Jaysterb1
New member
My brother has a 97 and he's asking for some procedures on changing out the track. The technical pages on totallyamaha.com have a page on track replacement but it doesn't specify which model. Will this page work?
Thx
Thx
kysledneck
New member
Did not change the track but could have switched out the drivers! Big job! Remove the air box, carbs, chaincase, replace the jack shaft bearings, new seals in the chain case, chain case bearings, speedo bearing (lower bearing, brake system, then the drivers, Track will be ready to replace! Reverse order!
yamaholic22
Active member
kysledneck said:
Dan you got any miles on this year? How have you been?
FuzzButt
New member
Just follow the tech page instructions to the "T" and you should not have any issues. With 2 guys and the right tools maybe 2 hour job. The most difficult thing is getting the skid back in correctly. I tried it twice and kept getting the front arm below the drivers.
Remember everything is metric, that includes the Allen bolts that secure the speedo bearing on the inside of the tunnel.
You do not need to remove the brakes just the parking brake. Get new seals. Take notes and pictures. The blowup of the chaincase is important to reference as the order of the hears and spacers is important and the top and bottom are different so keep them separate. You only need to remove the belt and secondary on the left side of the sled. The exhaust, parking brake, battery (if you have one), chaincase. You can leave the airbox on it as well as the carbs unless you really feel the need to replace the jackshaft bearings (kind of overkill unless you think your's is going bad (I have had one go in 25 years of riding it's not pretty but there are warning signs)). Even then I think the carbs can stay just cover the throats.
It is not too difficult. Possibly the easiest track swap I have ever done. I remember the 8 hour ordeal it was to swap out a track on a Phazer. Nearly that long to do the drive shaft that we bent as well. The Proaction is easy. Just go in prepared.
One last thing. Chances are the keyway that is on the jackshaft has rusted to the brake rotor. You might want to hit it with PB blaster before you try and slide the rotor off the jackshaft.
Remember everything is metric, that includes the Allen bolts that secure the speedo bearing on the inside of the tunnel.
You do not need to remove the brakes just the parking brake. Get new seals. Take notes and pictures. The blowup of the chaincase is important to reference as the order of the hears and spacers is important and the top and bottom are different so keep them separate. You only need to remove the belt and secondary on the left side of the sled. The exhaust, parking brake, battery (if you have one), chaincase. You can leave the airbox on it as well as the carbs unless you really feel the need to replace the jackshaft bearings (kind of overkill unless you think your's is going bad (I have had one go in 25 years of riding it's not pretty but there are warning signs)). Even then I think the carbs can stay just cover the throats.
It is not too difficult. Possibly the easiest track swap I have ever done. I remember the 8 hour ordeal it was to swap out a track on a Phazer. Nearly that long to do the drive shaft that we bent as well. The Proaction is easy. Just go in prepared.
One last thing. Chances are the keyway that is on the jackshaft has rusted to the brake rotor. You might want to hit it with PB blaster before you try and slide the rotor off the jackshaft.
flying dutchman
Member
Like Fuzzbutt said..........
I just went through the same thing and used the instructions from the tech pages. The info is right on the money. The chaincase removal turned out to be quite easy.
Watch the oring seals, and the order of the chain/gears, spacers etc.
Removing the bottom bolt on the transfer rods helped get the susp back in.
For rookies in the Yami track change dept, it took us about 4-1/2 hrs.
Take your time, pay attention to details and it'll work out.
I just went through the same thing and used the instructions from the tech pages. The info is right on the money. The chaincase removal turned out to be quite easy.
Watch the oring seals, and the order of the chain/gears, spacers etc.
Removing the bottom bolt on the transfer rods helped get the susp back in.
For rookies in the Yami track change dept, it took us about 4-1/2 hrs.
Take your time, pay attention to details and it'll work out.
make sure you use lock-tite on the bottom gear and suspension bolts.
Jaysterb1
New member
Thanks guys!