mxz skid install

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pops

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has any one heard of this putting a mxz sc 10 rear suspension into a 97 sx 700 i want more travel not to concerned w/cornering thanks
 
I have been searching for days now.I am looking to putting in a SC10-III in my SRX.That makes two of us now.Shouldn't be hard,need a MXZ to measure off from to make sure you get the skid in right location.My bud has one for me to measure from.
 
yea i thought i read somwhere that it is an easy swap but then again aint they all yea right ! i have a 02 mxz 800 and i like the suspension on that sled so i guess i will have to pull the skid on my 800 and give it a try when i get the time well i have 8 months
 
Keep in touch with me on this,we'll figure it out somehow.My buddy(a mechanic) down the road from me has a 2003 MXZ 700 which I can go and sneak measurments off.I really liked the ride on that sled,it was smooth.Keep me posted as I will you....................................................Doug
 
i am not sure what to mesure front to rear arm distance ? i will keep in touch pm me
 
What you want to do is take the measurements off of the donor sled. What I had to do while installing my m-10 should apply to installing any skid in any sled.

You want to take a measurements from the donor sled from the centre of the drive shaft to the centre of each hole for you suspension arms. Then take a measurement (make sure it is square) from the top of the tunnel to the centre of the same holes. Then transfer these measurements over to you sled and Centre punch and drill and repeat for the other side.

All you really need is a donor sled to take measurements off. Hope I got everything but if not somebody else will chime in.

It shouldn't be too hard, just take your time and be accurate so as not to mess up the geometry of the skid.
 
changeup,I was talking to another member and he said don't just measure from the top of the tunnel.He said:"I lifted the rear of both sleds until the suspensions were totally extended and then I measured the height of the rear mounting bolts from the floor, luckily they were within 1/4" of each other. "This way the geometry will be very close.
 
Those specs are posted many times over on dootalk. Be sure to compare several posts as there are some posts over there that are incorrect. The SC10 and SC10-II share the same bolt pattern, but the SC10-III is slightly different. Be sure to get the right measurements. Also, I would not use a SC10-4 as it is designed for an entirely different style of chassis (Rev). The three points (drive axle, front mount, rear mount) create a triangle. If you have measurements for all three legs, and you are accurate, you should end up with the right geometry. The best way to prove this out is on a piece of paper with a compass. Draw out one of the legs to scale. This will plot 2 of the 3 points. Set the compass to the measurement (scaled off course) of the next leg and then draw an arc. Repeat for the other leg. The point that the 2 arcs cross is the 3rd point. Just like in geometry class.

Yes getting the desired ride height (and thus attitude or pitch forward) of the sled is very important. Remember that the drive axle is fixed, so dropping the skid pivots the sled around that point, which actually puts more pressure on the skis.
 
Another measurement that I took was the height of the drive axle from the floor. As Ding mentioned, you can get the correct geometry of the three points(axle, front mount, rear mount) fairly easy, Its getting the geometry to the front suspension that I was concerned with.
In my case, I got lucky and they were almost Identical, the rear mount and axle height of the Cat and my Viper , but that doesnt mean you cant make it work correctly if they are different. You just have to put a little more thought into it. Also , you have some adjustablity in the skids also, i.e. limiter staps and shock spring settings to get the correct ski pressure and still be using as much of the suspensions travel as possible.
 
yea I guess taking the measurement from the top of the tunnel could be the wrong thing to do. It's just one step I had to do while installing the M-10 if I remember right. The most important thing is to make sure that the holes are in relative positions to each other.
 
I too am looking to put the sc10 111 in my 2000 srx. I have the skid with only 800 miles on it and got it for $300. Havent been able to find much info to help out though. Would be nice to find someone that has done this swap to see what they did wrong or are happy with the way they did it.
 
change_up said:
yea I guess taking the measurement from the top of the tunnel could be the wrong thing to do. It's just one step I had to do while installing the M-10 if I remember right. The most important thing is to make sure that the holes are in relative positions to each other.
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When installing an M-10, Fast has already done the homework for you to get the correct geometry to the front suspension.So taking measurements from the top of the tunnel would work. What you wouldnt do is take the measurements that Fast gives for a Doo and use them in a Yamaha, even if it is the exact same M-10 skid. The center to center distance may be the same, but the measurement from the top of the tunnel would most likely vary depending on the sled it is going in.
 
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found a SC10 skid in our local buy and sell paper.Guy wants $274.00 and says in good shape.Have to call him and find out if it is a II or III version.
 
I was thinking to also install a big 8" rear wheel kit in the SC-10 skid along with oversized idlers.Also will look for ohlins shocks for the front end.All in good time.
 
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