triple said:I went to pull it again and the pull cord wouldn't come out. I took the plugs out and moved the primary, until it got tight.... then with the plugs out I was able to pull it over. I put the plugs back in and it fired up first pull, and revved fine, but still bogging?? I drove it over to a snow bank and loaded it in the truck. Going down to my local dealer today to check some things.
Oh, the plugs looked good, not lean at all.
Any ideas??????????
Here's what I think, (even though you said the shop said bad crank)
at the point you said the rope would not pull is where one of the
pistons was at a minor seize and should show this now that it will
be apart.
Then in the time it took you to replace the plugs, the piston cooled
enough to release due to getting smaller as it cooled. It only takes
2 -3 thou to do this. Maybe even less.
I would be very surprised if no damage is noticed on any piston of
any kind. There's a fine line where oil is mixed in just right and if
damaged can be no different than running straight gas.
There was a moment this occurred to a friends machine. We added
in oil to the fuel and it was able to get back to the cabin. Critical on
the very first sign of seizure and not forced any further. A no pull
(on the rope) is the sign, or a slowing rapidly of the engine.
Good luck triple
I'd like to see these shots as it comes apart.
I'm wondering if it's cheaper to throw in a running unit before tooo
much is spent on this one.
If I had hard numbers to work with, I'd search to see what's out there.
(The crank gets out of phase.) This I never heard before, and if true
must not be a forged crank. Post a link on this fact.
triple
New member
I don't know what's going to happen. Never heard of a crank going bad in under a mile of riding. I don't believe the seller had any idea, so in no way am I putting any blame on him. He is checking with the shop that did the work right before it was sold though.
Would Yamaha fix the crank even though it's a 99??????? ( if it never recieved the recall)
Would Yamaha fix the crank even though it's a 99??????? ( if it never recieved the recall)
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triple said:Never heard of a crank going bad in under a mile of riding.
I forgot actually that this did happen to me.
Although a bit more severe.
It was years ago.
All related to how it was stored, and sure enough on a quick
tour like yours, it threw a rod at wide open throttle.
At one moment perfect, and in .02 seconds, engine is dead stop
as I coasted to a stop in the middle of the night.
Here's why environment is important.
While the temps and moisture constantly change.
The crank is now exposed to the same conditions.
Sure enough, corrosion set in on the journal and
couldn't take a joke with the bearing.
Everything suffers when machines are sitting long term, and
not set up to perform a run up on a scheduled basis.
chrome_dome99
New member
Was it only the triples in 98 that had bad cranks. I ask because I put a rod through the block on my 98 SX600, don't have the sled anymore but am just curious.
chrome_dome99
New member
By the way, could there be a worse sound than that rod goes through the block at wide open throttle going across a lake. I also was less than a mile from my starting point. Even worse was being towed off the lake by my wife's 15 year old cousin on his dad's 2-up Polaris!!!!!
mrviper700
VIP Lifetime Member
Some early 99's had some problems as well, but in most of the 99's yamaha addressed the problem by using a new improved tighter tolerances on the press fits, and a locking agent added to the joints. there is a way to I.d the crank to know which one you have without tearing it apart, on the PTO end stub, the 98 and early 99 will have no extra countersink on the bolt threads, the updated 99 cranks have a large chamfer on the threads, your dealer can see this information in the 1999 tech update manual on page 1-38.
From just reading your story, it also sounds to me like a light seizure occured and not a crankshaft problem, the reason the pull cord wouldnt come out is exactly how someone here described it, a crank run out has nothing to do with the pull cord not coming out. When the cranks go out they vibrate, wont pull rpm and also if you place a dial indicator on crankshft stub(pto) it will show you excessive run out over .006" is too much. If it were me, I would want to inspect the engine when torn down, if you see lines and melted aluminum marks on any piston, its your problem, not the crank, easy to check your crank with the information above.
From just reading your story, it also sounds to me like a light seizure occured and not a crankshaft problem, the reason the pull cord wouldnt come out is exactly how someone here described it, a crank run out has nothing to do with the pull cord not coming out. When the cranks go out they vibrate, wont pull rpm and also if you place a dial indicator on crankshft stub(pto) it will show you excessive run out over .006" is too much. If it were me, I would want to inspect the engine when torn down, if you see lines and melted aluminum marks on any piston, its your problem, not the crank, easy to check your crank with the information above.
srxhair
New member
it is easy to check to see if crank is out with a dial indicator,dealer will have this,my 98 srx mtn had crank go last spring,it was trued and welded ,and is running strong now,some 99s also need cranks welded,00 and up are welded from factory,i was lucky no other parts damaged,vibration in handle bar was my indication of problem. good luck
srxhair
New member
in canada the cranks were not recalled only repaired under an extended waranty,but that program ended and i had to pay for my crank repair. maybe in u.s. it was a recall?