Mac
Member
I installed two extra shafts in the rear skid this week. I'm thinking of installing a couple more. How much speed do the extra wheels provide to the grass and ice drag racers? When touring in quebec on hard packed type trails I can smell others in our group new Apex and RX-1 skids melting down. I also installed six PPD oversize wheels. I'm hoping to free up some power. What do you guys think?
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Are your rear wheels 7 inch or 7.5"???, the 7.5 along with the 5.38" 6 small wheels and a small wheel kit on the curve will make a big differance, it will really free up some friction. The 7.5" rear will go right on to replace the 7 stockers, only thing is you usually have to grind about a 1/8th" off the spacers on axle because the old bearings are a little bit wider then the 2000 up yamaha ones.
Mac
Member
These are 8" with an axel offset kit installed. The 6 standard wheels are 5.630 a full 1/2 inch larger than original Yamaha. I ran them the last two seasons. My skid runs much cooler than all my riding buddies. Each year I try to convince them that oversize wheels will improve their hyfax problems. They don't listen.
excellant. do you have wheels on curve before the smaller 4 wheels?? if not thats the only other place where you can gain, you should be good and free rolling after this. Its ok when the other guys dont listen, it makes it easier to beat them....LOL!!
One thing to check is when you get all done place the skid on a nice flat level surface and make sure the skid is on plane, meaning the gap from the bottom of the rails to surface is the same front front to back so it keeps everything on same plane and same pressure on track.
One thing to check is when you get all done place the skid on a nice flat level surface and make sure the skid is on plane, meaning the gap from the bottom of the rails to surface is the same front front to back so it keeps everything on same plane and same pressure on track.
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Mac
Member
Name that block?
I used to run the front wheels but kept breaking them.
First set was bender and broke them. Then tried another set and lost one at the same time when I cracked an aluminum slide rail. Last couple seasons I gave up. Can anyone tell me what company produced this wheel block in the pic. Maybe I can call and order one block. I also know I can squeeze another shaft with two wheels before the front shock between the rails. I put in a new track with extroverts last week. Should run free now.
I used to run the front wheels but kept breaking them.
First set was bender and broke them. Then tried another set and lost one at the same time when I cracked an aluminum slide rail. Last couple seasons I gave up. Can anyone tell me what company produced this wheel block in the pic. Maybe I can call and order one block. I also know I can squeeze another shaft with two wheels before the front shock between the rails. I put in a new track with extroverts last week. Should run free now.
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do not do this mod to your sled if you are trail riding it.
there are a couple things wrong here.
1 the w arm is in upside down and could destroy the shock, lower mount, rails and track.
2 adding the wheels in the middle will only work for grass racing. the arms that run up the side of the shock as well as the mount for these arms will hit the tops of the wheels before the arm bottoms on the mount. when the arm bottoms there is 1in of clearance between the mount and the track.
i have a similar setup on a skid for grass drags and even at the drags it will hit sometimes if the track is rough and chew up a wheel.
i sold parts to a guy that used one set of wheels like this in the middle and he destroyed both arms and the wheels.
if you run a small wheel up front, a shim kit from pioneer or larger diameter wheels and stop looking at your slides they will last for ever.
hope i have saved you some down time and money as well as anyone else who has thought about this.
there are a couple things wrong here.
1 the w arm is in upside down and could destroy the shock, lower mount, rails and track.
2 adding the wheels in the middle will only work for grass racing. the arms that run up the side of the shock as well as the mount for these arms will hit the tops of the wheels before the arm bottoms on the mount. when the arm bottoms there is 1in of clearance between the mount and the track.
i have a similar setup on a skid for grass drags and even at the drags it will hit sometimes if the track is rough and chew up a wheel.
i sold parts to a guy that used one set of wheels like this in the middle and he destroyed both arms and the wheels.
if you run a small wheel up front, a shim kit from pioneer or larger diameter wheels and stop looking at your slides they will last for ever.
hope i have saved you some down time and money as well as anyone else who has thought about this.
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Fro
New member
BETHEVIPER said:
Now I'm totally lost. Do you mean the shock is upside down? I checked mine & it looks like his...which is how it is in the manual. If you look on Tech pages in the Sweden picture it shows it the other way.
the shock is really not the issue, it can be installed either way. the W arm in the picture above is installed upside down
Fro
New member
BETHEVIPER said:
I see it now.