vmax ran hot

tb_600dx

tb_600dx

New member
Joined
May 22, 2006
Messages
28
Age
48
Location
newfoundland
Hey Guys,

Was Out For A Run With A Bunch Of Guys Saturday Night And There Were Times We Came Across Low Snow Conditions That Lasted For Longer Than I Wished. After A While My Water Temp Light Came On And As Soon As I Noticed It I Moved Off Of The Trail Into Deeper Snow When I Could Find A Place. I Let Her Cool Down For A While And When I Started Up The Light Was Off And I Could Run For About 6-7 Miles Before The Light Came Back On. So I Would Pull Over And Shut Her Off And Wait For Her To Cool Down Again.

My Question Is This: "is This Likely Just Due To Lack Of Snow Getting On My Heat Exchangers Or Is There Other Issues With My Cooling System That I Should Look Into". Had To Pull Over And Shut Down Three Times On The Way Home. The Outside Temp Was Around -18c. Windchill About -30c When Moving.

Never Ran Hard After The First Time The Light Came On But Is There A Chance I Have Done Some Damage Due To Overheating. Went Out This Morning, Flipped The Choke, And Turned The Key And She Fired Up Right Away The Same As Always.idle Was A Little High But Thats Due To Cold And Not Warmed Up.
 
Hmm, First forget about windchill helping cool the sled any. Metal parts only see ambient temperatures. The -18C is -0.4F so air temp did not have a factor on cooling or for that matter why it was running hot.

You need to have snow to cool the sled. There is no way around that. The snow cools the heat exchangers.

Now if your sled runs fine on snow covered trails I would not worry about it. The warning light comes on a bit early. As long as your jetting was correct for the temp/altitude and you allowed for proper warm-up/cool-downs then it is likely there is nothing wrong. You might want to do a flush and fill of your coolant. Maybe it is going bad. You might have an air bubble as well.

Do you hear any odd noises or feel out of place vibrations now?

This is a shot in the dark as I have never really overheated up a sled that was due to anything but marginal snow conditions.
 
jwiedmayer said:
you could always put some snow on the running boards in this situation also.
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Not on that old girl..there inside the tunnel.

@tb_600dx,

i think you;ll be fine if you shut her down and didn;t run to long them
lights come on sooner than they need to, (160ish deg.)
 
Thanks Guys.

She Wasn't Ran For Very Long After The Light Came On And Up Until That Night I Had Never Run In Any Low Snow Conditions For An Extended Period Of Time. Never Had A Cooling Issue Before And So Far This Season I Have Put On About 550-600 Miles.

There Wasn't That Night Or Anytime Today Any Strange/new Sounds Or Vibrations. Started Right Up Same As Usual.

Guess A System Flush And Fill Is Probably The Best Choice For Me.
Any Tips For Doing This As I Haven't Done It Before. I Don't Imagine It Is Very Difficult. would Automotive 50/50 Mix Work Or Should I Stay With A Type For Snowmobiles. It Is All Glycol Based Isn't It?
 
tb_600dx said:
Guess A System Flush And Fill Is Probably The Best Choice For Me.
Any Tips For Doing This As I Haven't Done It Before. I Don't Imagine It Is Very Difficult. would Automotive 50/50 Mix Work Or Should I Stay With A Type For Snowmobiles. It Is All Glycol Based Isn't It?
Click to expand...
No,,make sure you mix it 60/40 with good soft water..
i think any good automotive anti-freeze shoul work, i.e, Prestone .

there is two drain bolts up under the Y pipe you'll have to pull your
exhost all off to get at, there on the lower case.
 
:2strokes: reccommended coolent-high quality ethylene glyclol. containing corrosion inhibitor at a 60/40 mix.-right from yammy factory service manual.total for 600 is 4.86 us quarts or 4.6 litres.
 
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cougar1985 said:
reccommended coolent-high quality ethylene glyclol. containing corrosion inhibitor at a 60/40 mix.-right from yammy factory service manual.total for 600 is 4.86 us quarts or 4.6 litres.
Click to expand...
I think any coolent now days will be that???
 
Ya but not the "Dual blend" or Dexcool type. You should use the "Green" stuff only. 60/40 is fine. I would buy the their water as well or at least use distilled water. You don't want any city water type of crap in the coolant (minerals and additives) so good clean water is best.

Changing it might be overkill but it is added insurance and should only cost a few bucks. There is an article in the tech pages on some of what you need to do. You will have to adapt it a but for your sled but all the parts are there but might be in different places but the theory is the same. See http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/aaTECH/BleedingCoolant/ViperCoolantBleeding.htm for the info.
 
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