wilsviper
New member
I'm using stock clutching with shim in primary.I dropped my bottom sprocket to a 36t.
Have two Vipers.Wife rides total stock.My son drove it to race,we're about same weight.Stock gearing was neck and neck.With small sprocket,I'll jump 2-3 sled lengths
out of the hole.
Had Bender helix with polaris silver spring with stock gears,run the the same.
Won't pull this helix with 36t.
I leave this gearing in all the time,even in heavy snow,where the Bender would have to come out.
Most of our riding is on groomed trails.Works great,pulls hard out of corners.
Both Vipers run 192 picks in stock track.
Depends on your weight,everyone may not be able to do this.I,m about 180lbs.
Have two Vipers.Wife rides total stock.My son drove it to race,we're about same weight.Stock gearing was neck and neck.With small sprocket,I'll jump 2-3 sled lengths
out of the hole.
Had Bender helix with polaris silver spring with stock gears,run the the same.
Won't pull this helix with 36t.
I leave this gearing in all the time,even in heavy snow,where the Bender would have to come out.
Most of our riding is on groomed trails.Works great,pulls hard out of corners.
Both Vipers run 192 picks in stock track.
Depends on your weight,everyone may not be able to do this.I,m about 180lbs.
quebec#1
New member
mrviper700
VIP Lifetime Member
Quebec, I found the dyno sheet from dynoport on a 2002 viper, he shows the peak hp at 8500rpm, but at 8600rpm, its only .2 hp differance, he had it at 122hp@8500rpm with 75.4 ft.lbs of torq. and at 8600rpm it was 121.8hp and 74.4 ft lb.s of torq, I think its safe to say 8500-8600rpm is the sweet spot in a viper...LOL!
just for referance it drops to 119.1 hp at 8800rpm and torq also falls to 71.3
this is with 94 pump gas and the air density was only 94.9!! alot of times youll see the air density above 100%, like 102-104% they must be dynoing in a freezer with a fan...lol
by the way where was that first dyno sheet you had listed from, theres some scary low numbers on it??
just for referance it drops to 119.1 hp at 8800rpm and torq also falls to 71.3
this is with 94 pump gas and the air density was only 94.9!! alot of times youll see the air density above 100%, like 102-104% they must be dynoing in a freezer with a fan...lol
by the way where was that first dyno sheet you had listed from, theres some scary low numbers on it??
quebec#1
New member
I got them from this link ! http://www.m-performance.com/Sidor/dyno_yamaha.htmmrviper700 said:Quebec, I found the dyno sheet from dynoport on a 2002 viper, he shows the peak hp at 8500rpm, but at 8600rpm, its only .2 hp differance, he had it at 122hp@8500rpm with 75.4 ft.lbs of torq. and at 8600rpm it was 121.8hp and 74.4 ft lb.s of torq, I think its safe to say 8500-8600rpm is the sweet spot in a viper...LOL!
just for referance it drops to 119.1 hp at 8800rpm and torq also falls to 71.3
this is with 94 pump gas and the air density was only 94.9!! alot of times youll see the air density above 100%, like 102-104% they must be dynoing in a freezer with a fan...lol
by the way where was that first dyno sheet you had listed from, theres some scary low numbers on it??
I also think its safe to say 8500 to 8700 is right on.
I have a few mags over the years and ive seen hp ratings from 115 to 127 hp. Theirs was an article run by snowtech (I think !) a few years back and i remember reading that some of the earlier vipers' 2002's were the one's with the most hp's i think around 123 hp + 2 to 3 hp with your forced air induction. They also dyno tested a 2003 at only 115 hp. I will try and dig that article up !.
quebec#1
New member
I should have stated that the Can was removed on the 8100 peak rpm run. I'm was setup with helix and spring at 60 wrap. Would a 70 wrap and weight change make that much of a difference?
nodoo_s
New member
how do your clutches feel after a run. is one hotter than the other? i may have a used set of hc's to sell you cheap, i will look. i work in portland so if i have some we could meet. i run the hc's and my sled goes pretty good, really strong midrange for corner to corner running and i run the mbrp can also.
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Ideas
Try wrapping the secondary tighter but don't go past 80 or your top end will suffer. I have not had any luck with those 8EK weights. Have had good luck with HC's, 8DN-20's, 8BU-10's and even 89L's but those 8EK's are not very aggressive. If we lived closer I'd be glad to help ya. Good luck. I know it's frustrating but don't give up. Have you cleaned and checked the adjustment of your powervalves?
Madmatt
Try wrapping the secondary tighter but don't go past 80 or your top end will suffer. I have not had any luck with those 8EK weights. Have had good luck with HC's, 8DN-20's, 8BU-10's and even 89L's but those 8EK's are not very aggressive. If we lived closer I'd be glad to help ya. Good luck. I know it's frustrating but don't give up. Have you cleaned and checked the adjustment of your powervalves?
Madmatt
shoot me a pm i live close to you and would be willing to help you.we had a single pipe viper runing very good early this season.
Concept Carbon
New member
Zachalyse said:I should have stated that the Can was removed on the 8100 peak rpm run. I'm was setup with helix and spring at 60 wrap. Would a 70 wrap and weight change make that much of a difference?
yes run a 70 degree and 4.5 inner rivet, your gears are stock right.
Ya, all stock gears. How do I change the inner rivits and where do I get the new ones?
I wonder if I should I stud the ice ripper.
I wonder if I should I stud the ice ripper.
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Millinocket Rocket
New member
zach-- i would call woody's in topsham and ask for woody, tell him what parts you need. he might even have them in stock (reynolds never has clutching parts) not sure on the rivet changing-- i'm using hc's
EricMichael
New member
Zachalyse said:Ya, all stock gears. How do I change the inner rivits and where do I get the new ones?
I wonder if I should I stud the ice ripper.
all you have to do is take your weight out, the inner rivet is closest to the pin that holds the weight in place(heel), either grind one side some what flat and punch it out with a hammer and punch. I belive you can also drill them out. Go to your dealer and ask him for three 4.5gm rivets. They dont usually list the rivets with the gram weight at the dealer, or atleast here so just give them part # 90261-06033-00. Its easy and you probably would want to stud it sicne your bottom-mid range will be effected more now.
Would any brand dealer have 4.5gm rivets?
EricMichael
New member
I can only buy rivets here at a yamaha dealer, a friend owns an aftermarket parts/acc. shop and he doesn't have them either.
zachalyse
are you and youre buds messing around on any local ponds or feilds,my friends and i are always looking for new places and people.
are you and youre buds messing around on any local ponds or feilds,my friends and i are always looking for new places and people.
mustangzrule
New member
Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't you want to max the torque output, not the HP output? HP is a function of RPM. Your performance will depend on your TQ. Assuming I am right, you want to be around 8000 PRM per the pic posted by Quebec, wouldn't that be right?
Maybe the CVT clutching trans thing is beyond my understanding, but it seems to make sense that the harder pull (TQ) will accelerate you faster, HP is a function of power produced at given RPM.
I am into racing my 'stang, and you have to maximize your TQ per gear, but these sleds have that cool CVT to take advantage of the narrow 2 stroke power band. If they only made a CVT clutch and belt with the ability to handle 600 FT-LB..... Maybe I can be the first at the strip to own a 68 CVT Mustang...... When someone asks if it's an auto or a stick, I can say neither..... Now THAT would rock.... sorry didn't mean to hijack - just thinking out loud.
Maybe the CVT clutching trans thing is beyond my understanding, but it seems to make sense that the harder pull (TQ) will accelerate you faster, HP is a function of power produced at given RPM.
I am into racing my 'stang, and you have to maximize your TQ per gear, but these sleds have that cool CVT to take advantage of the narrow 2 stroke power band. If they only made a CVT clutch and belt with the ability to handle 600 FT-LB..... Maybe I can be the first at the strip to own a 68 CVT Mustang...... When someone asks if it's an auto or a stick, I can say neither..... Now THAT would rock.... sorry didn't mean to hijack - just thinking out loud.
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maxdlx
VIP Lifetime Member
Remember to many chefs spoil the soup. Pick one leader and follow them. You try to follow 5 guys you wil have a mess. Maxdlx
EricMichael said:all you have to do is take your weight out, the inner rivet is closest to the pin that holds the weight in place(heel), either grind one side some what flat and punch it out with a hammer and punch. I belive you can also drill them out. Go to your dealer and ask him for three 4.5gm rivets. They dont usually list the rivets with the gram weight at the dealer, or atleast here so just give them part # 90261-06033-00. Its easy and you probably would want to stud it sicne your bottom-mid range will be effected more now.
Part #90261-06033-00 is the stock rivits. I just left the dealership.
snoden700viper
Member
I gotta agree with maxdlx. I'm kinda lost on what you should do following this thread. I can tell you this, I have a stock 02 Viper that has seen 127 on the Dream Meter blasting across Lake Wawa and my brother on his 02 was right beside me. My sled shifts and peaks out at 8600 RPM. It doesn't creep up there either it blasts up to 8600 and seems to stay there period.