shotym2
New member
I just finished installing a new track, 136" MM skid and all new bearings in my SX. I centered the track and tightened it until it just stops ratcheting and have a few issues.
1 - it does not seem to roll freely. On deceleration with a fully closed throttle it almost seems like the brake is dragging but I checked and it is loose. Is it just all the new bearings need to wear in a little or is something wrong? Limiter straps are loose, maybe too loose? I have only put about 20 miles on it so do you think it will free up some?
2 - It is alot louder than before but I will attribute that to the 1 1/4 track.
3 - Is the clutch offset measured with the secondary tight to the bearing or away from it? there is about 2 mm of slop side to side on the splines. I can only get about 13mm offset at best even with all of the outside shims removed. Chain side seems to be aligned and shaft is secure. Engine was not moved and cl measurement is within 1 mm. I did not measure it when I tore it down so have no idea if it was ever correct.
4- Primary engagement rpm is way down, sled is moving at 3000 rpm.( If anything the belt is loose and almost worn out.) It bogs until it hits 5000 and then it lifts the skis and it gets fun. Before the track change it was about 42-4400 rpm.
Where do I start. thx
1 - it does not seem to roll freely. On deceleration with a fully closed throttle it almost seems like the brake is dragging but I checked and it is loose. Is it just all the new bearings need to wear in a little or is something wrong? Limiter straps are loose, maybe too loose? I have only put about 20 miles on it so do you think it will free up some?
2 - It is alot louder than before but I will attribute that to the 1 1/4 track.
3 - Is the clutch offset measured with the secondary tight to the bearing or away from it? there is about 2 mm of slop side to side on the splines. I can only get about 13mm offset at best even with all of the outside shims removed. Chain side seems to be aligned and shaft is secure. Engine was not moved and cl measurement is within 1 mm. I did not measure it when I tore it down so have no idea if it was ever correct.
4- Primary engagement rpm is way down, sled is moving at 3000 rpm.( If anything the belt is loose and almost worn out.) It bogs until it hits 5000 and then it lifts the skis and it gets fun. Before the track change it was about 42-4400 rpm.
Where do I start. thx
Did you put your chain too tight.Also when you put a brand new track on it takes a few miles before the track loosen's up and gets all the bends out from being rolled up.
The track will be a little louder going to a taller lug.The primary spring could have broke I have seen that before and it causes it to engage really low.
The track will be a little louder going to a taller lug.The primary spring could have broke I have seen that before and it causes it to engage really low.
yamaholic22
Active member
To be honest there are so many places something could be off that you're going to just need a system of elimination. It would be nice to have a trained ear hear the noise, could probably very quickly tell you what it is but it makes hard on here for obvious reasons. One place to check GOOD is the chaincase and the order of all the spacers and washers. If you aren't sure of the order of things anymore and you didn't draw a picture when you disassembled it, go to www.yamaha-motor.com and look at the parts catalog/fiche for your sled, and it will show you how it all goes back together. You could also get a service manual. Also as Pro116 said chain tension is critical and will cause those problems as well. Most people tighten their chain WAY too tight. You do NOT need a wrench to tighten the chain, dont even put it finger tight. Go as tight as you can with your fingers and then back it off a solid half turn, then tighten the jam nut. As for the other side (the speedo side) of the driveshaft, make sure you didn't tighten the allen screws on the bearings before you had everything in the chaincase tight (mainly the bottom gear) or the shaft may be out of line. Make sure you put your parking brake assembly back together right so that it is not rubbing on the brake disc somehow. Try those things for now and get back with what you find.
shotym2
New member
Took it out for a shake down after work with no changes. Even though it was cold out it seemed to be a bit looser on decel for a while. Then one time after a hard pull i let off and at about 15 mph the track noise got louder and slowed quickly. Did another launch and decel same thing. checked the brake disc and it was cold, checked temp of both clutches and were barely warm to touch. slacked off chain and did a couple more pulls, no better. Checked track alignment and rails are nicley centered on clips. felt all of the bearings and none were at all warm.
Did notice that when i reved to engagement the suspension occaisionally lifts slightly before rolling. Could there be a bushing or shim missing in the upper idlers to add that much friction or could it be being dragged down by the primary not disengaging until low RPM.
Checked primary spring visually and seems intact but engages/disengages at about 2800-3000 so spring must be pooched.
Too damn cold out to be lying in a snowbank feeling up its bearings, will leave it until after the weekend and will pull chain cover off and start again there.
Will reply with any results.
thanks again.
Did notice that when i reved to engagement the suspension occaisionally lifts slightly before rolling. Could there be a bushing or shim missing in the upper idlers to add that much friction or could it be being dragged down by the primary not disengaging until low RPM.
Checked primary spring visually and seems intact but engages/disengages at about 2800-3000 so spring must be pooched.
Too damn cold out to be lying in a snowbank feeling up its bearings, will leave it until after the weekend and will pull chain cover off and start again there.
Will reply with any results.
thanks again.
shotym2
New member
I finally got around to pulling the chain cover off. Once i removed the belt and chain and gave the jackshaft a spin found that the brake was grabbing in one spot. R and R the caliper and it seems to be better. Chain was relatively loose but not too loose so left it about same. Shortened up the limiter straps to try get a little less pressure on the front of the rails. I also shimmed the secondary to about 15mm offset. It has no play now. Didn't do anything to the primary yet other than check for a broken spring(its feel OK). Took it out for a run and it was much better, actually rolled back when i stopped on a small bump. Engagement is still low but after 20 miles both clutches were only warm to touch so can't be that bad. Would not mind the low engagement as it is right on the thumb but the 600 is underpowered down low and bogs badly. Will have to look at the cluch soon but can live with it for now.
thanks for all the help.
thanks for all the help.
do you have heat exchanger guards and or tunnel protectors? if you do they will hit the track and drag baddly. you will need to notch the track for them. they are designed around a 3/4in track, the lug where they interfere will need to be that height.
if you have U shaped guards, take them out and cut one side off them so they are L shaped, then install them so they line up with the center of the cooler guards. this way you wont need to cut as much width out of the track.
if you have U shaped guards, take them out and cut one side off them so they are L shaped, then install them so they line up with the center of the cooler guards. this way you wont need to cut as much width out of the track.
shotym2
New member
No H/E guards or tunnel strips installed. I took it out for a decent 50 mile run after work tonight and seems OK. No marks on the tunnel top or sides and good clearance on the front. Engagement is consistent at about 29-3000 rpm and does about 20mph at 4000 rpm. A bit boggy off the start but wicked pull out of the corners. Will try to find a new spring to install and see if it better on the bottom end.
Dwight
Dwight
shotym2
New member
Did another good day with it. The quick slow down is caused by the primary clutch not diesngaging until under 3K, basically engine braking. noise is stil lthere but i am sure it is just the way it is. Making the secondary solid on the jackshat doesn't seem to bother it, there is a little squeak at engagement but the belt is pretty much thrashed anyway so is likely the problem. Called the local dealer ofr a WSW spring, they didn't have it any way but wanted $47 for it. Said it was the most expensive stock spring they had in the book. Still looking for one of these.
thanks
thanks
FuzzButt
New member
I'm pretty sure I paid $22 for my short cover WSW spring. You should try another dealer.
shotym2
New member
I *think* i might have solved the low engagement problem. Took the primary apart and the roller bushings(15mm) are pretty much gone. go to the dealer and they have only 2 rollers and bushings....wants $82.00 + tax for the pair, politely asked parts guy if he was serious. He was serious but even he was astonished at the price. So... do they really cost over $40 each? The rollers are in good shape, is there anything else that could be used in there that might stand up better? Can other manufacturers rollers be adapted to work?
thanks in advance.
Dwight
thanks in advance.
Dwight
