Rambunctious
New member
So until they make a 2 stroke nitrous page ( hint hint) , this will be the official 2 stroke nitrous thread 
so , what do you have, what are your clutching setups, experiences etc.
I just installed a Nitrous Express kit from CB Performance and I am dialing it in.
It did serve its' main function in life, beating my buddy's Clutched APEX !!!
but I am working on clutching / RPM issues. It revs to 9200 and the ignition is sputtering ( as I pass the APEX
I'm adding some tip weight for rpm . and working on the insulation/heating of the bottle to keep it at 1000psi
so , what do you have, what are your clutching setups, experiences etc.
I just installed a Nitrous Express kit from CB Performance and I am dialing it in.
It did serve its' main function in life, beating my buddy's Clutched APEX !!!
but I am working on clutching / RPM issues. It revs to 9200 and the ignition is sputtering ( as I pass the APEX
I'm adding some tip weight for rpm . and working on the insulation/heating of the bottle to keep it at 1000psi
Attachments
Do you have air brakes on there,lol
What's the tank on top of the clutch cover?
What's the tank on top of the clutch cover?
pro116 said:
I believe it holds race fuel to mix with the nos
pro116 said:
My guess is race a tank of race fuel
Come out to anchor bay to tune it. Lots of ice. Bring your buddy and his Apex.
nos systems (holley) makes a thermostatically controlled bottle heater and they sell bottle blankets... Keeping the nitrous pressure consistent will help from BURNDOWNS!!! I like the aux. fuel tank,,,but,,maybe make a belt shield out of 6061 T6 or buy that belting material (the kind they use for conveyor belts at the grocery store!!!) If that belt decides to come apart (or the clutches) it will make a BIG MESS if it hits that fuel tank!!! Keeping the nitrous at 900psi is a lot easier than keeping it at 1000 psi!!! if you need more nitrous, just lean out the fuel jets OR lower the fuel pump pressure!!! You could always use CHEAPER race gas (less octane) and get it to FLY quicker,,, but you risk overheating the pistons with CHEAPER racegas!!! (less octane)... REMEMBER to ALWAYS PREMIX the racefuel WHATEVER octane you use... The biggest NO-NO is the guys who put 118 lowlead and DONT PREMIX!!!.. USE synthetic oil when you premix!!!! It keeps the motor together a little longer!!!
Yes,,, I DO KNOW A LITTLE ABOUT NITROUS!!!!
TJ500
Member
nosboy said:
How much is "a little longer"?
Sounds like a dirty pipe bomb to me.... Premix or no premix... lol
Rambunctious
New member
I have Klotz in the high octane reservoir ( 110 octane)
I have the pressure solenoid ( seen right after the nitrous tank) to manage the pressure of the nitrous. it closes the heater circuit relay at 900, and opens at 1050psi.
the problem is that the heater is running full duty cycle to stay above 900.
i did wrap the bottom half of the tank with aluminum ( diamond plate scrap) and run a tail of this alum to the exhaust pipes to collect conducted heat , not just radiated heat. This works good as I saw 1000 psi most of the day, just looks junkie right now, so I will build a better looking "heatwrap"
the other idea was to plumb some coolant from the carb heater circuit ( since i don't heat the carbs anyway) to help preheat. wrap a few coils like a condensor and return to the cooling system .
one could use the same pressure solenoid to trigger a high flow valve for the coolant line.
I have a remote fuel pressure gage and nitrous pressure gage on the cluster. I do not have a fuel pressure solenoid to trigger off the nitrous power in the event of low fuel pressure though. I may get that, for now I need to watch the fuel pressure.
speaking of fuel pressure... It seems to vary quite a bit. from 6.5 psi to 8.5 psi on occasion. I wonder if the fuel in the sender(gage) line is vaporizing and rasing in pressure. drops off to 6.5-7.0 psi quickly when I activate the NOS.
Cluching is the main issue. I am bumping the (imposed SRX) rev limiter at 9200. It has a sputter and I have learned that the ignition begins to retard after 8700 and begins to cutout after 9000.
I would like to see some good plugs and bad plugs pics from someone after nitrous to assure I am jetted properly. I did follwo the NX charts for jets and pressure for NOs and fuel. Nitrous definitely "cleans" teh plugs but mine look light brown on the ceramic and the "heat " line on the ground strap is at the 90 bend
things in the back of my mind?
hitting nos on a VERY cold day
freezing/cracking the reeds
getting cluthcin to work for both on and off the NOS
getting an ignition ( viper or race CDI) to run higher rpm
anyone else running NOS?
Ramb
I have the pressure solenoid ( seen right after the nitrous tank) to manage the pressure of the nitrous. it closes the heater circuit relay at 900, and opens at 1050psi.
the problem is that the heater is running full duty cycle to stay above 900.
i did wrap the bottom half of the tank with aluminum ( diamond plate scrap) and run a tail of this alum to the exhaust pipes to collect conducted heat , not just radiated heat. This works good as I saw 1000 psi most of the day, just looks junkie right now, so I will build a better looking "heatwrap"
the other idea was to plumb some coolant from the carb heater circuit ( since i don't heat the carbs anyway) to help preheat. wrap a few coils like a condensor and return to the cooling system .
one could use the same pressure solenoid to trigger a high flow valve for the coolant line.
I have a remote fuel pressure gage and nitrous pressure gage on the cluster. I do not have a fuel pressure solenoid to trigger off the nitrous power in the event of low fuel pressure though. I may get that, for now I need to watch the fuel pressure.
speaking of fuel pressure... It seems to vary quite a bit. from 6.5 psi to 8.5 psi on occasion. I wonder if the fuel in the sender(gage) line is vaporizing and rasing in pressure. drops off to 6.5-7.0 psi quickly when I activate the NOS.
Cluching is the main issue. I am bumping the (imposed SRX) rev limiter at 9200. It has a sputter and I have learned that the ignition begins to retard after 8700 and begins to cutout after 9000.
I would like to see some good plugs and bad plugs pics from someone after nitrous to assure I am jetted properly. I did follwo the NX charts for jets and pressure for NOs and fuel. Nitrous definitely "cleans" teh plugs but mine look light brown on the ceramic and the "heat " line on the ground strap is at the 90 bend
things in the back of my mind?
hitting nos on a VERY cold day
freezing/cracking the reeds
getting cluthcin to work for both on and off the NOS
getting an ignition ( viper or race CDI) to run higher rpm
anyone else running NOS?
Ramb
How big of a shot are you running?
If you want to keep it clutched for off the bottle and want to do something kwik just put a steeper helix on when you run the bottle it takes 3-5 mintutes to do.
Rambunctious
New member
I am at 45HP
I started at 30hp. but during testing I was quite dissapointed
however, I now know that the poor first run was due to the fact that I am bumping the rev limit, and ....well.....I was out of NOS after pissign most away showign off teh purge spray
so I got mad and put in the 45 HP jets before learning this
on my run with the APEX buddy, I had 45Hp shot but was at 9200 RPM ( but still beat him)_
I am hoping that when I get the clutching right. It will pull hard.
I want to run 90% of the day off gas, then hit it when we stop in a field or I scoot by someone on demand... because I can
so I don't want to have to switch out helixes if I can help it
Ramb
I started at 30hp. but during testing I was quite dissapointed
however, I now know that the poor first run was due to the fact that I am bumping the rev limit, and ....well.....I was out of NOS after pissign most away showign off teh purge spray
so I got mad and put in the 45 HP jets before learning this
on my run with the APEX buddy, I had 45Hp shot but was at 9200 RPM ( but still beat him)_
I am hoping that when I get the clutching right. It will pull hard.
I want to run 90% of the day off gas, then hit it when we stop in a field or I scoot by someone on demand... because I can
so I don't want to have to switch out helixes if I can help it
Ramb
With 45 hp you shouldn't need race fuel just premium.
The race fuel at 15hp per cyl is killing you!!! The nitrous line is WAY TOO LONG you need to regulate that fuel pressure CONSISTENTLY!!! A HOLLEY blue fuel pump with the holley regulator will work FINE!!! The racefuel has a REAL HARD time vaporizing to begin with... ITS NOT vaporizing in your line!!!! Its not getting hot enough!!! more info when i get out of the tub!!! seeya
Rambunctious
New member
I wonder why the fuel pressure goes high.
the strange thing is that the fuel pump is not 100% duty rated, so I turn it on when i want to hit the nitrous. but mostly leave it off. but the fuel pressure is held when the pump is off. so when the pump is off, the pressure will climb to 8.5 or so.... on occasion.
what could cause this?
what if ( ok, there is) air in the fuel gauge line. could this air be warmed by engine compartment and raise the pressure until the solenoid is activateand bleed teh pressure to the pump regulated 6.5?psi????
should I purge the gauge line so that I have fuel all the way to the gage?
I dont' know where else I can mount the nitrous to get a shorter line. except on the belt guard. ( that's how CB performance had theirs)
I could reduce the length by about 20% with a more direct route I guess.
why not 110 octane. it does not vaporize?
how do I know for sure that 93 is ok. 100+ was recommended by CB Performance.
Ramb
the strange thing is that the fuel pump is not 100% duty rated, so I turn it on when i want to hit the nitrous. but mostly leave it off. but the fuel pressure is held when the pump is off. so when the pump is off, the pressure will climb to 8.5 or so.... on occasion.
what could cause this?
what if ( ok, there is) air in the fuel gauge line. could this air be warmed by engine compartment and raise the pressure until the solenoid is activateand bleed teh pressure to the pump regulated 6.5?psi????
should I purge the gauge line so that I have fuel all the way to the gage?
I dont' know where else I can mount the nitrous to get a shorter line. except on the belt guard. ( that's how CB performance had theirs)
I could reduce the length by about 20% with a more direct route I guess.
why not 110 octane. it does not vaporize?
how do I know for sure that 93 is ok. 100+ was recommended by CB Performance.
Ramb
your motor doesnt make much HP at all at 9200 RPM.. if you want to step up to a 10,000 rpm module,,,you need the CARBS AND PIPES to FLOW 10,000 rpm FLOW NUMBERS!!!!. Heavier flyweights (like the HEAVIEST you can find) will help with the rpm's BUT,,, you will be a real DOG off the line!!!! I've YET to find someone who has the best of both worlds!!! You could either setup your sled to be CRAZY FAST on nitrous ,,,,OR,,,, be a "fast" trail sled,,,, but,,,, you CANNOT get the best of both worlds!!! Try a tank of 92 or 93 octane with 10% toluol or 10% MEK (from a paint supply store).. GET YOUR fuel pressure CORRECT,,Keep the bottle at 900psi and SHORTEN your NITROUS and fuel lines to the SHOrTEST you can possibly shorten them... ALSO wrapping them with insulation will keep you more consistent!!! The purge sonenoid is WAY COOL,,,BUT,,,,DUMB IDEA!!! Youre not running a 500HPSHOT on a 1000hp motor!!! You don't need to PURGE IT!!! Purging,,,in your application,,, COOLS DOWN the lines and drops pressure to the jets!!!! BAD IDEA!!!! RUNNING a cooling system line with 190-200 degree anti freeze is INSANE ALSO!!!! YOU ARE TRYING to keep a consistent temperature throughout the WHOLE BOTTLE!!! A full bottle of nitrous is around 60-65% full (liquid) and when you wrap the cooling system hoses around the bottle and the LIQUID touches the heated area,,, the hoses will heat up the nitrous... AS YOU USE NITROUS and the liquid level drops,,,, you heat up the AIR in the bottle and it doesnt do a DAMN THING!!! the ambient air temperature and underhood temps VARIATE so DRASTICALLY,,, you NEED the bottle WRAPPED UP with as MUCH INSULATION as you possibly could shove in there AND A temperature controlled bottle heater!!!! the more consistent you become with bottle temperature and FUEL PRESSURE, the MORE CONSISTENT your nitrous system will be!!! Then you could TUNE it to WORK LIKE MAD!!! (EGT's are a MUST!!!)
the pressure goes high because the fuel and lines are heating up and expanding.. There is also a bunch of air in there.. They recommend 100+ because its kind of like an insurance policy... If your bottle pressure is higher than recommended, the 100 will slow down the burn.. if you bought this system from that BRUCE guy, you can call him and he will tell you everything I am telling you and PROBABLY A LOT MORE!!!!The nitrous bottle on the belt guard will probably help a LOT and you could find a place for the fuel tank somewhere else????? 100 lowlead and higher octane fuels are designed to resist vaporization in the summertime because they are basically designed for summertime use!!! When the fuel is 10 degrees,,, IT HAS A REAL HARD time trying tovaporize ... Thats why vaporizing in your fuel line isn't going to happen!!! Do you have liquid filled gauges????? You need to buy them if you don't.. That could also be a problem in the wintertime...I am suggesting the toluol or MEK to aid in the volatility of the fuel, raise the octane,and tame the flame kernel. Are you running STOCK spark plugs???? You can talk to bruce and he will steer you in the right direction.. I've spent a half hour on the phone a few months ago and i was really impressed with BRUCE.. Theres 1 or 2 other guys who really impress me and they are supertuner (freddie klies) and mark Giamattei... I could talk to Mark for DAYS!!!! Freddie is SUPER BUSY and I could talk to him for days too!!!! There are guys out there who couldnt figure out a nitrous system IF IT HIT THEM IN THE FACE!!!! I cannot bad rap anyone in perticular, because SOMEONE will kick me off TOTALLYAMAHA website again!!! Gotta watch what you say and who you say it to around here!!!! BRUCE will be happy to tell you all this stuff and guide you in the right direction!!!! I don't agree with ALL of his suggestions,,, but,,, then again,, HE PROBABLY don't agree with mine!!! Gary Oles nosboy
bluewho
Active member
If you put a can on instead of the muffler there would be room beside it for the bottle!I also wonder if the hammertime two speed wieghts would work better.
Thats where I put my bottle on my SRX!!!! I had to use a RPC can to make it fit!!! i was really impressed with that rpc can!!!!!
bluewho
Active member
Now if you could wrap the bottle in a thermo pac like a car battery warmer that runs on 12v instead of 110 that would be cool......... or warm!!!