Are any of the twin pipes (97 600) any good?

Yama49601

Yama49601

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Jan 5, 2006
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Can anyone give me any information on Power Inc. pipes for a 600 twin? Are they worth buying? I've read that the Benders actually lowered torque and that they quit selling them because of that? What about the Power Inc.'s? My friend is thinking about buying a set if they're any good and wanted me to ask. Thanks a lot.
 
pipes on a twin can be problematic. i considerd it but decided i like motors to last awhile so i didnt do it. there should be some old posts on this in here somewhere. gl.
 
I'd have to agree with Maim. Our local dealer had a set sitting on the shelf for years. After inquiring about them, he recommended to stay away. They are very finicky, hard to tune. After doing some research, I did not find too many good reports.
There are several little mods you can do that will give you better performance, for a lot less money and no headaches.
 
the 1994-96 vmax 500-600 twins really responded well to the twin pipes as well as the exciter 570 if a balancer was installed.
 
I will second that, I have a set of twins on my 95 600, it responded very well to them, just took a bit of tuning to get em to work well, but once I made the right adjustments all is good. I've been running them for 2 seasons now on my 600 motor that has almost 6000 miles on it and no problems.

srv540 said:
the 1994-96 vmax 500-600 twins really responded well to the twin pipes as well as the exciter 570 if a balancer was installed.
Click to expand...
 
Motion Carried. I just finished tuning the engine to a set of GYT twins along with the Yamaha recommended clutch settings for primary and secondary and my 95 600 is an animal with 96 woody's down the center. This past weekend I ran the trails @ 70 mph @ 7,600 rpm for miles on end.
 
fleet man said:
Motion Carried. I just finished tuning the engine to a set of GYT twins along with the Yamaha recommended clutch settings for primary and secondary and my 95 600 is an animal with 96 woody's down the center. This past weekend I ran the trails @ 70 mph @ 7,600 rpm for miles on end.
Click to expand...

What settings are you using on your jetting? Just curious,.. at first I tried going with what Yami recomended but had to fine tune the needle a bit leaner than recomended, haven't had a problem yet after 2 seasons, and am averaging 11-14mpg depending on conditions and temp. And like you said, this sled is an animal compared to what it was stock. Also, I didn't know Yami made any suggestions for the secondary, what did you adjust on that, I know the changes to the primary, but I never did anything to the secondary.
 
When I got mine a few weeks ago it was a gas guzzlin' son of a beehive that was either 0-25 mph or wide open. No midrange whatsoever. And suck fuel!!!! I put on 25 miles and went through almost a full tank. Now mind ya, this is to replace my SRV 540. After a few miles I wished I had my 540 back.

I did some reading on this site and found all the clutching, tuning, jetting, all the info I could find and did some comparison from all the posts and what Yamaha had recommended and come up with my own receipe.


With GYT twins the Yami gods said to go 156.3 mains, and Q-8 nozzles with the clip 2nd from top, 1-1/8 out on air screw. Clutch engagemant 4-4,200 with max rpm 8,200-8,300. use a 8mm head gasket. (is that the thin or thick one?) no clutch rework needed according to them. My mistake on the previous post. The clutching stuff I got from this site. Thanks guys!!

Exciter570, what did you do to your primary? I need to massage that a bit.

The info I got from here pretty much followed suit. Except I added one bit of advice from this site and ordered a silver secondary spring and 96 woody's picks with all the goodies Yamaha recommended.

Ok, christmas presents arrive and it's time to tear into it.
I remove the carbs and get ready to clean, install new parts and adjust. As I was removing the carbs I noticed there was a rivet in the corner of the head gasket that was exposed. If memory serves that is not the thin head gasket everyone here recommends. Oh, well next time.... Anywho... I look down the barrels and noticed the left carb was open about 1/4 inch and the right was almost closed. I guess thats why the air screws were out almost 3 turns! The stock carbs DID have 156.3 mains already installed with the clip in the 3rd from the top. The nozzles were Q-6. I believe that is the stock setup. I replaced them with the Q-8's and put the clip in the second from the top. Cleaned, adjusted per manual and reinstalled.

Now I turned my attention to the secondary because it seemed like it was not shifting right. RPM's ok but not shifting properly. I checked to make sure the proper OEM (green) spring was in there and the buttons were ok. It was 1-3 @ 40 degrees as per the manual. I read here that another option was a silver spring wrapped @ 40 degrees also. I cleaned her up, installed the silver spring and back together she went.

Primary is completley stock (as far as I can tell). Rollers good, 8CA01 weights with rivets in both holes. GPG spring and 3 shims. I cleaned everything and put it back together.

Now while I'm doing all this my buddy is installing my picks. Ya, I'm a ****y lucker...

I burned a tank of fuel and only adjusted the idle setting. Thats it. Didn't touch anything else after putting it all together. This thing is a rocket.

Engages a naaaaa 3,900 -4,000. I think a PPP spring is in order for the primary yet. nice straight line acceleration with full shift around 7,500. (a bit low?) perfect backshift on the tight corners and with the picks.... I'm outta there.... I walked away from a 700 wildcat with ease. Too bad the rear suspension sucks hind tit. It's not all that bad but would be nice to have a smoother ride.

Comments and suggestions welcome......

p3040016pp4.jpg


p2250002tv1.jpg
 
Last edited:
Fleet-
Those pipes call for a PPP primary spring with two engagement shims and a 17.2mm rivet on the inner hole and open for the outer hole, if that drops the engagement too low you can go with the 13.9mm rivet on the inner. Engagement should be right at 3900 rpms and full shift should be at 8300.

Check this post out,...

http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=19595

never heard of using a silver secondary, might try it as my backshift could use a bit of a massage. But everything else is great, acceleration is incredible and my gas mileage went UP!
 
Thanks for the link, that helix might make a big difference with the up shifiting and back shifting. Is that the setup you are using?

Also, saw that you are fed up with your rear skid, you may want to investigate putting a newer pro-action skid under there. I put a 2003 RX1 skid under my 95 and it's a new sled, much smoother ride compared the ole stock skid that was under it. Now, I still can't keep up with all the new stuff in the bumps, but it certainly made the bumps a lot more tolerable! It isn't that big of a job and there is a good write up on how to do it over on www.vmax4.com
 
no not really. the only thing in common is the mains, Q8 nozzles and the sec spring except I have mine at 1-3 40 degrees not 80. I'm using a stock helix

I noticed in the link you posted on one of the pages it said to run a Q8 in the #1 carb only...... Hmmm

I got my eye on a 02 viper skid.... just need to make up my mind on that or an AD boivin. I think the viper skid is going to be easier to install and setup.
 
At first they called for a Q-8 in only one cylinder, there was an update even after the pages within that link which said to use Q-8s in both, so don't worry about that, ur right and that's what I'm doing as well.

The viper skid will most likely be the easier install and be much cheaper as well. You can pick those skids up cheap! Good luck with it
 
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