phatmatt
New member
First off let me say hi to my fellow Yammie fans out there. I've been riding Yamaha sleds for years and couldn't be happier about it.....Now for my question.
I have an 03 Viper which I've just purchased a 144 inch track for. To get this track on I will have to lengthen my rails and I have 2 choices:
1) Buy a full rail set (expensive option), and
2) Buy a rail extension kit (cheaper option)
I really want to buy the extensions to save myself some money but someone told me that the extensions can be pretty weak and tend to snap if ridden too hard. Has anyone else heard this or is this dealer speak to try and get me to pay more money?
Any help would be appreciated.
I have an 03 Viper which I've just purchased a 144 inch track for. To get this track on I will have to lengthen my rails and I have 2 choices:
1) Buy a full rail set (expensive option), and
2) Buy a rail extension kit (cheaper option)
I really want to buy the extensions to save myself some money but someone told me that the extensions can be pretty weak and tend to snap if ridden too hard. Has anyone else heard this or is this dealer speak to try and get me to pay more money?
Any help would be appreciated.
gild
New member
You are extending the rail 11 1/2 inches, less if you move the skid back. The problem I have had is the longer extensions causes the rear to bottom easier and needed shock revalving. As far as rail strength I think they are pretty durable, just look how far polaris and cat rails extend past the rear mount point and how flimsy they are. Personally I woud kick the skid back some and add shorter extensions which will also aid in lessening your approach angle which helps deep snow capability.
Um...what paddle is it, because if you dont already have a mountain, you probably need smaller drives as well??
phatmatt
New member
Is that expensive to move the skid back?
The track I have has 2 inch paddles. Do I need smaller drives then?
The track I have has 2 inch paddles. Do I need smaller drives then?
yes, you will need to go to 8 tooth drivers for a 2" lug or trim the lugs down to 1.75", the biggest track you can fit with the stock 9 tooth drivers is a 1.75" tall lug.
gild
New member
no
No, cheap to move skid back, just a few more unsightly holes. I'm back 5" further than a stock MMax
No, cheap to move skid back, just a few more unsightly holes. I'm back 5" further than a stock MMax
go with rail extensions
I have friends that are 3/4 crazy when they ride and they are on 1998 mmax's with 159's on them with extension and they haven't had a problem the smaller drivers is likely your best option it does change torque a bit because of the smaller diameter. Merc. service steering to rails if they are that is strange because all their ride are stretched with extenions
I have friends that are 3/4 crazy when they ride and they are on 1998 mmax's with 159's on them with extension and they haven't had a problem the smaller drivers is likely your best option it does change torque a bit because of the smaller diameter. Merc. service steering to rails if they are that is strange because all their ride are stretched with extenions
Last edited:
shortstop20
New member
- Joined
- Mar 6, 2005
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- 38
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- Stickney, South Dakota
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Yammerhead
VIP Member
I did something similar to my 97 700SX last year. I went with a 2 x 136" track. There are some pics of it Here
Yes, you have to go to 8 tooth drivers and likely have to change your gearing a bit if you are going to be turning a 144 x 2". I am still playing around with my gearing. The suspension geometry does change as well. I am not a big guy and always had a tough time getting the skid soft enough to run through it's travel. After extending with the stock suspension location and rail extensions the skid is now really soft. Too soft actually and it bottoms a fair bit. I am playing with those settings, might have to look at re-valving. The other sucky thing is with the 2" track, you have to always be looking for soft snow to cool your sliders. If you are on hardpack the sliders will melt quickly. Ice scratchers help with that. The setback and shorter extensions are probably the best way to go, but there seems to be differing opinions on how to do it properly. Too much setback and you run the risk of spearing your track. Put the mounting holes in the wrong place and the suspension will bind. I kept the stock location to keep it somewhat idiot proof.
I would never go back to the original 121" setup. The ride is way better than it was before. The traction is awesome, you can carve around in the deep snow like nothing where all the 121's would have to keep it pinned to keep from getting stuck. If you ride trails lots, the 2" track will be too much. I would cut it down to 1.25"
Hope this helps you out!
Yes, you have to go to 8 tooth drivers and likely have to change your gearing a bit if you are going to be turning a 144 x 2". I am still playing around with my gearing. The suspension geometry does change as well. I am not a big guy and always had a tough time getting the skid soft enough to run through it's travel. After extending with the stock suspension location and rail extensions the skid is now really soft. Too soft actually and it bottoms a fair bit. I am playing with those settings, might have to look at re-valving. The other sucky thing is with the 2" track, you have to always be looking for soft snow to cool your sliders. If you are on hardpack the sliders will melt quickly. Ice scratchers help with that. The setback and shorter extensions are probably the best way to go, but there seems to be differing opinions on how to do it properly. Too much setback and you run the risk of spearing your track. Put the mounting holes in the wrong place and the suspension will bind. I kept the stock location to keep it somewhat idiot proof.
I would never go back to the original 121" setup. The ride is way better than it was before. The traction is awesome, you can carve around in the deep snow like nothing where all the 121's would have to keep it pinned to keep from getting stuck. If you ride trails lots, the 2" track will be too much. I would cut it down to 1.25"
Hope this helps you out!
gild
New member
Shortstop bottomed out badly as the rails bent at the rubber bump stops. By the looks of the damage it had to be big air time and a tail landing. Definitely a 10 out of 10 on my scoreboard. Spearing happens when the tip of the rail goes through the track window. The OEM 121 rails are tipped up a lot and should be fine if you keep your track tension at specs, retain the front to rear coupling and don't go ridiculous on the kickback. Revalving helps also.
Another thing to consider is the front end ride height in relation to how the track sits on the ground. You may notice with a stock trail sled that using OEM mounting points the rear of the track may be off the ground more which will collapse the centre shock more and affect ride quality.
Another thing to consider is the front end ride height in relation to how the track sits on the ground. You may notice with a stock trail sled that using OEM mounting points the rear of the track may be off the ground more which will collapse the centre shock more and affect ride quality.
phatmatt
New member
I don't ride trails all that often but I'm not always in the deep stuff either. What are ice scratchers & how much would they cost?