whatever it is in the same spot as the h4 filament.
brada
New member
jwiedmayer said:
I think he was referring that in your above pictures the bulb is mounted to the garage floor next to the sled....
Good get brada.
Don't worry about jwiedmayer, he's an engineer, he'll get it in about 2 hours.
Don't worry about jwiedmayer, he's an engineer, he'll get it in about 2 hours.
jwiedmayer
New member
Duh, I'm a bright spark.
jwiedmayer
New member
Got the capacitor
I was only paying attention to the electrical specs. Not the physical dimensions. This thing weighs as much as the little battery I have.. I think it might be over kill. If it can light and hold the ballast then I don't need the battery. Otherwise its way to more cap then I need!
I was only paying attention to the electrical specs. Not the physical dimensions. This thing weighs as much as the little battery I have.. I think it might be over kill. If it can light and hold the ballast then I don't need the battery. Otherwise its way to more cap then I need!
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jwiedmayer
New member
Capacitor was a scam
This POS would not even stabilize the ballast. At least the dinky little yamaha one would.
This POS would not even stabilize the ballast. At least the dinky little yamaha one would.
On the bright side now you can put a powerfull woofer in the sleds trunk.
jwiedmayer
New member
I'm going to turn it into a stun gun and toss it at ditch pickles.
jwiedmayer
New member
Finished the install
Here is a couple of shot with every installed. Including a new option the shop lamp.. What an idot. I have the shop lamp twisted in the harness.
I'm going on a trip next weekend hopefully I have no charging issues. I'll take some pictures of it running when I get the hole in my pipe fixed.
Maybe I'll really pimp it out and install this next. http://www.sportsmansguide.com/cb/cb.asp?a=320648
J
Here is a couple of shot with every installed. Including a new option the shop lamp.. What an idot. I have the shop lamp twisted in the harness.
I'm going on a trip next weekend hopefully I have no charging issues. I'll take some pictures of it running when I get the hole in my pipe fixed.
Maybe I'll really pimp it out and install this next. http://www.sportsmansguide.com/cb/cb.asp?a=320648
J
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jwiedmayer
New member
I fired it up tonight after installing all the wires and the ballast took a dump!!! Another set back.... Damn it, I was planning on trying it this weekend. The only thing that is different is that I hooked up the hi/lo switch this time.. I'm bummed.
woofer700
New member
keep it up you will get it, even though I have no idea what half the things are you are talking about, I find this very intresting, I really like the shop light, maybe the larger wire could be used to carry more start up current.
regert
New member
Just wondering if there was a second in line for the set up and if you got it done and working with no problem?
Thanks Regert
Thanks Regert