rpm help

2003VIPERER

2003VIPERER

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Oct 31, 2006
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49
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MARQUETTE MICHIGAN
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DID 4 GRAMS HEEL AND 4 GRAMS TIP. SLED HOOKS UP NICE. 47/41 ADVANT EDGE HELIX WITH GREEN SPRING AT 60 WRAP.THE ONLY PROBLEM I HAVE IS THAT AFTER RIDEING EITHER WOT OR SLOW MY RPMS STAY AT 40000. EVEN IF I HIT THE TROTTLE. THEY WONT GO DOWN TO IDLE. MY SLED WANTS TO MOVE RIGHT AWAY. SHOULD I TRY THE SECONDARY AT 70? MY RPMS CLIMB TO 8500 AND STAY.n i am rideing a 2003 viper with a 136" ripsaw. mbrp trail can and the rest stock. any one got a suggestion? :letitsnow
 
This happen to my sled too after installing heel clickers. Freinds SRX did the exact same. Is it because there is more weight in the clutch and it keeps the motor reving? I adjusted my idle down a little and it went away, but now it idles a little lower then it should (of course). I think someone mentioned it might be a lean idle condition and to turn the fuel screw out a 1/4 turn. Any know for sure if that's the root cause/fix? You can also flip the choke to 1/2 for a second and it should drop down for you.
 
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If it is doing that i would agree with turning the fuel screws out 1/4 turn and it will go away.
 
So we have a cure, but why does this keep happening when people add heel clickers? Anyone else added heel clickers and experienced this? Let get a count going. Me, SNOWRULES and 2003VIPERER makes 3.
 
It will actually happen with ANY aggressive type clutching, its not just h/c's, if you dont turn them out you will also get a bog when you smack the gas, this is from the motor being loaded harder then before.


The reason the rpm's hang up is the flatslide carb has more surface area then a roundslide does, the signal strength is much stronger because of this, so it has a tendency to run leaner, because it pulls more air, more surface area, more air. The factory settings are set up just barely rich enuff so the sled can idle and all without gassing the plugs, all you have to do is simply turn the screws out to 1.5-1.75 turns out and it will be fixed and you wont have the problem ever again. It also happens to bone stock sleds as well, vipers very common, srx's aslo do it. Dropping the idle speed is a lazy band aid fix and the correct fix is to remove the carb rack, flip them upside down and reset the screws, ....fixed!
 
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forgot to say the reason when you drop the idle speed down it works is because you make the slide cutaway gap smaller and you restrict the airflow more, making the mixture richer.
 
mrviper700 said:
It will actually happen with ANY aggressive type clutching, its not just h/c's, if you dont turn them out you will also get a bog when you smack the gas, this is from the motor being loaded harder then before.


The reason the rpm's hang up is the flatslide carb has more surface area then a roundslide does, the signal strength is much stronger because of this, so it has a tendency to run leaner, because it pulls more air, more surface area, more air. The factory settings are set up just barely rich enuff so the sled can idle and all without gassing the plugs, all you have to do is simply turn the screws out to 1.5-1.75 turns out and it will be fixed and you wont have the problem ever again. It also happens to bone stock sleds as well, vipers very common, srx's aslo do it. Dropping the idle speed is a lazy band aid fix and the correct fix is to remove the carb rack, flip them upside down and reset the screws, ....fixed!
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this is spot on. i experienced it this weekend. I went from heavy hitters to dual speed Heel Clickers and had the same idle down problem. With the heavy Hitters it idled down fine. WhenI went the The Clickers it wouldn't idle down unless I pulled the choke. I'm going to turn my screws out another halt turn. I hope this corrects the problem.
 
EricMichael said:
so if your idle is below 1800 because of the high idle problem the fuel screws need to be turned out right?
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If your sled is having a problem idling down after when you come to a stop turning the fuel screws out will help.
 
YamerDown said:
So we have a cure, but why does this keep happening when people add heel clickers? Anyone else added heel clickers and experienced this? Let get a count going. Me, SNOWRULES and 2003VIPERER makes 3.
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Yes, I experienced the same thing.

Only use the newer Heelclickers or stick the the OEM's!!! The older models that have the black powder coat on them have a tendancy to explode. This is due to their design. the Heel is not at a right angle to the arm, which prevents them from shifting out all the way (they hit the housing). Moreover, because they are not at right at a right angle the momentum cancels itself out also preventing the full shift. Look at your primary and see if you are getting full shift out. I had the older HC's in mine and I couldn't understand why I lost top end, well that's why. I was within miles of blowing my HC's up and probably destroying my clutch. Doc. replaced them with OEMs and the proper weight and now I have peace of mind and FULL shift out. He actually showed me with the Yamaha clutch how they won't fully shift, unless you machine the housing to allow for more room.

Use what you want, but arms are arms (for the most part) they all do the same thing. It's the weighting that's makes the performance. Doc personally showed me around 20 sets of HC's that literally exploded, one set put bullet sized holes through the motor, clutch gaurd and hood when they let go at WOT...yikes! Doc's team uses all OEM clutch parts in all 7 of their Yammie race sleds. They may do some machining, but as official dist. of most of the major after mkt. guys they have tested just about everything and stick with OEM's. just my 2 cents. I wish I had pics to better illustrate this.

mrviper700 - knows his stuff and will set you right, but I feel I have to divulge what I have learned.
 
Allvipedup said:
Yes, I experienced the same thing.

Only use the newer Heelclickers or stick the the OEM's!!! The older models that have the black powder coat on them have a tendancy to explode. This is due to their design. the Heel is not at a right angle to the arm, which prevents them from shifting out all the way (they hit the housing). Moreover, because they are not at right at a right angle the momentum cancels itself out also preventing the full shift. Look at your primary and see if you are getting full shift out. I had the older HC's in mine and I couldn't understand why I lost top end, well that's why. I was within miles of blowing my HC's up and probably destroying my clutch. Doc. replaced them with OEMs and the proper weight and now I have peace of mind and FULL shift out. He actually showed me with the Yamaha clutch how they won't fully shift, unless you machine the housing to allow for more room.

Use what you want, but arms are arms (for the most part) they all do the same thing. It's the weighting that's makes the performance. Doc personally showed me around 20 sets of HC's that literally exploded, one set put bullet sized holes through the motor, clutch gaurd and hood when they let go at WOT...yikes! Doc's team uses all OEM clutch parts in all 7 of their Yammie race sleds. They may do some machining, but as official dist. of most of the major after mkt. guys they have tested just about everything and stick with OEM's. just my 2 cents. I wish I had pics to better illustrate this.

mrviper700 - knows his stuff and will set you right, but I feel I have to divulge what I have learned.
Click to expand...

That is true and actually were the early versions of the heel clickers they included in their instructions that the primary on the yamaha's must be machined for clearance or they wouldn't shift out and clutch and weight damage could occur.
 
jtssrx said:
If your sled is having a problem idling down after when you come to a stop turning the fuel screws out will help.
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no I was just wondering cause my sled doesn;t idle at 1800 more like 1600 or lower..and if I turn the idle up any higher it does the problem your talking about "high idle" and you have to blip the choke to get it to bounce back down..i'm wondering that if my sled isn;t idling at 1800 now I may have to turn my fuel screws out to have an idle of (1800) without the idle stickin high..I believe they are 1-3/4 turns out from lightly seated but everyones opinion of lightly seated are diffrent
 
Eric - You are having the same problem. Put your idle back up to 1800 and turn your fuel screws out 1/4-1/2 turn.
 
archer said:
Hey JTSSRX are you running the lake yet? We would still like to come and hang out.
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Yep I'll be out there this weekend. Come ride my sled. It's starting to come around
 
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