Hmmm, how will this setup treat me?

YAMAHIZAL700

YAMAHIZAL700

New member
Joined
Feb 12, 2005
Messages
863
Age
44
Location
durham, ME
8dn-20's 4.5 each hole, g-w-g primary spring, grey(silver) secondary wrapped at 60 degrees. Using a straight 49degree cam. Since I have a 51/47 and a 51/43 which would work better untill I get my straight 49.
 

I dont know the owner of the local yamaha shop called titus at hauck power sports and asked for the setup for the 02 srx (since im using the 8dn 20's) And he told him they use the hauck orange primary and the hauck green secondary. They gave me these springs because they are comprable to the hauck ones. He also said they run 51/47's in all their srx. Seems like clutching should be more simple!
 
modsrx said:
yes but primary spring seem stiff a bit take the w-w-w
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Luckily by the end of me trying to get this all set ill have every spring yamaha ever made. I have the www on there right now but he said it wasnt stiff enough.(My sled is a 99 srx 700 by the way)
 
modsrx said:
well then ask turk he will give u good advise about it
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I was sort of hoping he might plug his two cents in on how it would work. Ive been bugging a few guys already and it seems the set up I am running right now is right but something just isn't working. I currently have www 8dn-20s 4.5 each hole 51/43 red spring at 80. I went there to buy a green secondary but he sold the one I ordered and then asked me what I was trying to do. When I told him he then made a call to Hauck and asked for the set up for an 02 srx (8dn-20s) Hauck told him they run a straight 49 cam with hauck green secondary and Hauck orange primary. He then sold me the springs saying that they ar e the same spring rate as the hauck springs. That just added another 45 bucks for springs you guy might tell me I dont need. I understand there are a bunch of different combos to get to where Im wanting to be I just want to find it before it breaks the bank.
 
I dont know, something is not right. I was in the garage last night and I can see on my new clutch sheeves where the belt is not getting all the way to the top. I still have about 3/4 of an inch till its at the top of the clutch sheeves. Im a bit frustrated.
 
a 1/4 to 3/8" from the top is as far as you will get the belt to go up in a yamaha clutch, 3/4" down means your not fully shifting the clutch's, power not there from engine is a possible cause.
As for all that stuff you just bought you just threw money out the window, that srx will never pull a straight 49 dehree helix on topend unless your gonna use empty weights and a great big spring, which will in turn slow the sled down, I would get your money back for that stuff.
The reason the w/w/w spring is softer then stock is it upshifts the clutchs faster, that inturn with a 51/43 helix your upshifting the clutch's in both the primary and secondary, you have all the right parts there originally, you can use the red secondary if your light and you can get the backshift where you are happy with it.
If the sled wont pull 83-8500rpms then your motor isnt making power and I would suggest you start to check a few things to see where the power loss is. The clutch set up you have been given is tried and true and is used by alot of srx riders from this site and I have had it in my own personal trail sleds, it works and it works very well.

1.) have the powervalves been cleaned? have you had the servo cover off and checked the operation of the servo motor and set the powervalves?

2.) whats your current jetting for the sled? what temps are average where youlive and ride in?

3.) I am also thinking you may be winding the clutch the wrong way or not enuff, when you get a helix wound to 80 degrees(clockwise) it takes a bit of power to get it to line up at the next ramp and bolt hole alignment.
 
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mrviper700 said:
a 1/4 to 3/8" from the top is as far as you will get the belt to go up in a yamaha clutch, 3/4 down means your not fully shifting the clutch's, power not there from engine is a possible cause.
As for all that stuff you just bought you just threw money out the window, that srx will never pull a straight 49 dehree helix on topend unless your gonna use empty weights and a great big spring, which will in turn slow the sled down, I would get your money back for that stuff.
The reason the w/w/w spring is softer then stock is it upshifts the clutchs faster, that inturn with a 51/43 helix your upshifting the clutch's in both the primary and secondary, you have all the right parts there originally, you can use the red secondary if your light and you can get the backshift where you are happy with it.
If the sled wont pull 83-8500rpms then your motor isnt making power and I would suggest you start to check a few things to see where the power loss is. The clutch set up you have been given is tried and true and is used by alot of srx riders from this site and I have had it in my own personal trail sleds, it works and it works very well.

1.) have the powervalves been cleaned? have you had the servo cover off and checked the operation of the servo motor and set the poervalves?
2.) whats your current jetting for the sled?
3.) I am also thinking you may be winding the clutch the wrong way or not enuff, when you get a helix wound to 80 degrees(clockwise) it takes a bit of power to get it to line up at the next ramp and bolt hole alignment.
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Well last night I had both clutch side pv and center pv and both slipped out effortlessly. One thing that was strange is that clutch side pv was soaking wet and center was reletively dry. This may be due to me running it with choke on too long since it was so cold last night the damn choke stuck open. Usually I can open the hood and push the choke rail back over by hand but it would not work. ONce I got the sled in the garage I sprayed some silicone on the choke rail and it started working perfectly. I never really cleared the motor out I just shut it off in the garage. It just does not make sence that the middle cylinder was firing right and the other was so rich. Note I also did a compression check. clutch side was 141psi middle 131psi 150 psi throttle side. As too winding I definitely wound clockwise and to the first line up for the bolts. The pad (buttons?) sit right at the bottom of the helix ramps and look right. As for jetting Ive never touched it personally because I never needed to. When I first got it It was freshly rebuilt and I had it 115mph on the speedo. It used to pull hard but then started being boggish sometimes and then would run strong again. I thought it was due to worn clutches thats why I planned a rebuild of the primary. Ive never cleaned carbs but figured dealer did when they rebuilt two of the cylinders for me. But I should never assume something is done unless I did it myself. I havnt checked servo motor lately so today ill go over and pop the cap. What do you think about 131psi in middle cylinder. It seems low since it was one of the repaired cylinders im pretty sure.
 
your correct, assuming that the jetting is right, the powervalves are adjusted correctly(not because they are not stuck but ADJUSTED correctly) would not be a very good strategy to find out why the sleds not making power.
The compression is not out of line, but without knowing if the jetting is correct,powervalves are adjusted correctly would be pretty much like chasing your tail, you have to work in a sequence in order to diagnose a problem, you can never just think well it must be ok because it was bought this way!

You are low on power so the jetting,sticking choke-and the adjustment of choke freeplay, just like running too big of jetting if its slightly on even a fraction of a inch will make it run very rich and low on power , powervalve adjustment, servo operation would be the first things I would check on.
 
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I forgot to mention that last season I did clean powervalves and adjusted them. After monkeying with them last night I Im going to pull the pipes and pull last pv and remove header pipes to readjust pv full open and close operation just to be possitive. I guess I have a few things to go and check on so hopefully Ill come back with good news. Lastely, how much should I be worrying about the carbs? Should I remove them and clean them now or would you say it does not seem like a carb issue. I know I'm being a pain in the a$$ but I just want to thank you guys for spreading you knowlede here.
 
I can save you alot of time and work, just start up sled, with plastic servo cover removed, and turn down the idle speed to under 900 rpm, this will fully open the powervalves, take a black perm. marker and mark the servo pulley and the housing. Shut off the sled. Now wheres theres the 2 bolts on the end of the power valve block, loosen those almost all the way out, now wiggle the cable end and it will pop open a gap between the housing sections, adjust this gap till its 2.5mm on each one by moving the threaded adjusters at the powervalve servo motor, make sure you keep the marks lined up on servo wheel and housing, do this for all 3 powervalves and then tighten up bolts, start engine up and readjust idle speed to 1800rpm, replace plastic cover.

Now, remove your carb rack and clean the carbs and note what jetting you have in them, pay attention to cleaning the choke plungers so they will return fully to closed position. When reinstalling carb rack, make sure choke freeplay of 1/8th of an inch is in the cable. meaning you should be able to move the choke lever a 1/8" in and out without moving the choke plungers. The throttle cable also needs to have this slack set in it.
 
mrviper700 said:
I can save you alot of time and work, just start up sled, with plastic servo cover removed, and turn down the idle speed to under 900 rpm, this will fully open the powervalves, take a black perm. marker and mark the servo pulley and the housing. Shut off the sled. Now wheres theres the 2 bolts on the end of the power valve block, loosen those almost all the way out, now wiggle the cable end and it will pop open a gap between the housing sections, adjust this gap till its 2.5mm on each one by moving the threaded adjusters at the powervalve servo motor, make sure you keep the marks lined up on servo wheel and housing, do this for all 3 powervalves and then tighten up bolts, start engine up and readjust idle speed to 1800rpm, replace plastic cover.

Now, remove your carb rack and clean the carbs and note what jetting you have in them, pay attention to cleaning the choke plungers so they will return fully to closed position. When reinstalling carb rack, make sure choke freeplay of 1/8th of an inch is in the cable. meaning you should be able to move the choke lever a 1/8" in and out without moving the choke plungers. The throttle cable also needs to have this slack set in it.
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Well I'll go get this stuff done and update how I make out. Thanks
 
mrviper700 said:
How'd ya make out today?
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Boy did I have fun measuring the gap in between housings with my calipers. I first readjusted all of them with the wrong gap. :o| After I found a metric ruler I measured my caliper to 2.5mm and tightened the lock screw down. I even after I got them adjusted I removed the pipes and headers on 2 and 3 just to double check and they were dead on flush in the cylinder at full open.
Next I pulled the air box and found that the dealer messed up putting it back in cause the boot for middle cylinder was pinched and not in all the way. I bet this was making it a little more lean there. I disconnected the choke and throttle cables popped the collant lines on each end and then 3 fuel lines and voila carbs were out. Note:After I loosened up #3 boot with reed inside the carbs came right off with out loosening the other two boot clamps. Im pretty lucky I didnt have any motor failure. They were slipped on all the way but not nearly tight enough. As for the carbs I sprayed the crap out of them with carb cleaner both out side and in. I removed the bottom bowl and sprayed all the holes I could get at as for the top cap with the 2 screws in it. THere was a lot more crap it the tops of the carbs and on the intake side. Thats all i did for cleaning. I was pretty intimidated once I got in there so I really didnt understand how I could tell the jetting I have. After I put it all together sled started on 3rd pull with choke full open. Right off the bat I can here the engine making the popping sound like it should when its running right. THe motor had a different sound now like it wants to shread the trail apart. Snappier sounding. As for rmps it was like 1 am when I finished so I couldnt really tell. I did hammer on it in the field a couple runs and honestly it feels like night and day. I also didnt mention the gunk buildup I cleaned out of the air box. It was sticky with all kinds of dirt stuck to it. When I get out of work Im going to go take a few runs an d see what my tach is telling me. I hope she jumps right up to 8300 at least. Mrviper700 Would the green be better secondary for me being around 220lbs?
 
I just took a few rips up the field outside and the sled is running real strong. It floats the skis very well and seems to pull hard. My engagement is at 3700rpm or so and it jumps right to 8000rmp and holds it. I dont have a far enough space to hold it open but right now I am much more pleased with the way the sled is running and performing. What would a green spring do to effect this setup?
 
I have 01 srx and im running pretty much the same setup, 4.5 grams in both holes 51/43 (rx-1 helix) w-w-w primary, with the green secondary currently wrapped at 70. I weigh about 250 geared up, stock track with 192 studs. My question is the 70 right for me or should i go lower i.e. 60, or go higher like 80? The reason Im asking is when i punch it it goes right to 8000 rpm, but it takes along time to get up to 8200-8400, by changing my wrap would this change this? thanks.
 
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